Thanks
Rick
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 37 of 37 known posts recovered
Thanks
Rick
I have been flying Super Tigre engines since 1965 and have always loved their quality, if not their weight. I don't have enough time on my .51 to know how it will hold up (rings, etc.), but I liked it so much I decided to spend the extra 90 bucks and get a spare.
Ron King
Excellence is born of preparation, dedication, focus, and tenacity.
Compromise on any of these and you become average.
Does it really need to be reworked for stunt use, or is it suitable right out of the box?
I saw a advertisment in Stunt News, back when the magizine was black & white, for Tom Lay and his ST conversions. Well I sent him my ST for conversion. After the conversion was finished I installed her back in the nose of my Sig Magnum, boy what a difference. The 4-2-4 break was more pronounced, the needle valve was not as sensitive and the engine did not try to runaway at the end of the run.
I have since upgraded two more of my G-51 engines. It was well worth the money. Tom Lay is an expert when it comes to ST's
Mike Clark
Thanks
Rick
Steve PS: Tom was very insistant on using 25% all castor oil fuel.
Bill
I build more planes than I fly, collect more kits than I build. That about says it, right?
Steve WHY PLUG THE BOOST PORT? The engine runs just fine.
Scott(if it's not broke give it to Steve)Riese}>
Scott Riese
Steve Scott(double talking free flight guy, I'm not)Riese}>
Scott Riese
Scott: Brian Hadley seemed to think that I implied Tom Lay blocked the boost port. I have no reason to think he does, but haven't looked inside my T&L G.51, either. Not my job! You need to actually read the posts.
As for blocking the boost port, the OS .40LA gained bottom end and midrange torque when they deleted the boost port, much as Leonard does with the FP's and other engines. Why would you want to try a stupid looking Mac's Muffler? 1) Because you're curious. 2) Nobody has to give their approval; this IS America.
I didn't realize I needed your permission. It must not be in my copy of the rules. Excuse me!
Steve
Steve Time out OREGON!
I DID READ THE POSTS YOU DON'T NEED MY PREMISSION. As far as the MAC'S muffler I knew what I was doing.
My Statement is...If you read my post. Do you know something we don't know. Do you think it will work because WHY? What's the plus of blocking the boost. LOW end? Bigger prop? less fuel? user friendly?
OR is this something your just talking about doing later down the road? ANYWAY, how's the fishing, You comming down to the Stunt Clinic?
Scott(your excused)Riese
Scott Riese
Steve
Scott: I'm not dissatisfied with the ex-D.Dirt psuedo GMA reworked G.51 in the 62 oz. Mutant Magnum (Tom Dixon's Magnum Plus), but would like more torque. I like the airplane (would recommend it highly), but I always wish I could stick my 2Star .60bb in it. Maybe I could, maybe I should. But the Tom Lay G.51 will make a difference, I hope, and give me a stronger running "benchmark" G.51.
As I said, the .40LA's reportedly got better low/mid torque without the boostport, so I thought it might be worthwile trying a temporary block (a soft balsa plug should work, maybe with some silicon gasket stuff). I want to get a couple more Bowman rings, and fit one to the latest G.51. That partly just for the experience (haven't ever messed with ringed engines much, except Volvos). Also to give this engine the best possible chance. From what I've read about ST's ring fits, roundness, etc., it didn't sound like the Italians did a great job at this, and I doubt the Chinese will improve on that. Just a guess.
I'm not taking my T&L G.51 apart to see what Tom did, I'm not taking my SSW ASP .53 apart to see what Leonard did, nor either of the GMA engines I have. But I worked on model engines a lot in the '60's, and notice I didn't say "reworked". Fitting & setup counts for a lot, even if the engine is really stock or just slightly tweeked. I'm not serious about flying contests, but I am still curious about engines. I'm not convinced that the CL version of the G.51 is the right G.51 to try this with, or try with a Mac's Muffler, for that matter, but I'm not buying an R~C version to find out. OK?
Steve
PS: Fishing should be getting good real soon. When the water temp gets up to the upper 50's, I be goin'. C'mon up. I probably won't be going to the Fireball's Stunt Clinic. Probably will be all tuckered from fishin'. Wish the Clinic was on the Saturday.
Steve
Steve
OK
Scott Riese
Just an Old Advanced flyer.
Tony

Brian H. (not Brian E. or Brian G.
)
Just an Old Advanced flyer.
Rick
Scott (KISS) Riese
Scott Riese
I have 1/2 and 1/2 20% Sig fuel and to get my ST .51 to run well I need to add about 12 ounces of castor to the mix, then the engine smooths right out into a nice 4 stroke. If I don't add the castor the engine runs erratically.
Jim Pollock
1) The ST 51s, while heavier are also fitted with ball bearings in the lower end.
2) And as they are typically used in models designed around ST 60s, the weight is not of concern.
3) They generally sound pretty cool.
4) Tom Lay will work on 'em, knows his stuff.
5) They aren't blue.
As to lots of castor oil in the fuel, I didn't find that to be the case with either of my ST 51s, one of which Steve is still flying. Hmmm, that is misleading, as I never actually tested either motor with a butt load of castor in the fuel. In fact, during early testing I went from 10/11/11/68 to straight SIG 10% "Champion" fuel which is 10/10/10/70 and a lot less hassle.
Steve, have you done any testing. More to the point, has my reputation been sullied by your test results?
Oh, and I understood your posts perfectly. As always.
Dan
John Leidle
The only grief has been at least one broken NV from vibration (the 2Star .60bb also did that, with Nelsoni NVA's), and the orignal D.Dirt glowplug didn't run well, probably due entirely to the "Old Glowplug Syndrome", recently explained in another thread. Nice engine. I like 'um. I think it'd be great on a Humongus, Shark 45, Buc 746, or Time Machine 50.
Steve
Rick
John Leidle
Thanks Rick
If the rear flange of the drive washer rocks while turning then most likely the prop flange has the same problem. Bolt the engine in a test stand with a prop installed and measure one of the blade tips to a point on the stand, then turn the engine 180* and measure the other tip to the same point on the stand. Just a few thousandths at the drive washer will be easy to see at the tip. It could either be a bad drive washer or the tapered cone that slips on the crank under the washer. Either way I would send it back for another one.
Todd.
Tom Lay
I was going to give you a call for some ST info but the number I have for you is not current. How can I reach you?
Thanks
Rick Henry