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More Enya Problems

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kenwstr · Mar 18, 2004 04:18 PM

#0 source

Hi

Well after explaining there were bubbles forming in the oil collecting in the head gasket slot and this despite the compression being exceptionally good. I decided to take a look at the head and gasket. Boy was that a mistake.

This is an Enya 15-5 model # 3304.
It has no gaskets either under the cylinder sleave of under the head and this engine was bought new straight out of the box so I assume it's meant to be that way.

I just can't tighten down the head. All I can do is pinch the head bolts down by 1/8 turn. Any more than this causes the engine to really tighten up and I do mean tight, no posability of ever starting the motor. The really odd thing is that it gets tight at the lower end of the stroke but is fee at the top. If the head bolts are loose enough to flick the prop, then it stops either as the piston is comming down or is partly on it's way up on the next compression stroke. It just doesn't bounce freely like it used to.

What the heck is going on here, I never had an enging like this before?

Anyone have a URL or contact details for Enya Metal Products Co,Ltd.
so I can refere the problem to them?


Regards,
Ken

dirtydan · Mar 18, 2004 04:25 PM

#1 source
The really odd thing
>is that it gets tight at the lower end of the stroke but is
>fee at the top. If the head bolts are loose enough to flick
>the prop, then it stops either as the piston is comming down
>or is partly on it's way up on the next compression stroke.
>It just doesn't bounce freely like it used to.
>
>
>Regards,
>Ken

Ken,

Indications are that engine used to bounce, or flip over, freely.

You have since had it apart.

You put it back together.

It no longer exhibits stated behavior, in fact piston sticks in the most unusual of places in bore.

Sounds like operator error to me.

Dan

74seven7 · Mar 18, 2004 05:21 PM

#2 source
Ken,
As a smalltime collector of ENYAs,I myself have experienced the
problem you describe. I bought an ENYA 09 off eBay which had been
bench run,but at some stage(and by persons unknown)the head must have
been off,because the liner had been rotated about one quarter inch,so
that when you looked in the exhaust port,the rear of the liner exhaust slot was almost around to the piston baffle. After lifting
the head and correctly lining up the cylinder,I tightened the screws
thinking everything would now be OK. Wrong - the piston was now
"binding" or hitting a high spot in the cylinder. To cut a long story
short,I must have spent several hours trying to cure the problem
which wasn't there when I first got the engine. I tried every
combination of head screw tightening sequence,because that seemed to dictate where the piston would stick. Eventually,I got the thing put
together so the piston/cylinder fit was ALMOST perfect,concluding
that some sort of distortion was taking place,even when the head screws were only lightly tightened. That 09 has been consigned to the
"Parts Only" bin,and probably is where your 15 should be too! BOB.

Bob Allan

ELee · Mar 18, 2004 06:50 PM

#3 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-18-04 AT 06:52 PM (CDT)
 
I suspect your problem has nothing to do with the cylinder head. Please check the orientation of the con rod. One side of the hole for the crankpin is bevelled. It should be facing the crank. If it is not, it will cause the binding that you are experiencing.

My 15 IV did that until I changed that. I initially thought the crank shaft was bended.

kenwstr · Mar 18, 2004 07:01 PM

#5 source
>I suspect your problem has nothing to do with the cylinder
>head. Please check the orientation of the con rod. One
>side of the hole for the crankpin is bevelled. It should be
>facing the crank. If it is not, it will cause the binding
>that you are experiencing.
>
>My 15 IV did that until I changed that. I initially thought
>the crank shaft was bended.
>
>
Hi

I have not removed the piston or conrod, All I did was remove the head and replace it again. The sleave may have rotated very slightly but it can't be by much at all.

Regards,
Ken

sabre250 · Mar 19, 2004 04:12 AM

#7 source

Ken,
I'm not giving you the third degree, but earlier on you said the Enya had no gasket under the liner. How do you know if you didn't take the liner out?
If you did take the liner out, how did you get it out? Has it been inadvertantly distorted?
This style of engine must be re-assembled by inserting the liner into the case with the piston/ rod assembly in the liner.
The crankpin is then engaged in the rod and front housing is the last thing to go on.
It's too late now, but assuming you did have a faulty product, it should have been returned to the dealer when the fault was first revealed. Enyas have a very good reputation and I'm sure your problem would have been rectified immediately.
regards

David Owen

kenwstr · Mar 18, 2004 06:57 PM

#4 source
>Sounds like operator error to me.
>
>Dan

Hi Dan

OK so I may be doing something wrong, I can accept that but what exactly am I doing wong. I bought the engine brand new and was carefull to check the liner orientation is correct. Careful to hold the head firmly flat while taking up the head screws, not tightening any of them. Once all taken up, marked each bolt and nipped them up in opposite sets, noteing the degree of tightening on each is the same.

If I am doing something wrong, I'd sure like you tell me what it is so I can get this engine working properly again.

Regards,
Ken

dennis · Mar 18, 2004 07:41 PM

#6 source
by any act, error, or omission, I have, intentionally or
unintentionally, displayed any breedist, disciplinist, sexist, racist,
culturalist, nationalist, regionalist, localist, ageist, lookist, ableist,
sizeist, speciesist, intellectualist, socioeconomicist, ethnocentrist,
phallocentrist, heteropatriarchalist, or other violation of the rules of
political correctness, known or unknown, I am not sorry and I encourage you
to get over it.

I had an Enya a few years ago that the liner didn't sit square in the case. I needed to clean out the top of the crancase casting. I would lift the liner out and take a look. Just by rotating it you could have some crud dislodged underneath and it's not sitting square. It will always bind.Won't mean that much to do it either if it's basically a new motor and your fits arn't established.
Dennis

dirtydan · Mar 19, 2004 04:28 PM

#8 source
>Hi Dan

>OK so I may be doing something wrong, I can accept that but what exactly am I doing wong. I bought the engine brand new and was carefull to check the liner orientation is correct. Careful to hold the head firmly flat while taking up the head screws, not tightening any of them. Once all taken up, marked each bolt and nipped them up in opposite sets, noteing the degree of tightening on each is the same.

>If I am doing something wrong, I'd sure like you tell me what it is so I can get this engine working properly again.

Regards,
Ken


Ken,

This is merely the sort of inane response I give sometimes. I have no idea what is wrong.

Offsetting my first remarks, I will admit to recently having done two similarly ill-advised acts: 1) Ignoring PTG's advice, I completely disassembled my new square-head Magnum 36; 2) When back together, piston/cylinder "feel" was no longer up to specs.

And I never did get it perfect, although it's pretty close. Hoping to simply run it without further problems.

Dan

gcb · Mar 20, 2004 07:46 PM

#9 source
Ken,

As mentioned previously, if the problem appeared when you disassembled it (to whatever extent) you might want to completely remove the cylinder and clean all the surfaces. You may have something in there causing misalignment.
Check that there is not a burr or something in the lower part of the cylinder.
Since you have little running time on it you can align it correctly, even if it wasn't before.
Good luck with it.

George

kenwstr · Mar 21, 2004 03:50 AM

#10 source
Hi

Well I completely dismantled, deburred and cleaned the engine.
Assembled the piston, gudgen pin, conrod, linner cylinder and head.
That left the crankshaft and front of motor off to eliminate missalignment as an issue. What I found is that tightening the head causes the piston to bind. It is free below the ports but binds anywhere above the ports.

Another interesting thing is that with the engine assembled and the head just nipped up so the motor turns over freely, repeatedly turning the motor over eventually leads to it binding but turning it in reverse loosens it up again.

I have notices that all the machined edges are very crisp, maybe I should work a little 2000 paper over the edges in case there are some burrs I missed.

The other thing is that the ledge the linner sits on above the crank case is very narrow. I don't have a way to measure this but it really does not look substantial enough to me to support the linner properly. I'd guess it is about .2 or .3 mm, about 10 thou wide and not true to centre. I think the slightly bevelled edge of the sleave is not supported all the way around it's base and is distorting when the head is tightened.

I am considering as a last resort to glue the linner in with some kind of gasket cement and only tightening the head when that is set.

I suspect the original problem with bubbles forming under the head is related to the lack of gasket between the linner and crankcase. That could allow unburned fuel to be forced up between the linner and cylinder to collect between head and cylinder where the metoanol would boil off. That explains the oil collecting there, the bubbles and the good compression.

Regards,
Ken