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Dope alternative to sticking tissue down.

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 20 of 20 known posts recovered

GravityWell · Mar 27, 2004 03:39 PM

#0 source
Hi everyone. I live in a very small house now and do not have access to a garage anymore to do my dopeing, so I am looking for an alternative. Has anyone out there found something that is non-toxic, or smell to high heck, that can be used to stick tissue down. On my rubber powered aircraft I have used craft glue but I don't think that would be strong enough. I need something that would not be affected by an automotive clearcoat spray or Varathane spray. Any help would be appreciated.

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

F4FGuy · Mar 27, 2004 04:18 PM

#1 source
Ron B.
F4Fguy

Glenn:

I don't know what you're referring to as "craft glue"but thinned aliphatic wood glue works fine,especially if you cover wet.Thin about 10-20% with water,mix well,and paint it on the frame work.Wait a bit,'til it develops some tack,and lay on the silkspan or whatever.If needed you can brush more through the paper to be sure of a full bond.allow it to thoroughly dry,then trim(I use a fine emery nail board).After water shrink(or drying if you put it on wet)clear Krylon rattle can spray will do a good job of initial sealing(they have a new one out that's odorless,I suspect it's water base vinyl or urethane).

Ron B.

GLBahrman · Mar 27, 2004 04:52 PM

#2 source
Hi Glenn,
For years as a young man my Mom would not allow us (my brother and I) to use dope in the house because of the smell etc. I used ELMERS WHITE GLUE the water soluble one, I added water to thin it out. Then I would cut a piece of silkspan the size I wanted to cover a wing. I would take a wet sponge while holding the silkspan up on the refrigerator door and wipe the silkspan down until it was stuck to the door and totally wet. The reason for the refrigerator door is because the house we lived in had combination ironing board/breakfast table that folded out of the kitchen wall and it was our work bench. This was also an opportunity to remove any wrinkles from the silkspan. While the silkspan was stuck to the door I would then take the thinned glue and smear it around the perimiter of the wing and smooth it out evenly. When done I would remove the silkspan from the door and with one end in my mouth and the other end in my hands I would line it up where I wanted it and set it in place being careful to pull out and remove any wrinkles. After the silkspan was set in place I would dip my fingers in water and carefully run them around the perimeter to be sure the glue was soaking up thru the silkspan. I always installed the silkspan wet this way I didn't know any different and it still works great to this day. If you have a problem area you can add water to break the bond, lift the paper and reset it. With the paper wet and wiped down with a sponge the dampness of the paper will be uniform so it will dry evenly, this is important to prevent warps. Before it was dry I turned it over and started on the other side. Covering was always a pleasure, I loved it.

Greg L. Bahrman

william henri · Mar 28, 2004 06:25 PM

#7 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-28-04 AT 06:29 PM (CDT)
 
My goodness! A better explanation was never presented! I've been using silk & carpenters glue for covering, why, because it does not tear, and was I hesitant with silkspan because of my inexperience in the face of guys with years of experience, would not be taken seriously if I asked. Hence, most of my ships have pure silk covering and are sometimes unpainted to save on weight. Ugly, but skyworthy. And I have to be very careful with fuel. I have much more engine and construction of ship experience, than covering, which is an art in itself. Thanks a bunch. Always learning William

Swordsman18 · Mar 27, 2004 05:44 PM

#3 source
>Hi everyone. I live in a very small house now and do not
>have access to a garage anymore to do my dopeing, so I am
>looking for an alternative. Has anyone out there found
>something that is non-toxic, or smell to high heck, that can
>be used to stick tissue down. On my rubber powered aircraft
>I have used craft glue but I don't think that would be
>strong enough.

Well, if you mean glue stick for "craft glue", it works well for FF models covered with Japanese tissue. It might make a good additional weapon in your arsenal along with thinned white glue, which is also used by the FF crowd. Good for sticking down loose edges.

Andy

ty marcucci · Mar 28, 2004 08:53 AM

#4 source
Do what Ron, Greg and Andy said. I used to do the white glue thingy too. Just be careful to not use too much. And it will peel off the fingers better than Ambroid

Ty Marcucci

GravityWell · Mar 28, 2004 01:55 PM

#5 source
Thanks for the replies guys...appreciate it very much. I thought the glue would work, but wasn't sure. Don't think my wife would like me using the fridge to slobber glue on though.....I can see myself getting that .38 caliber vasectomy!

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

GLBahrman · Mar 28, 2004 04:00 PM

#6 source
Hi Glenn,
Not sure if your just kidding or you really didn't understand the post. The silkspan will stick to the door do to the moisture that's applied with the sponge. At no time is there glue on the door. Your wife will be happy because there will always be a clean spot on the door where you wipped the silkspan down....GRINS

Greg L. Bahrman

GravityWell · Mar 28, 2004 06:30 PM

#8 source
ohhhhhh....for some reason I thought you were applying the glue to the silk on the fridge! LOLOL OK....that I could probably get away with!

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

phantomflier · Mar 29, 2004 03:12 AM

#9 source
Have you thought about using the water based Minwax Polycrylic instead of dope. Really sticks the material to the wood, and has almost no odor. Also hardens the wood surfaces a lot which helps reduce dents and dings.

GravityWell · Mar 29, 2004 06:09 PM

#10 source
"Water based Minwax Polycrylic", can this be used just like dope? Put on a couple of coats, then put the silk or tissue on and polycrylic it down? If it does, it sounds like a very good answer. That would also be a fuel proofer as well, wouldn't it?

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

phantomflier · Mar 30, 2004 01:02 AM

#11 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-30-04 AT 01:04 AM (CDT)
 
Works just like dope, fills faster though. Sorry not fuel proof alcohol will remove it even after it is dry.

Forget to say it doesn't shrink like dope

GravityWell · Mar 30, 2004 01:33 AM

#12 source
Well its still sounds like a darned good substitute. I can always give it a couple of coats of crystal varathane to fuel proof. I really want to thank you guys for the great ideas. Really appreciate it.

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

DesignMan · Mar 30, 2004 04:20 PM

#13 source
Also, check out Model Aviation this month. Paul Bradley's column. There is a bit about mixing white or yellow aliphatic glue with rubbing alcohol. The solids glop up and are removed, but the remaining liquid is still a good adhesive for tissue! Also good info on printing on tissue!

Larry Renger
think S.M.A.L.L.

GravityWell · Mar 30, 2004 10:54 PM

#14 source
I am going to have to break down and buy a subsciption to the magazine. No one around here carries it. Oh well. At least this way I am assured of getting every months issue!

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]

DesignMan · Mar 31, 2004 11:46 AM

#15 source
Join the AMA and you get the subscription automatically. And insurance!

Larry Renger
think S.M.A.L.L.

Swordsman18 · Mar 31, 2004 03:31 PM

#16 source
>Join the AMA and you get the subscription automatically.
>And insurance!


In Canada???

Andy

Ron · Mar 31, 2004 05:11 PM

#17 source
>Also, check out Model Aviation this month. Paul Bradley's
>column. There is a bit about mixing white or yellow
>aliphatic glue with rubbing alcohol. The solids glop up and
>are removed, but the remaining liquid is still a good
>adhesive for tissue! Also good info on printing on tissue!

I presume that the alcohol doesn't attack the foam???

DesignMan · Mar 31, 2004 05:27 PM

#18 source
Right. No problem with alcohol and foam. In fact in the article, he is reporting on tissuing directly over foam for reinforcement.

Larry Renger
think S.M.A.L.L.

GravityWell · Mar 31, 2004 06:00 PM

#19 source
Not much chance of me joining that august association...I'm a canuck and can't justify that sort of cash layout for the magazine. Dang it! And what foam? I don't build using foam so it shouldn't be a worry. Some really great idea's here for dope alternatives. Thanks a bunch to everyone.

“I have never crashed, but I have proven the theory that gravity sucks!”
Glenn Reach
[email protected]