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Replacement Nobler ARF Tank

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inverted · Mar 29, 2004 07:32 PM

Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#0 source
Was checking out my new ARF Nobler tank from Tom Morris Building Supplies. Anyone who has used one of these, Do you use the tank the same as a wedge tank, by simply resting it on the motor mounts and brace? I was wondering if the height is ready to go. or need to shim to set height. I am figuring the vent goes to the top of the tank, and if so the the pick-up looks high from the inverted position. Thanks

Nikyvee · Mar 29, 2004 11:03 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#1 source
Hope someone answers you; I am interested in this info also. What else did you get to change your Nobler ARF? Or what do you plan to change? Mine has the original metal tank; must be one of the first batches...
Nick Vanmatre

inverted · Mar 30, 2004 08:39 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#2 source
What I replaced in my Nobler ARF. Not only the fuel tank. By the way I had the new plastic tank. I hear they may leak, and the original small tank does not hold enough fuel for the stunt pattern.
I also replaced the bell crank with a Tom Morris 4 inch set up. This includes leadouts. Replaced the flap to elevator pushrod with carbon and used clevices from Morris as well. I did use the provided bell crank to flap push rod, and provided elevator and flap horns. They seemed to be safe enough, but would not hurt if you changed them as well. Thanks for the reply.

EricV · Mar 30, 2004 08:53 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#3 source
I orderd a Morris tank just to see how he does it and because I never had anyone show me how to plumb a clunk. (read articles, saw picuters, but I'm a hands on kind of guy)

I have had no problems with my 4 ounce round in my ARF Nobler, but I did it different than Tom does it. He plumbs the uniflow as a flex tube tied to the pickup. I did a clunk pickup and a solid uniflow tube, and used the uniflow position to set the tank hight to the needle.

Now, slightly off topic: on my little OS26 Surpass on a ringmaster, I AM HAVING TROUBLE getting the little 2 ounce clunk tank work right. I couldn't even get the flex pickup to flex right, so I hard plumbed the whole thing.If I had room for a bigger tank, I'd use it, and plumb it with a clunk. I can get even runs upright and inverted, but if I stunt it aggressively, pull out hard, etc. the engine burps, goes dead rich and stays that way for a few laps and quits or leans back out and keeps going. I've tried running it uniflow or standard vent, and even the little crankcase tap for pressure. Better results here and there, but eventually still does the same thing.
Any thoughts?

Eric

Aeromaniacs · Mar 30, 2004 09:12 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tankedited#4 source
I have the same problem on my OS FS26 Surpass. A small clunk tank does not seem to operate because the tubing to the flex pickup is too stiff. Try to connect it so that the Clunk Pickup does not touch the back of the tank, this will give you the least amount ot resistant. Also try to position the pickup in the middle.

On my ARF Nobler, I also have the new Cluck type tank. The tank is very tall so you need to position the uniflow vent a little higher or in line with the needle valve. I ended up using muffler presure and standard cluck venting on my OS 35FP.

Crist Rigotti · Mar 30, 2004 09:57 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#5 source
Did I miss something? Where is the tank advertised? I didn't see it on his website. Anybody have a picture of it?

Thanks

Aeromaniacs · Mar 31, 2004 08:51 PM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#6 source
I too, am not sure what a Tom Morris tank is? I just assumed that "Inverted" was talking about the new clunk tank that is now included with the ARF Nobler.

MikeC · Apr 03, 2004 12:51 AM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#7 source
I purchased one of the original Top Flight Nobler kits.

My engine crutch was not made of completely square wood stock and the
crutch was tapered. I used a piece of 1/64 plywood and glued it
to the engine crutch for the tank mount. This makes for a better installation, stronger crutch and a stable tank platform, while not adding a lot of weight.

As for elevating the tank, I wouldn't suggest it, the 1/64 ply does not effect the tank height that much. What you need to worry about is the center line of the engine needle valve. The center line of the needle valve should be raised about 1/16 to 1/8 of a inch abouve the tank fuel pickup outlet.

When flying the airplane upright the engine will idle normally. When flying inverted the engine idle should be a little faster.

As for the tank, I used a Brodak, slim fuse uniflow tank, 4.5 ounces.
Some cutting was involved but well worth the effort.

I believe all of the ARF kits had some sort of engine pads included with them, I would suggest using them. If all else fails follow the instructions.


MikeC

MikeC · Apr 03, 2004 12:53 AM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#8 source
I just left Tom's site and I did not see this tank either.

MikeC

EricV · Apr 03, 2004 07:02 AM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#9 source
It is on the price list Tom mails out to PAMPA members... Tom lists 2 sizes for sale, the 4 Oz and 6 Oz, PART #'s TANK-4 & TANK-6 both the same price, $9.95, simple huh? Both are the same style tank, the round type. I ordered one, have not used it yet, but the plumbing job looks top notch, and is narrow enough to drop right in the ARF Nobler. I know, as I am already using a 4 Oz round that I made myself. It works perfectly, and I am running a Fox35.

MikeC · Apr 04, 2004 08:51 AM

RE: Replacement Nobler ARF Tank#10 source
I'm sorry guys but I stand corrected. I received some new Tom Morris lines on Saturday and low and behold in the box was a new price sheet. Guess what was on the sheet, Yep new Tom Morris plastic tanks.

O well, Whodathought.

Mike Clark