Replacement Nobler ARF Tank
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 11 of 11 known posts recovered
Nick Vanmatre
I also replaced the bell crank with a Tom Morris 4 inch set up. This includes leadouts. Replaced the flap to elevator pushrod with carbon and used clevices from Morris as well. I did use the provided bell crank to flap push rod, and provided elevator and flap horns. They seemed to be safe enough, but would not hurt if you changed them as well. Thanks for the reply.
I have had no problems with my 4 ounce round in my ARF Nobler, but I did it different than Tom does it. He plumbs the uniflow as a flex tube tied to the pickup. I did a clunk pickup and a solid uniflow tube, and used the uniflow position to set the tank hight to the needle.
Now, slightly off topic: on my little OS26 Surpass on a ringmaster, I AM HAVING TROUBLE getting the little 2 ounce clunk tank work right. I couldn't even get the flex pickup to flex right, so I hard plumbed the whole thing.If I had room for a bigger tank, I'd use it, and plumb it with a clunk. I can get even runs upright and inverted, but if I stunt it aggressively, pull out hard, etc. the engine burps, goes dead rich and stays that way for a few laps and quits or leans back out and keeps going. I've tried running it uniflow or standard vent, and even the little crankcase tap for pressure. Better results here and there, but eventually still does the same thing.
Any thoughts?
Eric
On my ARF Nobler, I also have the new Cluck type tank. The tank is very tall so you need to position the uniflow vent a little higher or in line with the needle valve. I ended up using muffler presure and standard cluck venting on my OS 35FP.
Thanks
My engine crutch was not made of completely square wood stock and the
crutch was tapered. I used a piece of 1/64 plywood and glued it
to the engine crutch for the tank mount. This makes for a better installation, stronger crutch and a stable tank platform, while not adding a lot of weight.
As for elevating the tank, I wouldn't suggest it, the 1/64 ply does not effect the tank height that much. What you need to worry about is the center line of the engine needle valve. The center line of the needle valve should be raised about 1/16 to 1/8 of a inch abouve the tank fuel pickup outlet.
When flying the airplane upright the engine will idle normally. When flying inverted the engine idle should be a little faster.
As for the tank, I used a Brodak, slim fuse uniflow tank, 4.5 ounces.
Some cutting was involved but well worth the effort.
I believe all of the ARF kits had some sort of engine pads included with them, I would suggest using them. If all else fails follow the instructions.
MikeC
MikeC
O well, Whodathought.
Mike Clark