I figure it is better safe to ask rather then assume.
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 17 of 17 known posts recovered
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.

George
Bill <><
Just an Old Advanced flyer.
(No idea about the oil contents though)
http://www.foxmanufacturing.com/store/shop.cfm?currpage=2&cat=Fuel
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
And in my book, 15's or less in displacement are "small".
.
Kiwi
**
You failed to state which engine you are talking about.
For the slant plug engine and others with the iron piston/sleeve the answer is absolutely yes, but a higher nitro would be better.
For the BB schneurle engines 22% oil would be good, for an ABC engine all synthethic will be OK but a blend with 5-50% castor will work well.
If you use all synthetic and don't fly the engine on a regular basis you will need to use a good after-run oil especially with a ball bearing engine. With all/high castor and plain bearings it is a good practice but not required
Any other sources for fuel other then Fox and Sig?
LHS is not a option for me. It is a R/C car shop. The guys know very little about planes and carry very little inventory for planes. C/L is almost null.
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
George
.
Kiwi
**
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
Powermaster fuel has (or had) a fuel with 28/29% castor (512-285-9595)
Ritch's Hobbies will blend to your specs, no minimum, (713-661-5458)
Avoid Red Max when a fuel mix needs to have REAL, decent castor. They use a totally inferior type and then claim otherwise. Their lies about castor have cost them the trust of a large part of the CL community. Powermaster *is* good stuff, so is Ritch's Brew. I don't know what arrangements either one has any more, if any, for saving the user from paying huge hazmat shipping fees/penalties.
.
Kiwi
**
This may or may not help you but the past thread enclosed has been helpfull for me.
Steve Helmick
Charter Member
2323 posts Jul-10-03, 11:54 AM (CDT)
2. "RE: fuel question"
In response to message #1
Here's a formula for deriving oil needed to boost fuel from % of oil present to % of oil wanted
Where:
C= % of oil current
X= oz. of oil added
Y= % of oil desired
all measurements in oz.
and figured for 1 gallon fuel (128 oz.)
128Y - 128C = X - XY
Solved for 20% oil to 28% oil
128(.28) - 128(.20) = X - .28X
35.84 - 25.6 = .72X
10.24 = .72X
14.222 = X
You need to add 14.222 oz. to move 20% oil to 28% oil.
Nitro reduction formula where
C = %Nitro present
X = still equals added oz. of oil
R = reduced Nitro %
R = 128 * C / 128 + X
with the 20% to 28% change and 10% nitro fuel
R = 128(.10) / (128 + 14.222)
R = 12.8 / 142.222
R = .090001sumptin or 9% nitro
These formulas work with any percentage of nitro or oil. As long as you know where you are, you can get where you want to go. I might add that if you are looking to boost nitro, just use the first formula for nitro instead of oil, be careful though, you will lower oil content when you add nitro. I snatched this off RCOnline CL forum several years ago. Steve
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Mike Gretz
unregistered user
Jul-10-03, 03:48 PM (CDT)
3. "RE: fuel question"
In response to message #2
Altering fuel is actually a bit tricky. Depends on just how accurate you want to be. Here's your example:
You're starting with "a gallon of fuel, 10% nitro, 20% castor oil".
Here's the breakdown of what's actually in that gallon:
Note: 1 gallon = 128 total fld.oz.
nitro - 12.8 fld.oz. - 10% (of 128 total oz.)
oil - 25.6 fld.oz. - 20% (of 128 total oz.)
methanol - 89.6 fld.oz. - 70% (of 128 total oz.)
If you add 14.222 fld.oz. of oil, as Steve says, you will then have a total of 142.222 fld.oz. of fuel (128 plus 14.222)
The breakdown will be:
nitro - 12.8 fld.oz. - 9%
oil - 39.822 fld.oz. - 28%
methanol - 89.6 fld.oz. - 63%
So now you have the 28% oil you want, but your nitro percentage is down to 9%.
The answer is to take your base gallon of fuel and add 14.9 oz. of oil AND add 1.7 oz. of nitro.
You will end up with 144.6 oz. of new fuel that will be:
nitro - 14.5 fld.oz. - 10%
oil - 40.5 fld.oz. - 28%
methanol - 89.6 fld.oz. - 62%
It ain't the bearings or the piston and sleeve that is the weak point on these but the con rod. Just like a stock OS Max .35S, it is the cast aluminum rod that you have to watch out for. These need all castor and more the better- otherwise you are asking for trouble.
GMA once told me that the first thing you do with one of these puppies (assuming you have the parts) is pull the rod and replace it with one of the forged .15XX issues- makes 'em darn near bulletproof.
Jake
"It'll probably feel real good again, once it quits hurting".
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
I approach these small Foxes as if they are 1/2As. They like nitro, where 15% is a nice amount. Also, you don't need the 29% oil like Fox recommends for the 35 Stunt. 25% is sufficient, and maybe even a bit less.
In chilly 40 to 50 degree weather, these engines want to be heated up some. So, use the nitro. In hot, 90 degree+ temps, you probably could run the 29% oil 5 % nitro mix with no difficulty.
Another point: an 8-4 seems to hit a sweet spot for stunt/sport aps with these engines. In fact, the instruction manual was very specific in this recommendation.
Currell