What knife are you using?

A while back there were some remarks made in a most uncomplimentary manner regarding X Acto knifes. If these are not what you are using then just what are you using?

Bill

While I was at Bill Little's this past weekend I used a scalpel (spelling?) with a blade I had never used before. The blade was a "Rib Back" blade and worked great.... as long as you cut with the SHARP side! Yep, I was thinking to myself that cutting out those ribs was going to take forever till Bill noticed I was using the back side of the blade. Amazing how much smoother the cut was when I used the other side. True story

Kirk

PS. I liked them so much I'm getting some for my shop.

>While I was at Bill Little's this past weekend I used a
>scalpel (spelling?) with a blade I had never used before.
>The blade was a "Rib Back" blade and worked great.... as
>long as you cut with the SHARP side! Yep, I was thinking to
>myself that cutting out those ribs was going to take forever
>till Bill noticed I was using the back side of the blade.
>Amazing how much smoother the cut was when I used the other
>side. True story
>
>
>Kirk
>
>PS. I liked them so much I'm getting some for my shop.

I took a pic of Kirk using the scapel upside down!! LOL!!!
It was still doing a pretty good job, too.

I have a bunch of knives, but I end up with the scapels most of the time. Only thing sharper around here is a Gillette double edge razor blade!

And Ty, I have only broken one blade, and that was wedging apart a wood joint, not cutting balsa. Mainly I use a #4 handle and the rib back #24 blades. Even cuts 1/32 ply with no problem!

Bill <><

I use Xacto and single edge razor blades.. Ther old #11 is hard to beat for general cutting, the long blade is great for carving, can't remember the number.. The razor blades are used for cutting monokote, carbon fiber matt and silkspan.

No. 11 and single edge razor mostly. Heck Bill, I had no problem hinge slotting my finger. Only took 5 or 6 stitches at the emergency hospital. They were real happy I was using a fresh No.11 they said I did a real clean job which would make it easier for them to repair.

Greg, I've never had a problem with any of my X acto's. I use #11 mostly but also use the razor saw here and there. I remember ad's in the old Model Builder mags for Uber Skivers. Supposedly in the "best of circles". I very rarely cut circles so never tried them. I did see them at the AMA show 2 years ago but didn't see them this year.

Bill

LAST EDITED ON Apr-06-04 AT 08:37 PM (CDT)
 
For long blades, I use those thing that are now consisdered as "Terrorist Weapons" from the Dollar store. There usually come several in a pack, and you can adjust how much of the blade to extend. Its great for carving large blocks.

I agree with Bill, get the standard Xacto with the No. 11 blade. I would just get No. 11 by the 100's and also the standard safety rezor by the 100's. Forget about purchasing those expensive Xacto sets with 20 different blades you never going to use.

Bob,
You are probably referring to the #26 as the long blade.

LAST EDITED ON Apr-06-04 AT 07:04 PM (CDT)
 
At least 1 of these. If I can't find what I need out of this batch, I check out in the woodshop. If no go there I make another one. I particularly like to use a swivel knife for cutting monocoat trimcoat. I only have two videos and it dosn't show them using one in either of them.

I use them sliding craft knife thingies - the ones with the break-off tips.

>At least 1 of these. If I can't find what I need out of
>this batch, I check out in the woodshop. If no go there I
>make another one. I particularly like to use a swivel knife
>for cutting monocoat trimcoat. I only have two videos and
>it dosn't show them using one in either of them.
>
>Tom

I bet you, that you cus WHEN you can't find a X-ACTO

Scott(I buy the PINK ones because I can find it during the mess)Riese

LAST EDITED ON Apr-07-04 AT 06:33 PM (CDT)
 
Actually the only time I cus is when I hit my thumb with a hammer or stub my little toe on a chair leg or dresser corner. Then I usually say something like, "My goodness Gee Wilikers that Smarts!"

Tom,
I assume you do some carving other than model airplanes. Also, it appears that you have a #5 X-Acto handle for each type blade.

I use an X-Acto #1 knife with #11 blade for most sheet balsa. The #2 knife holds my #26 blade, and the #5's hold most other X-Acto blades, gouges, routers, and razor saws.
For other carving, mostly Warren handles, blades, and gouges...well, plus a bunch of others.
Often I just reach in my pocket for my "whittler" which is usually just as sharp as an X-Acto.

George

LAST EDITED ON Apr-07-04 AT 06:34 PM (CDT)
 
As you may know I am a recent re-tread after thirty years away from the hobby. A lot of that time was spent making other wooden objects. I learned long ago that cutting or sawing is a lot easier than sanding. Less messy too. When this subject came up I was cleaning and sharpening some of my tools. I had a bad cold for the last couple of days and was watching the tube and honing some of the gouges. Not a lot of fun, but then neither is using a dull gouge.

Xacto handles with Excel blades. They are much sharper and last longer than Xacto. Uber Skivver too. Yes, scalpels are great with #24 blades, when you can get them. Saw before you cut, cut before you sand, sand last. Sand lots.

X-Acto was the blade of choice, until my nephew came over with TESTORS' Black blades. #11 same shape as X-Acto, but Carbon content makes and keeps it REAL SHARP!!!(most hobby shops)
Uber Skiver still my favorite, is NOT restricted to circles. Oh, Bill: Anita Northrup (Model Builder Magazine Bill Northrup's wife) assured me her brother will be back in production of Uber Skiver early this year, 2004. These are mfd. offshore, have resumed production. (Hooray!)

Try this site for blades:

http://www.havels.com/

I seem to remember that they take credit cards over the phone.

Ty,

Why not use Excel handles too? They are octagonal and don't roll off the building board and stab you in the foot like X-acto's do! Ouch!!

Ron B.
F4Fguy

I believe I was one of those commenting.In my case, the problem isn't the EXACTO as such,it's that it's used for too many purposes to which it's not suited.I'm referring to the ubiquitous #11 here,the rest are almost never used,let alone misused.The #11 is a good tool for rough cutting balsa up to 3/16"-1/4".For fine cuts,it's too thick and almost never sharp enough,even when new.As mentioned above,the TESTORS blades are far superior.Not only are they sharper,they're carbon steel and stay sharp longer.For fine cuts in balsa up to 3/32" I always use a broken double edged carbon steel razor blade.If you learn to use it,you can cut "to the line"and end up with a finished part requiring no further finish work.These blades are increasingly hard to find,in a pinch you can use a single edge blade.If you do,be prepared to change blades often,as these are stainless and don't hold an edge well.

But back to the #11.One thing it should NEVER be used for is carving anything with any dimension longer than half the length of the blade(admittedly an arbitrary dimension).It is simply not suited for carving.The edge is at an angle to the knife body,making it difficult to control,and the short blade causes the ferrule to interfere with the work on any but the shallowest of cuts.

The EXACTO "carving" blade is the right shape,but in this case,is too thin for its intended purpose,causing it to wander on heavy cuts.Also,it is nowhere near sharp enough.For carving I use either my trusty old Remington pocket knife,or a home made knife about 4-1/2" long made from a power hacksaw blade.Both have straight blades almost to the tip(the hacksaw one is straight all the way),and have stiff backs,tapered cross sections and narrow cutting edge angles.I resharpen all my blades,including the TESTORS #11s,until they will cut the hair on my arm without touching the blade to the skin.In my experience the EXACTOs cannot be sharpened to this degree,and even as sharp as they will get,won't keep an edge for any useable time.This is true of (almost) any stainless blade.Their toughness produces a wire edge which is very hard to get rid of,and if you can get rid of it,the edge tends to bend rather than "break back".A well sharpened carbon steel blade will only rarely need re-sharpening,only an occasional stropping.

For some really good info on sharpening,GOOGLE "Scary Sharp".

Oddly,the best knives I've found for roughing foam are the Ginsu knives given to me as a joke by a friend.

Remember:Saw what you can;then cut,carve,or plane;as a last resort,sand.

LAST EDITED ON Apr-07-04 AT 10:55 PM (CDT)
 
>Oddly,the best knives I've found for roughing foam are the
>Ginsu knives given to me as a joke by a friend.

I've heard Lee Liddle makes the cutouts in his foam wings using a steak knife as a saw. I've since been looking for something suitable to do this.

For rough-cutting foam (rounding off wingtips on combat planes, usually), I've been using the retractable crafty knives, with NEW blades. Maybe I should try ginsu knives. I wonder if those practice katanas on the Home Shopping Network are any good..

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/katanaslip.html

I've found that those electric powered carving knives work real well with foam. If you don't have one borrow one or pick one up at a thrift store.

>A while back there were some remarks made in a most
>uncomplimentary manner regarding X Acto knifes. If these are
>not what you are using then just what are you using?

I like the #1 handle just fine. The stainless steel X-acto blades are really not very good. I much prefer the Testors "Model Master" #11 blades. They're much sharper and stay sharp much longer.

I find it interesting that when I quoted "In the best of circles" that some people actually thought that I thought that was all Uber Skiver's were good for!

Bill