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Brodak Flite Streak

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 18 of 18 known posts recovered

Bazzer · Apr 07, 2004 05:23 PM

#0 source
I am going to start building my Brodak Flite Streak over the Easter holidays, does anyone have advise or modifications that are reccomended for the Flite Streak, power plant is going to be a OS 25 la, I have got to get a venturi sorted out for it as it is a brand new RC type engine.
I have seen mention that the ARF Chinese built Flite Streaks have a fabricated fuz rather than solid sheet, does anyone see merit in this?

Many Thanks Barrie

KnightFlite · Apr 07, 2004 05:47 PM

#1 source
Use epoxy to mount the tail feathers and the wing, and also on the ply doublers and maple mounts on the fuse. I use the 5 minute stuff, but then again Im kinda strange that way. Paul-

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 01:19 AM

#8 source
Yes I also used epoxy on the front end of my recently completed Baby Streak, so I will continue with that procedure.

Barrie

Aeromaniacs · Apr 07, 2004 08:23 PM

edited#2 source
One of our newbie built and Brodak Flite Streak with an OS25LA engine. I flew it a few time. Its flies much better than my ARF Flite Streak due to is more rigid construction on the fuselage and addtional weight. The Brodak version will probably come out to 30-33 oz. Use a 9 X 4 prop.

On my ARF, the fuselage is a little flemsy and the engine mount vibrate a little more. It causes the engine not to run as smoothly as it should. But, for $60 and 2 hours work, its a great value!

dirtydan · Apr 07, 2004 09:16 PM

#3 source
The nose of my first ARF Flite Streak was seriously tweaked late last year, the result of skipping it off hard ground inverted. As it was not completely broken off, dribbling thin CA in the cracks worked just fine and for many months.

Lately, however, while the nose still felt okay in the highly sophisticated hold-and-twist test, it had developed a strange vibration in the air.

While there are many ways to reinforce a model damaged in this manner, noting the ARFs are as much air as structure internally, I removed the outer perimeter of the fuselage--leaving doublers and triplers intact--down to motor mount sticks and back to about the high-point of the airfoil. Did this top and bottom of fuselage, of course.

From a recent RC show I have some CF tubes which are simply cut-offs and so really cheap at one buck for nice bundle. The .300-diameter pieces were glued in place with 5-minute epoxy, lots of micro-balloons added to the mix.

I suppose one could inlay replacement balsa strips, sand and refinish with MonoKote. I didn't, as I am in the process of creating a "Q-ship," and so actually like the grungy appearance this model is quickly becoming known for.

Dan

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 01:23 AM

#9 source
A stiff structure usually helps, when I was competitive in RC pylon we aimed for getting the airframe as stiff as possible. I am not going to fabricate the fuz after reading some of the other posts in this thread.

Thanks Barrie

JetJock · Apr 07, 2004 09:20 PM

#4 source
Instead of the 1/16" plywood, I cut 3/32" 4-ply doublers for the nose. Used 3/16" balsa for the stab/elevator instead of the warp-prone 1/8" kit wood. I also epoxied 1/8" I.D. brass tubing into the fuselage to use as a bushing for the landing gear wire. I trashed the three 1/16" center ribs, replacing them with 1/8" ribs. Added a basswood LE doubler in the center section.

I'd advise replacing the .027 leadouts with .032 leadouts. Adjustable leadout guides would be a plus, too.

Mine weighed in at 26 oz with a Fox 35, 3 ounce Brodak tank. For max manueverability, balance it at the spars (or just slightly in front of the spars), not at the CG shown on the plans, which will make it far too nose heavy.

shholt · Apr 07, 2004 09:32 PM

#5 source
When we were using Flite Streaks (the old original Top Flite version) for combat, we added a 1/4" triangle pieces under the stab on both sides of the fuselage to increase the glue area. We also cut a slot into the top of the fuselage for the vertical tail to improve it's attachment. We also shortened the nose and put the tank in the wing, but that was to accomodate the weight of a Fox Combat Special motor. Today, I would use long motor mounts that go back to the wing LE. For the LA25, 3 oz of fuel should be enough. For more capacity, put a plastic 4 oz tank on the inboard side of the fuselage.
Steve
The older I get, the better I used to fly!

mccoy40 · Apr 08, 2004 08:51 AM

edited#15 source
Ditto on the extra balsa under the stab and the grove in the top for the fin. I add a doubler to the botoom of the fin to give it more glue area - usually two strips of 1/16 by 1/4. A Nice Ply triangle at the leading edge and the fuse help stiffen the wing fuse joint.


I'm currently rebuild one right now and I've broken the fin three time already and that's just hangar rash.

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 01:25 AM

#10 source
All of your mods point towards a stiff strong structure being the way to go, whilst keeping weight in mind as well.

Thanks for the tips.

Barrie

DennisV · Apr 07, 2004 10:57 PM

#6 source
Barrie,

Attached is a picture of the BRODAK Flite Streak I built last year. It is totally stock with no modifications. It is a great kit and builds light. Mine weighs 23.2 ounces on a digital scale. I don't think you would gain much by trying to clone the ARF fuselage (i.e. make it hollow).

I use an OS .25FP with a stock OS needle valve and a .234" I.D. venturi I made (sized off of the "Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Chart" so generously provided by this forums host-Leonard Neumann). I use a Master Airscrew 9x4 nylon prop and it works fine.

The balance point on my plane is 2" behind the leading edge and it flies great for me with the OS running in a wet 2 stroke. Lap times are about 4.5 seconds. After practicing the pattern with the Flight Streak, flying the pattern with my Banshee seems to be in slow motion.

I'm sure you'll enjoy your new F-Streak.
DennisV

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 01:30 AM

#11 source
Dennis

It does not look like you are running a muffler is that right? I will definatly have to run a muffler.
I did not see the venturi chart in the main part of the web site, I will have to do a closer inspection.

Regards Barrie

jaco · Apr 08, 2004 03:52 AM

#13 source
>Dennis
>
>It does not look like you are running a muffler is that
>right? I will definatly have to run a muffler.
>I did not see the venturi chart in the main part of the web
>site, I will have to do a closer inspection.
>
>Regards Barrie

"Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Chart" so generously provided by this forums host-Leonard Neumann. Dennis V.

Hi Barrie,

I remember Leonard offering the chart awhile ago and requesting
interested parties to e-mail him for a copy.
Leonard's e-mail address is [email protected]

Paul Heimgaertner


p.s. baby Flite Streak looks nice.

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 07:26 AM

#14 source
Paul

I will contact Leonard for his chart.

Thanks for the kind words about my Baby Flite Streak, I may have to think up a different colour scheme for the full size streak.

Regards Barrie

DennisV · Apr 08, 2004 09:59 AM

#16 source
"It does not look like you are running a muffler is that right? I will definatly have to run a muffler. I did not see the venturi chart in the main part of the web site, I will have to do a closer inspection."

Barrie,
You've got sharp eyes. This OS .25FP was bought used on Ebay and didn't come with a muffler. Where I fly mufflers are not mandatory.
Leonard had previously (last summer?) offered to email the Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Size Chart to anyone requesting it. I believe someone has already posted a link in this post regarding it. I've used the chart when making venturi for several engines. It has saved me a lot of time experimenting.
DennisV

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 03:35 PM

#17 source
Dennis

Yesterday I picked up an OS 25 LA brand new never run, we would have to run some kind of muffler if the engine was capable of taking one which the 25 LA is, I am looking forward to sorting out the venturi's using the SSW data.

regards Barrie

phantomflier · Apr 08, 2004 12:38 AM

#7 source
Three changes I'd make(have made)

replace the stab and elevator with thicker wood, 3/16" has been mentioned I use 1/4" with 1/32ply reinforcing plates for elevator horn, seems to hunt less.

extend the maple motor mounts to the wing cutout. Can drill holes in them to remove weight if you feel it'll help.

If the LG wire is 3/32 as the topflite kit had replace with 1/8 and insert hardwood dowel or brass/copper tube all the way through the fuse.

Other changes for those of us who are a little obsessed.

1) adjustable leadouts and weight
2) Add tripler to inside of nose and glass
3) cut two slices from the wing to the back of the fuse and CA .07CF strips in each slice.
4) Add attachment points to each wing tip for skids.
5) Glass center sheeting of wing before covering.
6) Add Carbon Fiber tow to spars for 3 or 4 ribs.

Bazzer · Apr 08, 2004 01:33 AM

#12 source
Phantomflier

The mods you suggest are the most comprehensive, I think the tail feather and adjustable lead outs are on the list, maybe some of the stuff in the fuz/wing centre section area.

Thanks Barrie