I have seen mention that the ARF Chinese built Flite Streaks have a fabricated fuz rather than solid sheet, does anyone see merit in this?
Many Thanks Barrie
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Many Thanks Barrie
Paul-Barrie
On my ARF, the fuselage is a little flemsy and the engine mount vibrate a little more. It causes the engine not to run as smoothly as it should. But, for $60 and 2 hours work, its a great value!
Lately, however, while the nose still felt okay in the highly sophisticated hold-and-twist test, it had developed a strange vibration in the air.
While there are many ways to reinforce a model damaged in this manner, noting the ARFs are as much air as structure internally, I removed the outer perimeter of the fuselage--leaving doublers and triplers intact--down to motor mount sticks and back to about the high-point of the airfoil. Did this top and bottom of fuselage, of course.
From a recent RC show I have some CF tubes which are simply cut-offs and so really cheap at one buck for nice bundle. The .300-diameter pieces were glued in place with 5-minute epoxy, lots of micro-balloons added to the mix.
I suppose one could inlay replacement balsa strips, sand and refinish with MonoKote. I didn't, as I am in the process of creating a "Q-ship," and so actually like the grungy appearance this model is quickly becoming known for.
Dan
Thanks Barrie
I'd advise replacing the .027 leadouts with .032 leadouts. Adjustable leadout guides would be a plus, too.
Mine weighed in at 26 oz with a Fox 35, 3 ounce Brodak tank. For max manueverability, balance it at the spars (or just slightly in front of the spars), not at the CG shown on the plans, which will make it far too nose heavy.
I'm currently rebuild one right now and I've broken the fin three time already and that's just hangar rash.
Thanks for the tips.
Barrie
Attached is a picture of the BRODAK Flite Streak I built last year. It is totally stock with no modifications. It is a great kit and builds light. Mine weighs 23.2 ounces on a digital scale. I don't think you would gain much by trying to clone the ARF fuselage (i.e. make it hollow).
I use an OS .25FP with a stock OS needle valve and a .234" I.D. venturi I made (sized off of the "Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Chart" so generously provided by this forums host-Leonard Neumann). I use a Master Airscrew 9x4 nylon prop and it works fine.
The balance point on my plane is 2" behind the leading edge and it flies great for me with the OS running in a wet 2 stroke. Lap times are about 4.5 seconds. After practicing the pattern with the Flight Streak, flying the pattern with my Banshee seems to be in slow motion.
I'm sure you'll enjoy your new F-Streak.
DennisV
It does not look like you are running a muffler is that right? I will definatly have to run a muffler.
I did not see the venturi chart in the main part of the web site, I will have to do a closer inspection.
Regards Barrie
"Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Chart" so generously provided by this forums host-Leonard Neumann. Dennis V.
Hi Barrie,
I remember Leonard offering the chart awhile ago and requesting
interested parties to e-mail him for a copy.
Leonard's e-mail address is [email protected]
Paul Heimgaertner
p.s. baby Flite Streak looks nice.
I will contact Leonard for his chart.
Thanks for the kind words about my Baby Flite Streak, I may have to think up a different colour scheme for the full size streak.
Regards Barrie
Barrie,
You've got sharp eyes. This OS .25FP was bought used on Ebay and didn't come with a muffler. Where I fly mufflers are not mandatory.
Leonard had previously (last summer?) offered to email the Stuka Stunt Works Venturi Size Chart to anyone requesting it. I believe someone has already posted a link in this post regarding it. I've used the chart when making venturi for several engines. It has saved me a lot of time experimenting.
DennisV
Yesterday I picked up an OS 25 LA brand new never run, we would have to run some kind of muffler if the engine was capable of taking one which the 25 LA is, I am looking forward to sorting out the venturi's using the SSW data.
regards Barrie
replace the stab and elevator with thicker wood, 3/16" has been mentioned I use 1/4" with 1/32ply reinforcing plates for elevator horn, seems to hunt less.
extend the maple motor mounts to the wing cutout. Can drill holes in them to remove weight if you feel it'll help.
If the LG wire is 3/32 as the topflite kit had replace with 1/8 and insert hardwood dowel or brass/copper tube all the way through the fuse.
Other changes for those of us who are a little obsessed.
1) adjustable leadouts and weight
2) Add tripler to inside of nose and glass
3) cut two slices from the wing to the back of the fuse and CA .07CF strips in each slice.
4) Add attachment points to each wing tip for skids.
5) Glass center sheeting of wing before covering.
6) Add Carbon Fiber tow to spars for 3 or 4 ribs.