About tank making

I have made my own customized tanks for stunt for a long time now to fit special needs. Until now I have used the tin sheets available in the hobby shops, or when I have an empty gallon container I use that tin. While looking through some of my 50s model mags, it said to use flashing to make tanks. I checked at my local Ace hardware store and bought a piece of metal to last my lifetime for a buck and a half.
So what's the question? Is there any secret, unknown reason that model fuel with nitro would damage or corrode galvanized metal? That's my question and with the wealth of experience on this board I hope to get an answer. I appreciate it.

Not that I know of but you may find the galvanized metal a real pain to solder. I would stay with the K&S tin plate from the hobby shops. I have been making my own tanks since 1947. Used about any tin can stock I could find. Particularly liked tomato cans as they didn't laquer the inside of them. Today they corrigate these plus they are thicker than K&S stock.

Hi, Shel- I got a question for your question, uhh what kind of solder, and soldering iron, and or gun do you use to fabricate your tanks! I have been wanting to know this for years, and find this the perfect opportune to ask. THANKS---Paul

My soldering relates to my electronics days. I use a good quality soldering iron, not gun, rated at more than 100 watts. The "secret" is a hot iron, good rosin flux, heat to where flux is steaming away, then apply solder to metal (not iron) and when it flows, follow tank seam with iron and solder. Worst problem is a cold solder joint.

This is my way, and I am sure others can tell you their way, and as I tell my students, try the different ways and when you find the one you like, that becomes your way.

I have made a series of molds out of one inch oak with different widths to fit, length is not important. I bend the tin around the mold, cut the end at about 1/8th inch and solder. If you need further information, I'll email you personally.

Thanks again Shel, I think I will try a better Iron and go from there. Paul

>Hi, Shel- I got a question for your question, uhh what kind
>of solder, and soldering iron, and or gun do you use to
>fabricate your tanks! I have been wanting to know this for
>years, and find this the perfect opportune to ask.
>THANKS---Paul

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/7833.html

Thanks brett, I think I get it now!! A high watt unit is the way to go. Thanks-- paul

I've never tried it, but has anyone ever tried the "lumiweld" method while using aluminum stock for the tank material? I have seen demonstrations where even very thin beer can metal can be "lumiwelded". Surely some of you soldering pros know of the process? A Budwieser beer can, or Miller-Lite, or even a Coca Cola / Pepsi can made into a tank, but retaining the can's art work might be interesting?

Also I notice brass is not mentioned as a fuel tank material ..... is brass a no-no and if so, why? I use to buy small brass tanks for my 1/2A models many, many moons ago, and doesn't ACME currently produce and sell brass tanks?

I have been using acme tanks for years, and my main complaint is that the inlet tube solder joints are always rattling loose. This seems to happen most often on my flitestreak with a 35x. Anyhow thats why i want to get a good iron or gun and learn how to solder. I havent encounterd any corrosion problems on any of mine YET. Knock on wood I guess!! Paul

>I've never tried it, but has anyone ever tried the
>"lumiweld" method while using aluminum stock for the tank
>material? I have seen demonstrations where even very thin
>beer can metal can be "lumiwelded". Surely some of you
>soldering pros know of the process?

IYes - I mentioned that in the other thread. It's a eutectic welding rod.

It works, but it's really not worth the effort or microscopic weight savings. In fact, it doesn't really work like solder in that it tends to form thick deposits instead of flowing out due to capillary action. If you try to get it hot enough to flow, the aluminum melts. If you aren't very careful, it will wind up heavier because the rod material is pretty heavy, and a thick bead of it weights far more than an equivalent lead/tin solder joint.

Graphite tanks are a lot more practical and easier to make. I'm not really all that impressed with their longevity, however. Several of David Fitzgeralds seemed to begin decaying and creating self-generated particles after a few years.