model stand for painting

A while back someone posted a pic of a model that was mounted it seemed like by the bearers that could be turned around it looked somewhat like an auto engine stand, does anyone know of a set of drawings to build such a stand or of a commercially built stand cos it seemed to me the way to go as U dont touch the model until all colors and clearcoat are sprayed on.I would guess you just spun it around using the leadouts.

..... Dont let them grind you in keep on flying .....

Byron Barker, of CF Slattery, has offered a wonderful paint stand for a long time, and everyone that has tried it raves about it. Contact him at:
[email protected]

Or better yet, call him.

See Ya

I have built such stands in the past just used 2x2 timber, I used dummy engines to mount the fuz onto the stand.
One of the Samurai Pylon Racing team had a motorised stand where after spraying you could gently rotate the model (usefull if a run is developing)

LAST EDITED ON Apr-10-04 AT 07:39 AM (CDT)
 
Here's my paint stand:

A 1/2" dowel fits nicely into a 3/4" piece of electrical conduit. Conduit clamps for fixing the conduit onto a pieice of board work well for mounting the conduit. I personally clamp this board to my ladder. The 1/2" dowel provides enough support to clear the ladder and get to the front of the plane. Also, this method allows the plane to be rotated as no clamping is required between the conduit and the 1/2" dowel.

I slot the end of the 1/2" dowel to accept a piece of 1/8" ply that has been cut and drilled to the mounting pattern of the engine with an toungue to fit into the slot in the dowel. I have some 4-40 screws and blind nuts to secure the dowel and plywood together. The engine's 4-40 mounting screws go into the mounting holes for the engine to secure the dowel to the plane. Note, different screws may need to be used as the 1/8 ply is thinner then the engines mounting lugs, or add some additional washers.

I've not had a problem with the strength of this with planes up to 50 oz. But the dowel does start to flex a little when it's out about 2 feet. So, heavier planes may need a more professional approach!

Also, an alternative to the ladder is to build a stand out of PVC pipe and pipe joints.

LAST EDITED ON Apr-10-04 AT 07:52 AM (CDT)
 
I use the same kind of attachment to the airplane, 1/8" plate on a half inch or larger dowel. For the base though I have a piece of inch and a half pvc pipe with a Tee glued on the top. The other side is mounted in a 5 gallon bucket of concrete. Just get a bucket and lid from Home depot, cut a whole in the lid for the pipe, mix up a bag of quickcrete, put the lid on the bucket and work the pipe in till it gets to the bottom. You can use adapters to step down between large handles and smaller half inch handles, but I usually just find a chunk of wood that fits and stick it between the handle and the side of the tee to hold the plane in position.

I usually leave the base outside for paintin in the breeze, and move it into the garage when the wifes car isn't there.

Haven't had it blow away yet!

You can see it a bit in the final stages of my mustang build at www.northlandflyer.com/Brodakp51

Awww heck, here's the picture I found it for ya
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http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/8672.html
I got mine from Scott Dinger
[email protected]

Byron Barker makes a great paint stand. Here is mine holding my latest. Just finished removing the paint stencil.

LAST EDITED ON Apr-11-04 AT 11:31 PM (CDT)
 
Patrick,
Nice looking plane, what say we cancel order on OS 35 and put funds towards this red and white beauty.

EDIT: Just Kidding....still a nice plane, it'll do ya proud.

Hey Greg,

It takes me to long to build my stunters to sell them off. Your probably not serious but,
If you really wanted someone to build for you I would recommend Dale Barry.

I've made my stand from surplus wood bars. Helps also tremendously while building.

LAST EDITED ON Apr-11-04 AT 04:28 PM (CDT)
 
I made one from one inch water pipe I got at Lowes. They come in 3 foot sections, pre-threaded, used a four way connector and made a base, one pipe 18" long in the "north" connection, one each at 3 feet in the "east" and "west" connection and a 4 inch pipe in the "south " connection. To this pipe I installed a "tee" with one hole facing up and in the south hole I added a 2 foot section. In the up hole I placed a 1/2 inch pipe, 36" long, and used an elbow at its end and to that a 12" pipe. I use a steel rod welded to a small plate with holes in it for the motor mounts. The rod slides into the short pipe and I have a 1/4-20 bolt that holds the rod in position. On each end I placed a cap so the fixture would not rock. I have used it for two years and six planes so far. I have a ARF Nobler resting on it onow drying from primer coats. Very cheap and it took me about 45 minutes to make it.

The base of my stand is like William Crane's (thank you, William), but I made the upright and pivot from ABS drain pipe. I routed channels in the end plates (1/2 inch ply) to fit the bosses of the wye and ran a carriage bolt through; rotation is set with a wing nut.
The stand works well. It cost less than ten bucks and only took an hour or so to construct. The upright could stand to be stiffer (sorry about the pun); larger diameter pipe would help fix that. Rotation about the Z-axis would be nice for some situations too. Its biggest asset, stability, is also its biggest liability- it's very heavy and not fun to move around.
Derek Moran