ENYA 60 Stunt

Recently got 2 of these engines NIB that were factory set up for U/C stunt or at least thats what the box says. Anybody used these? They are model #7032. Also got a couple of old 63's and 1 60 that look just the same. I believe these are old Typhoon engines. Are these any good for Old Timer Stunt?

Bill

I have run some #7032 Enya 60 stunt engines. They have a 2-4 break but the break is extremely harsh, lots of rpm difference. I tried to reduce the blowdown to soften the break but I screwed one engine up. Haven't tried anymore yet. I would like to here from any of you that had success, and how you did it.

>I have run some #7032 Enya 60 stunt engines. They have a
>2-4 break but the break is extremely harsh, lots of rpm
>difference. I tried to reduce the blowdown to soften the
>break but I screwed one engine up. Haven't tried anymore
>yet. I would like to here from any of you that had success,
>and how you did it.

I have an Enya 7033 that is NIB and I've never heard of anyone using this motor. It is a C/L version direct from Enya. Dennis

>I have run some #7032 Enya 60 stunt engines. They have a
>2-4 break but the break is extremely harsh, lots of rpm
>difference. I tried to reduce the blowdown to soften the
>break but I screwed one engine up. Haven't tried anymore
>yet. I would like to here from any of you that had success,
>and how you did it.

Messing with porting is risky business. Prepare to ruin a couple of sleeves before you get it right (IF you get it right). If you have the break you want but find that it is too harsh, the simple solution is to lower the compression by adding head shims. (Or a head shim.) Basically this just reduces the 2-cycle power, but that is what you want. You may also wish to reduce the nitro content if you are using a higher nitro fuel. A lot of people don't realize it, but the use of 10% or 15% nitro will tend to increase the rpm difference in the break.

P. S. I have never used one of these engines and don't ask me where to get the head shims. Sometimes shims from another engine will work (check the bore of the engine). Otherwise you may have to make your own.

Good advise Leonard. Before I ruin another sleeve, I'll try some head shims and low nitro. The bore of an Enya is the same as an ST, Webra, OS, etc. So head shims won't be a problem. And there is always beer cans.

It is interesting to me the very few responces to this question. Or maybe this answers the question direct and to the point? Apparently this engine have not gotten wide acceptence or usage in the stunt world? Anyone know why not?

Bill

What does it weigh?

They are about 14 OZ for the #7032, maybe another 3/4 oz for the #7033. But I cut metal off the outside and got it down to ST weight.
But the real reason no one uses them is that nobody wearing white pants has ever used them.

Not exactly what I would call a valid reason not to use them but I understand your implication. To bad, seems like a pretty well made engine like all the other ENYA'S I own. When and if I ever use mine I will buy white pants for the occasion........

Bill

LAST EDITED ON Apr-17-04 AT 08:45 AM (CDT)
 
I dont know if the Enya model number qouted is what I ran for a few years (around 1988)as I no longer have the motor. I suspect it is the same and if so I got the engine to give an excellent stunt run using the following setup:
.295" venturi, A drilled and tapped (6ba)exhaust stack for a tongue muffler, 20% castor 7.5% nitro, Zinger 13x6 prop and NB! an Enya No. 3 plug.
Run it almost flat out on a 2 STROKE (not a 2/4 break)
I found the Enya 3 plug to be essential to get up to correct running temperature from the start and it would stay there. Run a colder plug incl Fox idle bar (which was standard for STs then) and it would run erratically and speed up through the pattern badly.
I used to change the nitro around a bit for differnt weather conditions but I don't think it made a lot of difference.
Thinking back, the run was a lot better than a lot of engines I've run since as it didn't want to wind up in the wind.
If you can put a picture of the engine on this thread I can tell you if we arre talking about the same engine.
It was a darn good reliable engine.

I got one at a flea market in good shape(mainly as a spare for an Aeromaster Too, antique RC bipe).

Anyway, the whole engine(7032) weighs 385 gr.(13.9 oz.) with the RC carb and 352 gr(12.4 oz) without. With a CL venturi it should come out around 12.8 oz. RTF. The weight difference with an ST 60 is hardly worth bothering about.

It does take some messing around to fit a muffler, plug up the exhaust damper holes etc.

Phil, these 2 engines that I got have no dampner holes in the exhaust stack. They were intended for U/C from the start. Could be a very good but overlooked engine. Looking for a pair of white pants before I start one of them.

Bill

Bill,
Come to think of it it may have been a Zinger 13x5 (rather than x6)that I was running - it's a while ago now. Anyway the engine run was unusual for the time (slightly rich 2 stroke) but has become a fairly popular way of running these days. It truly was an excellent setup, very long lasting and no ring problems.
Tim