Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

Brodak Nobler Flap

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 14 of 14 known posts recovered

cyclone · Apr 22, 2004 07:04 PM

#0 source
Hi Guys; I have been looking over the plans to my Brodak Nobler, and I noticed that the left flap is larger than the right flap. I know that most people now believe that the outboard flap should be the larger one so as to carry more tip weight. Should I build it as is or reverse the flaps? If I do this will it still be legal for old time and classic? Is it going to make all that much differance? Are you out there Ted? Brett? Thanks Guys

Jim Kraft

N42222 · Apr 23, 2004 03:59 PM

#1 source
Hi, Jim. It's going to take days to sort through all the replies to your question. I think most folks are building them like the plans show. They flew pretty well for George, after all. But many of them have a clear tab added- it doesn't show up badly a'tall. If you put one of these clear tabs on your plane, the tendency will be to think that you are one of the "big boys". Of course, you are one of them so the question is do you want to be found out? When folks see you flying will they think it is just luck or will they know it is a famous flyer from a few years back? I leave the tab off mine, thinking I'll do better if it looks like I lucked out. And if I fly crummily, they can see I don't have a tab on my plane. Tabs aren't used to fix mistakes that we build into the plane, they are used to correct the designer's mistakes. Why, I've even seen movable tabs, but they weren't clear- easily seen. Hope this helps,

Dale Gleason

Larry Cunningham · Apr 23, 2004 04:18 PM

#2 source
Shucks! I thought there was some scandal going on about the Brodak Nobler..

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"Golf is a good walk spoiled." -Mark Twain

DesignMan · Apr 23, 2004 04:24 PM

#3 source
On my NoblARF I cut the inboard flap off just at the end of the outer hinge, and made that an adjustable tab. The moveable portion of the inboard flap is smaller and shorter than the outboard, and I have seen no hingeing in hard corners. A very simple modification.

Oh, and I used 3 pieces of heavy copper electrical wire (the core only) as pins to hold the tab. Easily adjustable by bending, but solid enough to stay where it is put.

Larry Renger
think S.M.A.L.L.

cyclone · Apr 23, 2004 06:35 PM

#4 source
Hey Dale; I always thought if I hung around you, Marvin Denny, Jim Lee, and a few other (Big Name Flyers) I would soon become one. Now you are telling me all I need to do is put a tab on my flap? Oh well, I kind of like hangin out with you guys anyway. Somebody needs to keep you Big Boys on your toes.

Jim Kraft

Ted Fancher · Apr 23, 2004 07:22 PM

#5 source
>Hi Guys; I have been looking over the plans to my Brodak
>Nobler, and I noticed that the left flap is larger than the
>right flap. I know that most people now believe that the
>outboard flap should be the larger one so as to carry more
>tip weight. Should I build it as is or reverse the flaps?
>If I do this will it still be legal for old time and
>classic? Is it going to make all that much differance? Are
>you out there Ted? Brett? Thanks Guys

Hi Jim,

I built my late lamented Brodak Nobler without a tab. However, at the one contest it survived long enough to enter, last years VSC, it grew one during the trimming out process (it wasn't flown until the day before the contest).

In my opinion stunters with this much assymetry are almost destined to need some sort of mechanism to avoid the roll from unequal lift inboard and outboard. The ships of that era were cleverly designed with longer inboard wings (and flaps)which was a good idea -- they just went a little too far.

It is my feeling that the best way to trim one out is to use a fixed tab or "wart" as I termed it years ago. There is nothing in the rules that says you can't trim the airplane to fly as well as you can and, if it rolls in corners, you've got to trim it out.

Making the outboard flap bigger might get some nitpicker's noses out of joint regarding fidelity points as would the best fix, making the difference in span only about 3/4" or so. Just remember, unlike OTS which throws you out for deviations, the classic rules allow you to vary the airplanes within reason and you only get zapped on fidelity points (seldom used, I know, but they're in the rules).

Ted

Brett Buck · Apr 23, 2004 07:39 PM

#6 source
>Hi Guys; I have been looking over the plans to my Brodak
>Nobler, and I noticed that the left flap is larger than the
>right flap. I know that most people now believe that the
>outboard flap should be the larger one so as to carry more
>tip weight. Should I build it as is or reverse the flaps?
>If I do this will it still be legal for old time and
>classic? Is it going to make all that much differance? Are
>you out there Ted? Brett? Thanks Guys


Don't reverse the flaps - as Ted said, add a wart (in this case, a very large wart!). While you are at it, it might be worthwhile to include either an adjustable rudder (to be turned significantly to the left to correct the excess fin/rudder offset and airfoil) or just make one that's both glued on straight and is airfoiled on both sides.

OTS legality is somewhat in the eye of the beholder (just like everything else in stunt). But you generally are OK with "trim" adjustments, and a wart and adjustable rudder is a trim adjustment. Dissenting opinions to be supplied shortly...

Classic legality - once again with feeling - there is no provision for disqualifying any airplane for any reason, at least in PAMPA rules. You might take a hit on fidelity points, if they are used. Most of the time, they are not used, so no hit possible. Maybe I'll enter VSC next year with the Infinity, er, Nobler - but Billy would probably still beat me!

Brett

cyclone · Apr 23, 2004 10:24 PM

#7 source
Thank you guys very much. I will build it per plan, and add a "wart" to trim it out.

Jim Kraft

LNeumann · Apr 23, 2004 11:06 PM

#8 source
>Thank you guys very much. I will build it per plan, and add
>a "wart" to trim it out.

I got a better idea: Since you are left with the dilemma of knowing which is the right way to build, I say build it right like George did with the inboard (right for him) wing longer than the left. Then bring the leadouts out the left wing because you fly the right way. The plane will be right because you left the left wing right where George put it and the right wing will be left just as per plan which is right as well. Now the outboard flap will be left larger (which is right for trimming purposes) and the left flap will be smaller which is also right.

Am I right in my thinking or is there something I left out?

Leonard Neumann

cwmcmillin · Apr 23, 2004 11:44 PM

#9 source
Leonard,
Now that is the kind of logic that I used to hear at Bobe's Pizzeria!
Chris...

cyclone · Apr 24, 2004 07:50 AM

#10 source
Leonard; I believe I understand what I thought you said.

Jim Kraft

Brett Buck · Apr 24, 2004 09:43 AM

#11 source

>Am I right in my thinking or is there something I left out?


This is a great idea, as long as you can run more than 60 mph.

Brett

LNeumann · Apr 24, 2004 12:44 PM

#12 source
>
>>Am I right in my thinking or is there something I left out?
>
>
> This is a great idea, as long as you can run more than 60
>mph.
>
> Brett

Or carry a lot of tip weight!

However, dumb as it may seem, with a few flaws aside, there is merit to it as well. As Ted once rightly pointed out on another thread, the concept of a longer inboard panel is really another effort at putting the weight on the outboard side. The wing, itself, doesn't know where inboard and outboard is. It is just flying along and constantly turning left. If we had a simple thin profile twin boom plane with the booms at the extreme tips extending back to hold the tail plane, how would you know if you had assymetry or not? The big kicker on a normal layout is that the fuselage blocks out a bit of the lifting portion of the wing (and flap), and then we usually taper the flaps, if not the wing itself. Somehow we then choose to locate the tail in what we expect will be the center of lift, which usually isn't.

Now you have been a strong proponent (well, not strong enough to build your next plane this way--yet) of adding assymetry to the tail. In effect, you are suggesting shifting the tail to the left a bit, which could have the same effect as adding area to the outboard flap. Now, in the tongue-in-cheek suggestion that I just proposed, we would have effectively done just that. Additionally, the engine is now inboard a little which would tend to yaw the airplane out. This, I see, is one of the failings of normal assymetry where we have more area inboard and perhaps a tendence of the engine, being somewhat outboard to yaw the airplane in.

And the big problem, always, is the blanking of a portion of the lifting portion of the wing by the fuselage, and, with a longer flap outboard, gives a greater tendency to roll the plane in. (Of course, the stabilizer location would be countering some of this.)

So what would be the result of putting the engine on a pod slightly inboard (half inch or so) the fuselage "normal" or slightly outboard--and we would only need this fuselage from the wing back, no additional nose section. And then offsetting the stab in a half inch or so, pretty much in line with the engine?

Now, the yaw created by the inboard engine could be (and probably would be) totally unproductive, but certainly not as much as angling the thrust line outboard as done on many profiles. The location of the fuselage and stab may need adjustment, but I am thinking there cold be a reasonable something achieved here other than the way we have "always" done it.

OK, this ought to get something going. It is nice to hijack a thread, isn't it?

Leonard Neumann

Igor Burger · Apr 24, 2004 05:34 PM

#13 source
I think there was an article in SN some years ago. Henk de Jong wrote how well his model performs with inboard flap larger.