LAST EDITED ON Apr-26-04 AT 11:13 PM (CDT)
One important thing I forgot that I don't think is in the articles is the bit about keeping oil out of the structure. IF you are using any type model with an internal bellcrank, the oil will have an amazing tendency to migrate along the throttle pushrod and right straight into the structure. If the wood isn't sealed properly, it won't last long. One trick Orrin used that he mentioned in an MB column before he did the two part series was to use a piece of brass tubing as a bushing thru the firewall or wing LE and then make a "bootie" or seal out of a corner of a plastic bag like a "baggie" sandwich bag. Cut off the corner, poke the push rod thru it (might add a dab of silicone seal on the outside) then gather the "tail" around the end of the brass tube (it needs to protrude enough to get a good purchase on it) and secure it with the smallest ty-wrap (aka nylon electrical tie) you can get. This should be done when the pushrod is at full forward extension. It MUST move freely! The idea is that you now have a flexible "seal" of a sort that affords maximum rod movement with the minimum of resistance- which is VITAL to these systems.
One important thing I forgot that I don't think is in the articles is the bit about keeping oil out of the structure. IF you are using any type model with an internal bellcrank, the oil will have an amazing tendency to migrate along the throttle pushrod and right straight into the structure. If the wood isn't sealed properly, it won't last long. One trick Orrin used that he mentioned in an MB column before he did the two part series was to use a piece of brass tubing as a bushing thru the firewall or wing LE and then make a "bootie" or seal out of a corner of a plastic bag like a "baggie" sandwich bag. Cut off the corner, poke the push rod thru it (might add a dab of silicone seal on the outside) then gather the "tail" around the end of the brass tube (it needs to protrude enough to get a good purchase on it) and secure it with the smallest ty-wrap (aka nylon electrical tie) you can get. This should be done when the pushrod is at full forward extension. It MUST move freely! The idea is that you now have a flexible "seal" of a sort that affords maximum rod movement with the minimum of resistance- which is VITAL to these systems.
JAK
"It'll probably feel real good again, once it quits hurting".