Standard v. Uniflow tanks

Can someone point me to links or otherwise help me pick a tank for an Oriental? It will have either a Fox .35 or a SilverFoxx .40 in it depending on how heavy it turns out.

There must be ton of info on this one...

>Can someone point me to links or otherwise help me pick a
>tank for an Oriental? It will have either a Fox .35 or a
>SilverFoxx .40 in it depending on how heavy it turns out.
>
>There must be ton of info on this one...

A standard 4-ounce uni-flo hard tank is all that is required, although I have found that in this area, with my Fox 35s and the fuel I use a 4.5- to 5-ounce tank is preferred. (Typically we fly not too far above sea level; great for power, not mileage.)

My own Oriental has a hatch for access to the tank, all tubes come out front of tank, vent and overflow tubes are mounted to structure, connected to tank with fuel line.

Make it light so you can use the Fox 35.

Mike Haverly came by work at lunch a couple days ago, to show me his newish Ornamental. He took out the Magnum XLS .36 and tried the Magnum XL .28 that he flew in his Ringmaster, and is wildly enthused over it. I'm kinda disappointed that he didn't get the .36 dialed in, but if he likes it, that's good enough. Now, I may have to try a .28 in my Noblarf. Steve

But if I use Uniflow, how to I get the vent exposed? The tube would be inside the airplane facing forward!

It does need to be getting air, no?

I believe that uniflow tanks run consistently throughout the entire flight, while standard vented tanks run from rich to lean.

The method that most use to get the vent and the uniflow to the outside of the fuselage is to bend 1/8" copper tube and then soldier to a "fender washer", then glue this to a the fuse.

Pitfalls that I always run into are that the uniflow, which seems to be best on the inside of the fuse, should be about the tank to avoid siphoning. I generally find that I have to bore through a motor mount, so be careful.

I have used JB Weld successfully instead of soldier with the washer.

See Ya

Yes and it needs to be approximately 1/4 in above the top of the tank.

Internal uniflow can work well since it keeps it from seeing differences in pressure due to speed and wind, but it has the potential for unloading fuel through it at times so can become a problem inside. On profiles, I have put the uniflow vent right in behind the engine to keep it in still air.

Generally, on full fuse uniflow vents, you run both the vent and overflow out through the inboard side of the fuse, 90 degree bend up and then 90 degree bend fwd. It appears a a pitot tube facing fwd.

In use, you then fill through the uniflow vent, with the overflow open. when full, cap the overflow. Thats it.

You can just bend copper tubing for this use and epoxy it into the fuse. then connect to the tank with short pc of tubing.

Brodak makes the "magnum" tanks with all of the tubing attached to the tank. Then you cut a slot through the fuse. If you look closely at some front end pics, you will see the vents. When I get home, I can photo the set-up if needed and post.

The other option, depending upon engine, is to plumb muffler pressure to the uniflow vent. All else remains similar.

Hope this helps.

>But if I use Uniflow, how to I get the vent exposed? The
>tube would be inside the airplane facing forward!
>
>It does need to be getting air, no?

As some have pointed out, you can just leave it open vented inside the cowling. It will get air, although it will be hot air (not really a problem.) The biggest problem is fueling. So the answer is to place a hard point vent somewhere on your plane and connect it with flexible tubing (fuel line). That way you can move the tank/remove the tank with no problem, and extend the vent to wherever you wish. Although the side has been suggested and is the usual location, the top center is a good location as we have found out as well. In fact, if you put the filler tube on top, close to the prop (you do fill it while the engine isn't running, don't you?) you have a constant air blast to the vent that counters the affect taht wind may have on the vent (the reason to normally face the tube forward). In fact, Matt builds an air scoop into the top of the nose and hides the inlet tube inside this air vent. Then the affects of wind are totally out of the picture and so is the inlet tube. Or, if you have a fighter (like a P-40) you can make it look like a cannon in the nose. This is permanently mounted and connected with flexible tubing inside to the tank.

Hi Tom,
Take the 45 min to bring it all down here.
It will take about 5 min to show you what to do.
Bill <><

Bill <><
>
>When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his
>friends.
>Japanese Proverb

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Bill:

I've been looking at my friends.I'm concerned about my character.