Brodak Flitestreak tail- How thick is the balsa?

Anyone have a Brodak “Original Flite Streak” and can tell me how thick the balsa is on the rudder and horizontal stabilizer is? I want to build this plane but do not like the fishy looking tail feathers.
When I order the plane I will also order some balsa. I will use the
kit parts as a guide as to what size to make the new tail parts.

Thanks
Paul

Hi Paul, According to the plans, the elevator, stabilizer and rubber assembly are 1/8" balsa. I hope this helps! All the Best, Mike

True, it is 1/8 balsa which is actually OK for the fin. 3/16 works better for the stab and elevator(less flex, more rugged, easier to hinge using CA or pinned hinges) though you must be somewhat careful not to allow it to become tail heavy. This is a possible problem with engines around Fox 35/ OS FP 25 weight but not with heavier engines.
Other ideas:
Inlet the vertical fin into the top of the fuselage. This helps another real weak point.
Support the stab on 1/4 triangular stock to allow a larger glueing surface. In addition, you may pin the stab on with 1/8 dowel rods sunk into the fuse and sanded flush with the top of the stab.
Use a longer 3/8 X 1/2 hardwood bearer for the bottom mount and cut and shape it so it abuts the wing at or slightly behind the LE. This firms up the nose.
With the single wheel gear, you should be able to form a 1/8 ply triangular gusset on the inboard side joining the leading edge and inboard doubler. Notch the gusset for the gear wire so it can be slipped in. Again, more nose firmness.

Rootbeard,

And since you've already dipped your toe into the modification maelstrom....

I flew Sunday with Jesse, who had an ARF Flight Streak modified with a 20" span horizontal. Since he retained the basic shape from the original, the span must have been at the elevator tips. I think he used the stock thickness. It looked a little too flexible to me, but the guy helping him (Tony Nacarrato) said it flew very smooth. As far as I know, the rest of it was stock. If you can get a fairly light piece of 3/16, I'd try a little more span! (Be careful not to add too much chord to the elevator....) You could always trim it down if you don't like it. Jesse's had a very quiet LA .20 with a Zinger 9-5 prop that pulled it thru consecutive maneuvers really nice. He is just learning how to do horizontal eights, so we got to watch a lot of 'em! As far as attachment, I'm sold on 30 minute epoxy to attach, followed by 1/4" Epoxolite (or equivalent) fillets. When I dorked my Lightning Streak straight in at full power out of the wingover, this joint held up extremely well. Ditto for the dead stick on the SuperClown. I think this is better than dowels, keys, rails, nails, chewing gum or stapleguns....

If you're out there Jesse, congrats on the new maneuver, and a big thanks for the shade!!!

Dave
LA_Flyer
from the Manhattan Beach Racing Team

If you used a film finish like $kote like i did on my FS, then just use epoxy on the tail feathers!! Its plenty strong and takes a good rollin and a tumblin on tall grass, upon landing. The kote really adds strenght!! If you doped it all up, well just Fugedubout what i just said!! Paul

Paul:

you can use 4-6lb 1/4" balsa for the stab and elevator, if too heavy you can lighten it by cutting out the center of the stab. The thicker stab has the advantages mentioned plus seems to reduce how much the plane hunts.

Forget about using the standard landing gear, it is 3/32 wire and on grass/rough surfaces it will bend out of shape on the first couple landings also marginal in length for a 10" prop. Replace it with a longer 1/8 wire and insert a 1/2 to 5/8 dowel through the fuselage with a 1/8 hole drilled through it.

The leadouts should be only 3/4" apart, the plans show them much further apart. I would add a weight box and if you can adjustable leadouts.

I laminated a piece of 1/16" balsa onto to the stab using finishing epoxy, scraping as much glue off as possible. I wanted it straight and flat. I also boxed the trailing edge planking.

Power is an FP35 with a standard muffler, using muffler pressure and a chicken hopper. The airplane grooves, turns tight (and wide). It flies smoothly and will track. Naked (without tank and engine) it weighs under 16 ounces. Using a 10/6 the lap times were around 4 seconds. As the season begins again here in Philly, PA, I am switching to a 101/2x41/2 to slow it down some. With the engine I'm using the plane is if anything a tad nose heavy. Epoxying on the stab kept it soldly mounted to the balsa during a recent nose in under power. However the fuse split bellow the joint. Easy enough to repair. The wing was fine.

Thanks Guys,
A lot of good info here. Some of it is over my newbie head, but I am sure I will post some simple questions when the time comes.
I will try and sort it out.

Paul