RUSTLER IN ARF NOBLER

Many people have asked about the Rustler/40 so here are some pictures of mine in a ARF Nobler that I just finished. To use this motor with the rear exhaust I had to remove the firewall and build a slide in tank compartment. I added the nose bracing to try and get back the strength that was lost when removing the firewall.The motor sits on 1/8 " pads as the motor is to wide to fit between the mounts.This makes for a very clean looking nose but it was a lot of work.I changed all the controls and slid the stab in from the back.It took about ten hr total time.I will fly it later this week and see how well it works.
Ed

Verrrrry Kleeever. Do let us know how it flies. By the way, what was the final weight and how does it balance. Looks good.

The Rustler is very light so the CG is right on the recommended location and it weighs 39 onces.
Ed

How did this engine work out for you? I've got one of the Rustlers and I'm thinking doing the same install.

I have flown the ARF Nobler ten times as of last week and after working out a tank problem it is a great combination. Here are some changes I made. I moved the tank forward so it is 1/2 inch behind the motor and I had to bring the uniflow vent on the body up above the tank height. I gave up on the stock venture and opened it up to .292 and used a DS needle valve in it.Both setup's run the same but the stock set up is to large and sticks out the nose of the plane.As others have said the motor will run any way you want it to. I ran this in a fast four cycle using a 10/5 prop.The plane needed no trim in any way to fly great at contest level in a classic contest.I have had a chance to fly three ARF Noble's in the last month and they all had one thing in common. They all needed more pull on the handle for triangles end bottom of the hourglass.Inside turn is not as quick as outside.Understand the turn is the same but not as quick and heaver. First Nobler was FP powered and the second was a very much reworked Fox 35. This second plane was a aligned with gages and mine was done with tape lines on the body.I flew the Fox powered plane and mime back to back last Sunday in Clearwater Fl,very hot and light winds.The rustler powered Nobler didn't feel the wind at all and it was like driving in the sky. With the Fox powered Nobler I had to use the wind to keep the lines tight.The Rustler would fly the plane on the upwind side of the circle and it was flying slower than the Fox plane. I believe that all three of these planes have a common flaw.Some thing is not level in construction. The other two pilots were not as aware of the turn problem as I was but they don't as much I do. When I building I am careful to not build in these type of problems.Any good flyer could take this plane and fly a high score with it as it is a very easy plane to fly and gives a nice tight pattern.I am home from Florida and I can't make to Hunterville this weekend 30 miles away as I have walking pneumonia. What a bummer!
Ed

We were just sorting out a similar unbalanced turn problem with a Chipmunk yesterday. Found that adjusting the elevator neutral would let us dial in the turns. The flaps had pretty equal travel. So we tried cranking in more up, and managed to get the plane to turn tighter inside and not so good outside. Cranking some down back in evened out the turns both ways.

>We were just sorting out a similar unbalanced turn problem
>with a Chipmunk yesterday. Found that adjusting the
>elevator neutral would let us dial in the turns. The flaps
>had pretty equal travel. So we tried cranking in more up,
>and managed to get the plane to turn tighter inside and not
>so good outside. Cranking some down back in evened out the
>turns both ways.

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Phil:

In my experience this is a common trim problem and worsens with the amount of separation between the wing and stab chord lines.My guess is it's caused by the difference in wing downwash on the stab.I've found ,as have others,that building in +1/2 to +1 degree of stab incidence will reduce or eliminate it.

After Eddy's visit I taped all the hinged surfaces and went from my "for testing new planes cable handle" to a Morris style hard point handle dedicated to my ARF Nobler. I now have the handle bios up with the top mount raised off center and have a nice equal inside and outside turn now.

Yeah, my ABC Fox 35 is a little light on the lines compared to the Rustler, but it always stays out there as long as you are semi concious of the wind direction. I'm running an APC 10x6 on it, in a wet 2 that occasionaly burps to a solid 4 on one side of the circle, at about 5.0 laps. Feels ok to me, but I see this as a fun plane, which it really delivers in spades. Where else can you get this kind of performance per dollar & time spent ratio?

It was great to see you Eddy, and below is proof you were here. I like all the decals, but tell me, how did you get Hooker to make headers for your Rustler????
Later,
Eric

The incidence works, if you do it during construction. Quite a bit of work if you wait til the plane is done. Since every stunter should have at least ONE adjustable control horn, putting it on the elevator is probably best. Then you can make some useful trim changes without cutting things up. I know this trick of using the elevator neutral to balance the loop diameters is an old one. I just couldn't find any references in the archives.

Hey Eddy!
I saaw you for about 30 seconds at Huntersville. You were gone before I could catch up with you. Now I know why! Hope you are feeling better, and we will HAVE to get together when I get back from Brodak's.
Bill <><