Glue

If In Building Your Model You Were Limited To Only One Type Of Glue What Would It Be And Why?

>If In Building Your Model You Were Limited To Only One Type
>Of Glue What Would It Be And Why?

You need to think this through one more time. Is CA one type of glue and so we need to pick thin, medium or thick? What about all the various types of epoxies, from 2-minute to overnight?

On the other hand, if we are to take your question literally, I would choose slow-drying epoxy. There are areas in a model which simply cannot be glued properly without such a glue. For all the other areas there are ways--none too convenient--to build and do it without excessive weight build-up.

PVA or aliphatic resin for me.

PVA is strong, fuel proof, doesn't smell, remains just a little flexable, doesn't take too long to dry even on large surfaces, easy to clean up spills and overflows with water easy to use and non hazardous.

Used to use tarzans grip type glues as a kid because, that's what instructions and hobby shops people said but PVA is far better.
Epoxy, too messy, requires mixing and the razer plane does not like it. CA makes the balsa brittle and is hazardous to eyes and skin,
even the fumes are nasty.

Don't get me wrong, there are places for all these and I do use them.

Probably polyurathane (Gorilla Glue) or the like. I don't use much of it now but thats because I am not limited. Why? Because it's strong, water proof, fuel proof, sandable, somewhat gap filling, slow setting enough to give time for adjustment and cheaper than epoxy. I wouldn't want any of the solvent cements as I wouldn't trust then for engine bearers, bell crank mounts or doublers. Why do you ask?

I would want the cellulose glue I used to order in quart cans from AHC.

>I would want the cellulose glue I used to order in quart
>cans from AHC.
>
>Jim

It's a meaningless question like: "How long and sharp is your sword"/

Jake

Its Veery loong and Extreeemely sharp!

Pica Glu-it. Light, aliphatic glue, dries fast. I feel it is stronger than Ambroid or Sigment so I would feel safer using it on the doublers and engine mounts.
Bill <><

Sig or 'Broid.

Depends on which you like to chew off your fingers.

Elmer's industriel or
Tite Bond alphaic.
Bigiron

LAST EDITED ON May-20-04 AT 01:03 AM (CDT)
 
I can't help thinking how fortunate we are to live in a time (and place) where there are no limitations on such things........Back to the Twister (a little Fancherised) using what ever glue I deem appropriate, from the huge range in my workshop.........

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Probably PICA GLUIT.It's light,it's as strong as any other aliphatic,light, sands well,it's light,dries reasonably fast,it's light,works well on almost any material except metal,cleans up with water,and it's light.

Hi Ron,
This is getting scary. Now we're even picking the same kind of glue!!
Did anyone mention that it is light, strong, light, quick drying, and light??
Bill <><

I think Tom Morris likes Elmers Glue-All or some such. I'll go with that based on the theory that he knows a heck-of-a-lot more about building than I do!

Hi Tom,
Did Ron B., and I, mention that Pica Gluit is light, dries fast, it is light, it's an aliphatic glue, it's light, it's as strong as most hobby epoxies, it's light, it dries clear, and it's light? LOL!!
Bill <><