Finishes

I was reading through some old model mags and ran across an article about Old Time Stunt by Mike Keville (FM Jan 1992). Mike mentioned rememberances of brushing on that last coat of dope and flying when it was barely dry. We probably all have similar experiences.
It occurred to me that all of mine and most of my friend's finishes were BRUSHED on. We didn't have spray equipment, and spray cans (when they became available) were too expensive.
I have seen many beautiful finishes on OTS planes, but I don't remember seeing them when the planes were not old-time.
Was this just in my area or were the finishes simpler then? I remember seeing well decorated planes but nothing like today. Do your everyday planes get the same quality finish as your contest planes?
Of course some folks only build contest-grade planes

Yep you are right we use to brush everything on and 90% of the finishes just weren't that good. In this return to the hobby I have decided on 3 levels of finish depending on the models purpose..

1. Sport, knock around. Cover the wings and control surfaces with one of the iron on plastic coverings. FasCal, Monokote whatever. Finish all left over bare wood with one brushed on coat of Z-Poxy finishing resin wiping off all excess with paper towels. The next day after the epoxy has cured, sand with 220 grit paper then spray on color coat of either Rust-Oleum or LustreKote. Ready to fly as soon as the paint won't come off on your hands.

2. Nicer looking stunt ships but not front row material. Cover wings and control surfaces with Monokote. Cover all bare wood with .02 oz Carbon fiber doped down with Brodak clear. Apply a couple of coats of clear, add the carbon and another coat or two of clear. Then fill with cornstarch/clear per GMS's instructions.

Quote from GMA "Put about 4 oz. of clear dope in a qt. jar. Then fill it almost to the top with cooking corn starch (instead of talc). Now start pouring thinner into the jar, stirring constantly. The volume will reduce quickly in the jar, as the air is displaced by the dope/thinner. A quick check on a scrap piece of wood, will tell you when it's the right consistency. You want it to brush easily, and dry quickly. The clincher is that it sands very easily. Thin it further, or add more starch, as needed. A coat on the areas to be filled, allow it to dry well, and then get out in the yard to sand it down. You'll know it's right, when you have a big cloud of the starch around you when sanding. Most of the filler will come off, leaving only the spots that need filling. Seal this with a coat or two of clear, and you've got it ! "

Once it is slick and smooth finish off with Lusterkote or Rust-Oleum and spray a final coat of clear over the painted parts using the same kind of paint I did for the color.

3. Is a full blown sprayed dope finish with carbon fiber on all solid wood and silkspan on open bays. This I haven't attempted since the 70's but will as soon as I get my Cavalier to that stage. Someday I might try the two part auto finishes but will need to have a better work area and spray equipment.