Take-apart ideas please ??

Fellow addicts:
Looking for all the options for a take apart 40 size stunter.
I have tried one piece wing like R/C but need smaller package : like
2 piece wings
Tom Morris system looks good , anyone used it?
where do the bolts go in the wing retention area?
In the photos looks like they are horizontal----in the wing
Would a ply box with tongue in fuselage be strong enough with
a single 4/40 bolt for each wing half. Perhaps there is a handy
tubular system like the large R/Cs use?
thanks for any help
Vincent

While there are many variations on the basic take-apart idea, as long as you at least know about the fittings from Tom Morris, that would easily be your best approach. I am sure they come with good instructions, these anwering further questions.

In order to more fully make the point, Paul Walker has used Morris-supplied take-apart hardware on all his Miss America P-51 Mustangs. (Ooops, I believe this year's model is a one-piece set-up.) Although interchangeability of wings and fuselages between various models was certainly a factor, ease of use, reliability, and light weight were high on Paul's list, of that you can be sure.

As you may have seen in a recent Stunt News, Chris Cox built a fabulous Saturn, one with two fuselages. The preferred piece carries a 40VF and pipe, the other a Saito 56. The hardware was either from Morris or machined by Chris to near identical specifications.

A caution: As mentioned, there are many variations on the basic idea. A really important consideration is not convenience in assembly, instead it is whether you can get the model assembled **exactly** as it was before being broken down. This is not a small point, making quite a few design features of some take-apart models nearly worthless.

I'll cast my vote with Dan...and Tom Morris hardware. Further, I believe the concept would work nicely on a profile fuselage, or a foam with with "spars". Three 6-32 socket head machine screws hold on each wing half. That's about equivalent to a 3.5mm. I would add, however, that typically take-apart models are not taken apart after each trip to the flying field for the return home. Here, anyway, it is more for the long trips to the NATS or Worlds, and for the improved ease of maintainance and repair. Steve

Many thanks to both of you for taking the time to reply
Ordered a set from Tom Morris
Vincent

snip
Three 6-32
>socket head machine screws hold on each wing half. That's
>about equivalent to a 3.5mm.
snip
Steve
>

Not correct. They are 4-40 socket head bolts. They are grade 8 (180 ksi) bolts. Do NOT use standard hobby shop bolts for this task. You could be very sorry if you did. Follow Tom's instructions closely.

LAST EDITED ON May-23-04 AT 09:03 PM (CDT)
 
Hello Vincent, For quite sometime I have had the urge to build an Eindecker, but could not make the design work unless the fuel tank was burried in the wings center section. Then, at the Golden State Stunt meet, Chris Cox schooled me on his take apart Saturn. I WAS INSPIRED!!!!!! Durring the three hour drive home I was drawing plans in my head. Using Tom Morris' take-apart technique I was given the necessary room in the fuse between the wing halves,thus letting me put the heavy OS four stroke almost right up against the leading edge of the wing. Under the Post subject "Question for Ron B F4F Guy". You'll find pictures of my just completed Eindecker E III. The last couple of shots show the model disassembled.If you buy Tom's goodies, you'll also get a very informitive "how to" along with it. Larry, NorCal Circle Jerks. I also posted pictures under "What Are You Building"

If I could build to your Eindecker standards,
I would not need to seek help in this forum !!
Beautiful work
Vincent