Godzilla (The City Smasher) · Oct 20, 2001 10:09 AM
#0 sourceHas anyone any experience with the Brodak Legacy kit. Is it laser cut or die cut? Was the wood OK?
Has anyone any experience with the Brodak Legacy kit.?
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 12 of 12 known posts recovered
Scott Riese · Oct 20, 2001 10:13 AM
#1 sourceGreat kit.Good wood. All die cut. I'll put an OS-40VF in this one
Brad
I have the kit, looks great overall, wood is die cut but overall wood is very good, Brodak includes the boomerang shaped flap horn in this kit-first one I've seen in a Brodak kit. In reading the plans and instructions, it appears fuse sides are for piped engines and you are to remove 1/4 inch from fuse bottom for non piped plants if I am recalling correctly-it's buried so deep I couldn't get it out to check for sure.
I am getting the urge to build it and will start for sure over the winter but first, a better old timer, a couple of combaters, and a self design 40 size PA, etc. etc.
Jim
I have the kit, looks great overall, wood is die cut but overall wood is very good, Brodak includes the boomerang shaped flap horn in this kit-first one I've seen in a Brodak kit. In reading the plans and instructions, it appears fuse sides are for piped engines and you are to remove 1/4 inch from fuse bottom for non piped plants if I am recalling correctly-it's buried so deep I couldn't get it out to check for sure.
I am getting the urge to build it and will start for sure over the winter but first, a better old timer, a couple of combaters, and a self design 40 size PA, etc. etc.
Jim
Bill Hummel · Oct 21, 2001 07:24 PM
#3 sourceHi, Brad,
I'm just installing the wing in the fuse on mine. Really nice kit, only replaced some tail wood. I'm using a PA 61 side exhaust, with muffler. Wing was exceptionally well designed and cut; everything fit perfectly. All usable hardware. Very good kit for a second or third built up stunter.
I'm just installing the wing in the fuse on mine. Really nice kit, only replaced some tail wood. I'm using a PA 61 side exhaust, with muffler. Wing was exceptionally well designed and cut; everything fit perfectly. All usable hardware. Very good kit for a second or third built up stunter.
Bill Hummel
RocketCityJim · Oct 22, 2001 07:30 AM
#4 sourceHi Bradley!
I too have a Legacy Kit. I just now moved into a house with a garage/shop, so I can get started on mine this winter. I have checked the wood and it looks very good. I will put my tried and true PA .51 into it. I'm going to try and keep it under 59 ounces and shorten the wingspan to 58 &3/8" where I think it will fly best. I'm going to try you Minwax clear method and double Jap tissue over open bays - then the auto paint method. Should look cool when it's done.
Jim Pollock
Best kit I've ever built. Best flying plane I've ever built. Only had one bad piece of wood in mine and that was a leading edge that I could replace for 11 cents. Mine is modified with a different fin/rudder and turtledeck and now strongly resembles a Giant Nobler. The wing was the easiest built and straightest I've ever done. I built the fuselage over the wing so I didn't have to cut out the bottom to put it together. Mine is covered entirely with $kote and powered by a box stock Fox .46 BB ABC which is plenty of power for my limited flying skills. Only problem I've had is the stablizer will start humming and buffeting at one certain speed. Plane is still steady but afraid the stab will eventuall snap if I don't correct this. It is not a structural inadequacy as I have double checked all glue joints. I think it is some sort of oscillation due to the RPMS at that particular speed. When it starts, a little up or down will instantly stop the buzzing. Doesn't do it in maneuvers, only in perfectly level flight when the engine hits a really fat zone (probably too fat for this particular engine was not designed for a 4-2-4). Running an 11 x 4. Tail never did this with an 11.5 x 4, but I lost too many prop tips on take off when the larger prop hit the carpet on release. I'm going to build another of these someday.
Highly recommend it.
Highly recommend it.
Mitch
Sounds like a major prop clearance issue as I will be using 12" or 12.5" props on ST 51 or ST 60. Did you do your landing gear per plans? Would reasonably larger wheels cure the problem?
Jim
Sounds like a major prop clearance issue as I will be using 12" or 12.5" props on ST 51 or ST 60. Did you do your landing gear per plans? Would reasonably larger wheels cure the problem?
Jim
Godzilla (Smasher of Cities-Belcher of Fire) · Oct 22, 2001 10:50 AM
#7 sourceI met the gentleman who was flying the Brodak prototype at my last contest on Columbus. He was a genuinely nice person and I really liked his plane.
Too bad I cannot remember his name. Maybe someone can help me out.
Is the stab built up or solid balsa? What are the top and bottom blocks?
Stab is built up. Really large. Allan Brickhause is the designer's name. Good flying plane.
Jim P: I used stock landing gear. Can't change wheels because my landing gear fairings/wheelpants are molded over the wheels. I'm going to put 1/2 - 1 ounce lead the tail to help keep the tail on the ground during roll out. Should also help during landings as it always noses over after roll, meaning I have to carefully remove dirt from the venturi. If I can keep the tail down, I'll go back to an 11.5 or 12" and lean the engine a bit. I'll try to bring it by your field friday afternoon after work if the weather is nice and show you what it does.
Hey, even with this problem, it was still the most complete and best kit I've ever had. Parts cut perfect. Much, much better cutting and wood than the Brodak Nobler kit and a heck of a lot easier to build.
Jim P: I used stock landing gear. Can't change wheels because my landing gear fairings/wheelpants are molded over the wheels. I'm going to put 1/2 - 1 ounce lead the tail to help keep the tail on the ground during roll out. Should also help during landings as it always noses over after roll, meaning I have to carefully remove dirt from the venturi. If I can keep the tail down, I'll go back to an 11.5 or 12" and lean the engine a bit. I'll try to bring it by your field friday afternoon after work if the weather is nice and show you what it does.
Hey, even with this problem, it was still the most complete and best kit I've ever had. Parts cut perfect. Much, much better cutting and wood than the Brodak Nobler kit and a heck of a lot easier to build.
LAST EDITED ON Oct-22-01 AT 12:56 PM (CDT)
If I could find an 11" x 4 three-bladed prop, I think this would also help
RocketCityJim · Oct 22, 2001 01:51 PM
#10 sourceHi,
If it is noseing over on landing then it sounds like it may be a little nose heavy. With that huge stab/elevator you should be able to move the CG back to a least 28-30% of MAC.
Jim Pollock
Curiosity got the best of me so I dug out the kit and plans.
Brad-Stab and elevator are built up from 1/2". Kit wood is very good. Top deck is 3/4, two blocks. Front, shorter block is good, rear,, longer block is a little hard and I may replace with some contest 3/4" I got from Riley.
Mitch-CG shown on plans is 4.125" behind LE and 2" behind wheel centerline which should allow it to settle on the tail wheel even in short grass. Is your CG possibly too far forward or wheels too far back? I measured the angle of the dangle from the plans and looks like you could get away with a 12" prop with 1.25" of clearance assuming nose parallel on take off. This should be plenty of clearance and might could even go to a 13" prop if desired.
Yes, let me know if you are going to come by the OKC field Friday and approximate time and I'll be there- Friday weather looks good long range so I'll bring out the new Oriental/35S for more trimming and tank position experiments.
Jim