OK Cub .049

Has anyone used the OK Cub .049 engines, and if so, how would you rate them?

SoH

>Has anyone used the OK Cub .049 engines, and if so, how
>would you rate them?
>
>SoH
Didn't we go through this just awhile back? Or was that at (now defunct) Flightlines? To answer the question: I would rate them as pretty good fishing sinkers.
--Ray

Yes, in fact, I looked up the info in the archives for product reviews and stuntforum for any personal experiences. Found one that took a tangent into anodizing motors.

SoH

I haven't done .049s for quite a while but I remember the Cub .049 that I owned was a good engine. It didn't scream like the Cox but still had good enough power to fly the little ship I had it on.( I don't remember what)
For some reason I remember it as having more torque than the Cox but I could be 'way wrong on this. What do you want to use it for and on?
If it's a kid's trainer, it'll be fine. If it's on a combat ship...I would suggest something else.

I was thinking about using on a trainer type 1/2A model, however if that would be a waste of time and money I might as well go with the norvels since I can use them for a longer periode of Time.

SoH

The Cub as delivered has a bunch of problems, usually, but if you work them over, they can be a decent engine. I think I outlined the proceedure some time ago.

The key items:

Replace the needle valve assembly with one from the C*x RTF engine backplate.

Polish and fit the crankshaft to the case.

Improve the balance of the shaft by grinding the usual flats from the crankpin to the center edge, and then drill out the center of the crankpin.

Clean up the flow path at the edges of the crankshaft port, and then chamfer the exit hole.

Clean up any burrs obscuring the bypass ports and smooth the entry to them.

Use lots of nitro and a hot range plug.

Or go buy a Norvel.

Thanks Larry, I believe I've heard what I needed to--NORVEL time!!

SoH

I don't see anything really wrong with the O.K. Cub engines. They are still available at a very low price. Frank Macy (AJ Aircraft) still has them. Not a contest motor, but a good deal for the price.

Back in the USAF/Germany days Cubs were the only engines readily available in the BX. Super cheap, and when run on 25% nitro (sometimes more) they worked just fine in FF & sporty CL models. Didn't necessarily live too long being run like that but they were like little chicks - "cheep, cheep, cheep" so we didn't mind. No way one will stay with a Cox/Norvel but they'll get the job done. Also. very nostalgiac, even though, as they say, Nostalgia ain't what it used to be. . . .

Bolivar Shagnasty:D

As a kid I used them in several Scientific plank-wing trainer types with good results.

True, they won't last or rev like a C*x but I allways liked them.

What did I kanow? I was having FUN!

Bigs

" What constitutes the dignity of a craft is that it creates a fellowship, that it binds men together and fashions for them a common language. For there is but one problem - the problem of human relations."

Adding some taper to the needle does wonders for ease of tuning.

Thanks

SoH

Thanks,

I just tried a quick google search, can not find the fellow Macy or OK Cub web site you are referring to...got an address? Is this a web site or an address to AJ MAcy to order his Herkimer 049 Cubs?

Also, are these NOS Cubs, built up from spares or a rePOP?

Not that it matters much if you want one..the new ones are probably built to higher standards all around.

Along the lines of new builds Bob Langelious has spent some bucks doing his second run of K&B 020 Infants...I got a cylinder, head and 3 plugs for my old 020 from him.

The old/new stuff does not set performance records...you just smile when you hold and love 'em...if they run....the little...#($*@&%&@#(!!!>

Like everyone over 50, I had a couple. Really, they were a good sport engine if you got the knack of starting them. They were NOT high on rev's but swung a hefty prop well and drew fuel well. The conventional spraybar let you use a perfect metal tank if you wanted.
Actually, they were state of the art until LeRoy Cox figured out how to make perfect piston & Sleeve assemblies.

For high performance go with the Norvel, but if you're building something like a Scientific Super Stunt Master or a Firebaby for nostalgia, that Norvel would be like mixing Canadian Club with Coca-Cola......it works but what a shame!

Have fun..

Jeff W.

BLACK HAWK
I have sold over 150 OK Cub .049A engines and have had only one return (fuel tank leak). The new Cubs seem to be good little engines but they are still a $25.00 engine. Yes, they will ware out, but you will get tons of fun before they do. There are improvements that could be made but it is a great fun engine just the way it is.

Thanks, I've been to your website and that is what brought the question to mind. Also I like the 1/2A kits you have...

SoH

I've had a couple Cubbies since the late '50,s.Still use 'em on occasion--they still are easy to handle and they run well (for a Cub). Currently have one on a FF "Souxe" (old Veco kit) and plan to use the other one in a Dakota bipe. The Cub is an ok engine for this kind of use.Just don't expect to win any races with it.

greedy

I hope I was not too negative, I own about a half dozen Cubs including the .049 and .074 diesels. They all run, which is more than I can say for the CS sport .049s of a few years ago!

They are what they are, but with the TLC I outlined, they can be a lot more. They should NOT wear out if you use 20% oil 50/50 castor or more castor.

In my experience, 1/2A engines wear out because they are far more sensitive to dust than bigger engines, and they are closer to the ground on takeoff!

Hold them up in the air when you start them and only put them on the ground the instant of launch and you will have them last a LOT longer.

AND if you crash, take it home and clean it, don't (do as I did) just flush it with fuel and fly some more. That is guaranteed to kill the piston/cylinder fit.

BLACK HAWK
I am glad to hear that you are looking at some of my kits. I do offer a FREE catalog of all 25 kits.
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300 EAST ARBOR STREET #64
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