Brodak fuel tanks

LAST EDITED ON Jul-16-04 AT 06:58 AM (CDT)
 
Brodak Fuel tanks are just slightly wider than 2 inches. But y'all probably already knew that.

So, if you bought one of the really accurate laser cut kits with bulkheads that are 2" wide, they really ARE 2" wide. But y'all probably already knew that too.

Now for plan "B". ...guess I'll be learning how to make fuel tanks

added comment: we're talking .05 inch here. perhaps a couple of small "taps" with a big hammer might do the trick...

Ron,
I know of what you mean. However isn't the "problem" the endcaps? I once thought about filing the thing down a bit, but taking care to watch for leaks.

If the problem is the end caps, just unsolder the end caps and make new ones that fit INSIDE the tank body (much neater anyway).

Fred

Fred,
I like the word ...."just" unsolder.....

I hate doing that, because at that point I realize that I should just make my own tank.

Right, and the ends are the true hard part in making a tank, at least for me. But it will save some time.

Also, make sure you pressure test the tanks under water to check for leaks. The last five Brodaks tanks I own have been leakers.

>Also, make sure you pressure test the tanks under water to
>check for leaks. The last five Brodaks tanks I own have been
>leakers.
>
>John

hmmm... good point. I've haven't received a leaker yet but It's a good point. Murphy's Law ya' know.

I use a table sander and shave the end caps down. I then pressure test to see if I've gone too far.

You can also use a round Dremel grinding wheel to cut a groove in the plywood doubler (if installed) to give your self a little more room. I usually just do a light line on the outside edge (where the pointy end of the tank will ride. I do enough to give myself some shimming room, but not too much to weaken the sides. After I've ground the tank down, it doesn't take much at all.

Personally, I can think of a lot of things I would rather do than to unsolder a tank and recess the ends inside. That sounds like a very difficult job to me.

Enjoy,

Ron King

I ran into that problem 6 years ago with Smith tanks. I gouged out the side of the tank compartment a bit to make the tank fit. Ever since, on new kits, I just make two new forward bulkheads 1/8" wider than those supplied in the kit, piece of cake if you have a Scrol Saw.
I'm not sure if that messes with Classic or Old Time rules, but then I'm not a competition flyer.

>Personally, I can think of a lot of things I would rather do
>than to unsolder a tank and recess the ends inside. That
>sounds like a very difficult job to me.

Had to do this for my RSM Skylark, the fuselage formers were router cut and the fuselage actually came out somewhat less than two inches. I didn't bother to check until I had the fuselage completely built, who would have thought.... It wouldn't have mattered whose tank I used it wasn't going to fit.

I found the GRW tanks were exactly 2 inches while Brodak tanks are a tad over 2 inches. By starting with a GRW tank kit from Leonard it wasn't too difficult to make new ends that fit inside the tank. At least I didn't have to take the tank apart to start with.

WELL. I've seen WC, Nats Champs, Watch another Nats Champ Take a hammer and hit the tank on the Pointy end to make the tank fit in a Tucker.... It works.

Scott(I love low Tech)Riese

>WELL. I've seen WC, Nats Champs, Watch another Nats Champ
>Take a hammer and hit the tank on the Pointy end to make the
>tank fit in a Tucker.... It works.
>
>Scott(I love low Tech)Riese

Yup. That's how I finally got mine to fit: two thumps on the pointy corners.