Could someone please post a process for painting films.
Has anyone had luck getting primer to stick?
Can you mask over the paint without pulling tape?
The City Smasher
Painting film
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 5 of 5 known posts recovered
Mike Alimov · Jul 16, 2004 01:45 PM
#1 sourceBrad,
I guess it depends on the exact kind of film you're using...
Here are some tips I learned while talking to people of the WCh.
Serge Delabarde from France covered his Yak-55 with clear mylar, then shot a (I believe automotive-type) coat of primer, followed by a 2-part polyurethane. That's it. No clears, no wet sanding, no rubbing or buffing. Needless to say, it won't give you that *shiny* 20-pt finish so much admired around here.
Vladimir Strahov from Russia also covers with clear mylar, but he sands the entire surface with 1200 grit to give it some "bite". Alternatively, you can cover with mylar that has matted surface (the kind used by draftsmen for inking.. just very thin). He didn't mention using any primer. Just two medium coats of 2-part polyurethane base color plus color trim on top.
None of them mentioned the surface prep before covering, other than coating the wing frame with the mylar-compatible adhesive. My book on MonoKoating RC airplanes says that the best substrate is bare wood, sanded with 600 to 1000 grit, vacuumed and wiped with tack cloth.
I guess it depends on the exact kind of film you're using...
Here are some tips I learned while talking to people of the WCh.
Serge Delabarde from France covered his Yak-55 with clear mylar, then shot a (I believe automotive-type) coat of primer, followed by a 2-part polyurethane. That's it. No clears, no wet sanding, no rubbing or buffing. Needless to say, it won't give you that *shiny* 20-pt finish so much admired around here.
Vladimir Strahov from Russia also covers with clear mylar, but he sands the entire surface with 1200 grit to give it some "bite". Alternatively, you can cover with mylar that has matted surface (the kind used by draftsmen for inking.. just very thin). He didn't mention using any primer. Just two medium coats of 2-part polyurethane base color plus color trim on top.
None of them mentioned the surface prep before covering, other than coating the wing frame with the mylar-compatible adhesive. My book on MonoKoating RC airplanes says that the best substrate is bare wood, sanded with 600 to 1000 grit, vacuumed and wiped with tack cloth.
Hope this helps.
Brad,
I've been thinking about the same thing. MRL sells an excellent clear covering and has instructions for painting- http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/mylarcovering.htm
Derek Moran
I've been thinking about the same thing. MRL sells an excellent clear covering and has instructions for painting- http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/mylarcovering.htm
Derek Moran
A friend of mine covered his big Carden Extra all in white ultra coat then masked it of and scuffed the surface to be paint with 1200 ,just deglazed it.He then sprayed Dupont colors ,no primer directly onto the covering.It turned out excellent and it still looks great at 7 years old. 
Dennis Pedersen
Steve Helmick · Jul 17, 2004 12:12 AM
#4 source>Brad,
>I've been thinking about the same thing. MRL sells an
>excellent clear covering and has instructions for painting-
>http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/mylarcovering.htm
>Derek Moran
>I've been thinking about the same thing. MRL sells an
>excellent clear covering and has instructions for painting-
>http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/mylarcovering.htm
>Derek Moran
Among the first users of mylar for their models were Bob & Bill Hunter, also well known for "Hot Stuff" glue. They painted the mylar before applying it to the model, the paint was then on the inside, so the finish was glossy and fuel proof. The fuselage can be painted and the adjacent seam painted over. I suspect repairs were interesting, but it may be worth considering. Steve