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Storing the ole Fox

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 18 of 18 known posts recovered

bob_bassett · Jul 17, 2004 04:25 PM

#0 source
What is a good procedure for storing a couple of Fox 35's until the health improves?


Bob from NW Florida

wcrane · Jul 17, 2004 06:44 PM

#1 source
Run em on all castor, run em dry, flood them with ATF or Risolone, wrap them in a clean rag moistened with the aformentioned fluid, put em in a ziplock and suck the air out. Put the bag in a coffee can with an airtight lid.

From somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane
AMA 6733

F4FGuy · Jul 17, 2004 07:43 PM

#2 source
>What is a good procedure for storing a couple of Fox 35's
>until the health improves?
>
>
>Bob from NW Florida

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Their health will never improve ,but if you must try,Crane's advice is as good as any.

Ron B.

Jim T. · Jul 17, 2004 09:30 PM

#3 source
The following is for entertainment purposes only. Follow Mr. Crane's advice and do not try this at home. At the 1980 Nats, my son lost his B FF with Fox 25 (stunt 35 lookalike) due to timer failure. It spent a year in top of a tree near Dayton OH before it was blown down in a storm. I got it back, left it on the airplane, and did nothing with it until last year, 23 years later. (Actually, I probably put some Rislone in it when I got it back, and have forgotten about it.) I took it apart; not gummed up, no rust. I ran a tank of Sig Champion fuel though it and sold it to a happy camper on ebay.

Jim

Jim P · Jul 17, 2004 09:52 PM

#4 source
>What is a good procedure for storing a couple of Fox 35's

1-Place engines in a 2 lb coffee can and seal well
2-Dig a hole at least 4 feet deep and slightly larger than the can.
3-Drop the can and engines in the hole, fill and cover neatly and forget where they are buried.

When health improves, buy two Brodak 40's.

Garf · Jul 18, 2004 01:14 PM

#5 source
Some of us actually like those antiques. I have some Johnsons I wouldn't trade for anything.

"SAVE ALL THE PIECES"-Phil Brown

SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown

Bigiron13 · Jul 18, 2004 05:34 PM

#6 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-18-04 AT 05:35 PM (CDT)
 
I for one think that they are pretty darn good. They pull my Novi series of planes better than the Brodak 40 OR the Silver Foxx prepared OS FP 40. In the wind they do good also. Just ask anyone who watched the Novi IV fly on Sunday at the VSC this last March.
Just because someone can't get his to perform doesn't mean that no one elsr can either.
Bigiron (A Fox lover)

Bigiron13

Brad Smith · Jul 18, 2004 06:18 PM

#7 source
hey was your fox35 you had the last vsc stock cause sure did run good?

i crash i fix i fly i crash again see ya Brad Smith

dennis · Jul 18, 2004 08:02 PM

#8 source
> I for one think that they are pretty darn good. They pull
>my Novi series of planes better than the Brodak 40 OR the
>Silver Foxx prepared OS FP 40. In the wind they do good
>also. Just ask anyone who watched the Novi IV fly on Sunday
>at the VSC this last March.
> Just because someone can't get his to perform doesn't mean
>that no one elsr can either.
> Bigiron (A Fox lover)


Marvin, With no disrespect to you but you have a lot of years experience with those motors and there are a lot of people who just have had experience with them. I still see more fried Fox motors then any other type that also includes the R/C people which are about 2 or 3 it seems in the state. Don't get me wrong I like to bash them for what they are but I still use a few strictly for sport purposes.
Dennis

Jim P · Jul 19, 2004 07:44 AM

#9 source
Marvin:
I agree with Dennis.
For guys like you who have the knowledge, resources, and patience to make a Fox work the way you want it to, they can be a light, powerful and reliable engine. Aren't your best Foxes selected from a huge stash of engines and carefully fitted,tweaked, and broken in?

For the average modeler, they are a major source of frustration. Usually they were not properly broken in(Didn't Fox instructions say at one time that no break in was needed?)and are not being run on proper high oil fuel. As a result, I see guys and kids sitting around, endlessly flipping away, getting an occasional pop, maybe finally getting it to run, going off screaming lean on a suction tank with the inevitable lean out and melt down. Or it goes off with a decent setting, burps and dies in a lazy eight with the resulting broken $3 needle valve as the modeler lands it inverted rather than flipping it upright when he still had the speed to do so.

I have seen some Fox 35's around town lately with all the goodies and they are quite impressive-easy starts, consistent great runs and powerful. Unfortunately, they are also around $150.
As to the stock Fox 35's, it would seem that most beginning modelers would be better served with a more modern engine. Rather than the Brodak, which does have some minor idioscycracy's(sp) also, the ugly blue motors come to mind. They are truly idiot proof and wonderfully reliable even though ugly, cheaply made and heavy.

I saw a new flyer the other day show up with an ARF Nobler with stock tank, LA 46 still with remote needle, the suggested 10-6 Master Airscrew prop, 15% low oil fuel etc. He ran it for a minute or two on the ground, then put it up with a one flip start for several nice, consistent wet 2 cycle runs and is a happy camper with his new airplane. Don't think this would happen with a Fox 35.

wcrane · Jul 19, 2004 01:51 PM

#10 source
Don't think the man asked for the same old 'Fox vs' debate. He asked how to store the motors he already has so he could use them later.

From somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane
AMA 6733

De Hill · Jul 19, 2004 04:52 PM

#11 source
I see stock Fox .35's running every weekend out at the field. The guys evidently don't know that they won't work.

De Hill

Dick Fowler · Jul 19, 2004 05:26 PM

#12 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-20-04 AT 01:30 PM (CDT)
 
I tried oiling with Rislone and storing an OS MAx .35 motor in a zip-loc bag. After 10 years, the bag was semi-disolved and stuck to the engine! Didn't think anything attacked polyethylene so I guess the bags are made from some sort of copolymer that is attacked by petroleum products. I know 10 years is a long time but it did happen.

So now I use Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil (pH is neutral and it doesn't etch aluminum). I would think that ATF might also be neutral pH considering all of the aluminum parts in a transmission. I store all my engines in Gladware storage containers. They seal well and stack on a shelf. Disclaimer - I haven't stored anything for as long as 10 years yet in these containers

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kvarley · Jul 19, 2004 05:41 PM

#13 source
HI there; I understand that a lot of R.C. pylon racers store their used engines over the winter in a can or pail of kerosene. tried that once and it was perfect after the winter then the next winter I thought i would do the perfect thing. I had an almost new Y.S> 61 I was using for pattern flying, in the days of piped 60s.and I stored it for the winter in KLotz oil. Well I got to warn you guys NEVER NEVER NEVER do that. In the spring the thing had corroded so badly that I couldnt even get the crank out of it and when I ruined it to see the insides it was so corroded. steel and aluminum both .Not even good for a boat anchor. I was really miffed and then the cans of klotz started having warnings on them "Do not use as a storage oil". Be warned. Keith Varley

T.Durrill · Jul 20, 2004 01:01 PM

#14 source

Air tool is your best bet for storing engines. Works 100%.

T.Durrill

Zeke McCoy · Jul 20, 2004 04:35 PM

#15 source
Dick fowler said >Disclaimer - I haven't stored anything for as long as 10
>years yet in these containers
>

Has Gladware been on the market ten years yet?


I did make the mistake of using regular Marvel oil, it gummed up, so use the air tool oil.

KnightFlite · Jul 20, 2004 06:29 PM

#16 source
In a large air tight jar/can, pickeld in ATF fluid. End of story--Paul

gcb · Jul 20, 2004 07:32 PM

#17 source
Zeke,
Someone once posted information from a Marvel rep that said Marvel Air Tool Oil is just MMO with rust inhibitors.
I've had good luck with Campbell-Hausfeld air tool oil also.

George