Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

Ozcover painting

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 8 of 8 known posts recovered

godzilla · Jul 18, 2004 09:08 AM

#0 source
Can anyone give me specifics about using this material?

Didn't Rany Ryan use this stuff?

The City Smasher

R2K · Jul 18, 2004 01:44 PM

#1 source
Easy surface prep, simply wipe down with acetone using 1 rag with solvent and followed immediately by a dry one to lift off release agent before the acetone flashes off. Follow instructions in "Karate Kid": Wipe on-Wipe off. Pay attention to leading and trailing edge. I used spray can Rusto, two light coats on top, 1 on bottom, no primer, no sanding. That's it. It's been on my diesel Flitestreak for 3 years with plenty of spilled fuel, no problems with adhesion. This was second plane to use this finish, first was glo-powered and destroyed in a crash but post-mortem showed paint worked fine. Oz-lite is my choice; very tough, light, durable, spray-can paintable. Great choice for sport flying. Sticks to bare wood without bubbles, not like Brand X stuff. Never tried lacquer type finishes but it's impervious to acetone so it should work fine. I understand current supplies don't need acetone wash but I'd wipe it down anyway. Have fun.

RK
NACA
North Alabama Control-line Association

Steve Helmick · Jul 18, 2004 06:23 PM

#3 source
Calling Steve Moon is the obvious solution, no? Steve

Randy Ryan · Jul 18, 2004 05:01 PM

#2 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-18-04 AT 09:25 PM (CDT)
 
Brad,

I've used Oz Cover quite a bit and really like it. It can take allot of heat, more then $kote, but you can still burn it. It will stick and restick numerous times and sticks to itself well.

Surface (structure) prep, as always, is very important, don't want to be doing allot of filling, it defeats the purpose. I used a $kote mit and heat gun and very carefully heated and rubbed the Oz Cov down to the sheeting and cap ribs. It works compounds better that $kote.

I do it a little bit different in that I wipe it down with acetone and scuff it BEFORE I cover. 0 or 00 steel wool and just a quick wipe down is all that is needed. This keeps from over scuffing over the ribs and such but a little scuffing over the seam areas afterward doesn't hurt. For primer I used Duplacolor Sandable rattlecan primer with several coats over the seams to feather them out. If you're good with a can you don't even need to sand (except seams) before color.

I did an experiment by covering a 4"x4" panel with preped OzCov and primed it as described. I took it to a club meeting and the guys tapped it, scratched it, gouged it etc., and the primer would not flake, it was permanently sealed to the covering. Very impressive.

The only other thing to watch is that you use low tack masking throughout because you can lift the film with tape. In areas I've done that I've been able to reseal it with a soft rag and iron, you've got to keep moving. I use dope over it and don't know how other finished would react to the hot rag method, best to prevent having to use it.

I stress again to make sure the entire area touching the airframe is totally sealed down or you WILL get bubbles in the sun. What you won't get is the sagging of other iron-on films. I really like this stuff and the light is plenty strong for a large open bay stunter.

Randy Ryan
AMA 8500
SAM 36
I fly 'em all and love it!

David Hoover · Jul 18, 2004 07:12 PM

#4 source
Who's the Ozcover distributor in North America?

Best, Hoovie

Life is simple. Eat. Sleep. Fly.

godzilla · Jul 18, 2004 08:14 PM

#5 source
Thanks Randy! I have some on the way.

The City Smasher

Max1998 · Jul 18, 2004 09:35 PM

#6 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-18-04 AT 09:37 PM (CDT)
 
I have the same question as David H ,where can you get this stuff OZ cover lite.Is it a fabric iron on or a smooth surface covering ? Thanks

Dennis Pedersen

Steve Helmick · Jul 19, 2004 07:28 AM

#7 source
It's a film of some sort. Here's a link to "Saturn Hobbies of Washington". The guy is in the Everett area. I think there's somebody in Florida that imports it also. Steve

http://home1.gte.net/res0bf5n/