I am working on a Brodak Pathfinder II and I can't bring myself to use the nylon R/C type control horns that were supplied with the kit.
It's high time to stop & smell the balsa.
Eggy
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 5 of 5 known posts recovered
I am working on a Brodak Pathfinder II and I can't bring myself to use the nylon R/C type control horns that were supplied with the kit.
It's high time to stop & smell the balsa.
Eggy
P.S. I buy my horns,Tom Morris, Windy, etc, sorry I have no expertise in the fabrication area.
Unless you are just wanting to do it for the heck of it, I would buy mine. Much more precision than the average modeler can achieve and if you value your time at all just not worth the effort, IMHO.
However, if you insist, use the low temp silver solder. Unbelievable strength and I have never had a problem with system failure. I put the bushings in first and clean them up before attaching the control arm to the horn. When complete, clean with acetone and an old toothbrush to remove any residue. I have made some in the past for older planes but quit a couple of years ago when I realized that for me it was a true case of "the law of diminishing returns" I use Tom Morris horns and systems now but there are other suppliers who also have quality products for almost any application
Later, John
I have no problem brazing neatly with a flux coated brass rod or using high silver content "solder". I just need some tips on how/when/if to quench the horn properly, when to add the bushings etc. so that I don't wind up with something that snaps in the air because it is brittle or somthing that is too soft because of the heat from the torch.
It's high time to stop & smell the balsa.
Eggy
jonuck