a couple of coats of house paint...

Product Reviews · 5 of 5 known posts recovered

Hofacker · Sep 02, 2003 07:25 AM

http://www.rccaraction.com/MA/how_to/latex1.asp

I've posted this link before and I thought I'd give it a try... Basically the house paint part of the process worked well. It covers really well, sparys easily, sands easily when completely dry, and is ligter weight when dry than you might have expected. Everything was looking pretty good until I tried putting Black Baron Clear over the top. That stuff is GARBAGE! I used the rattle can and could not get a smooth coat. it always left a rough mat surface possibly because the mist dried in the air befor it got to the surface. Then it turned yellow. Not just a little bit yellow. A LOT yellow. I've tried to sand it off but it still looks like yellow %$#@. I'm just glad this was a practice project.

I do like the idea of water based paints for easy clean up, alergies, etc. and this looks like it could work... IF you could come up with a clear over coat that worked. (or just paint your planes yellow to start with...

David Hoover · Sep 04, 2003 08:39 PM

#1 source

Interesting concept. You could try Nelson Hobbies water reducible polyurethane clear for your top coat. It's maybe a litttle pricey and there is a learning curve to using it well (I'm still learning) but it is a colourless (no yellow) clear that is very low VOC and cleans up with water. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/

Best, Hoovie

Life is simple. Eat. Sleep. Fly.

WEVD · Sep 12, 2003 01:15 PM

#2 source

A couple of years ago I wrote about a similar process in SN. But, I used the flat wall paint as a primer. Two coats, then sand. Spray or brush a top coat of COLOR WORKS color. I think this was by KRYLON. These will give you a reasonably shiney finish at minimal cost, and weight. Anyway, I've since found out that many of these household spray paints are fuelproof. Check out what you have in the basement and see what you got! Hint, Rustoleum Silver is NOT fuelproof! And the regular Rustoleum takes weeks to cure/dry! There is also a line of Model sprays paints that are designed to match film coverings.

Ward

Hofacker · Sep 18, 2003 08:01 AM

#3 source

Yes... and there have been a number of posts talking about "rattle can finishing". For me rattle can paints have almost always been a total disaster. It must be technique. I either get the can too close and get blotches/runs or I get the can too far away and get dry mist on the surface. I think the rattle can paint is too thin and drys too fast. The water based paints dry a little slower than the rattle can stuff and seem to me to flow better. The water clean up helps too... I was quite satisfied with the house paint color application. It went on smoothly, covered very well with minimum coats - I used one coat of each color! I did sand through in a couple of places but it was very easy to touch up and sand to a nice even, uniform flat look. It sands easily with dry sandpaper. I'm going to try some of the Nelson paint suggested in the previous response. Some folks have recommended Min Wax polyurethane. It's OK (maybe even better than just "OK") but paint your plane yellow, orange or red to start with. After all, that stuff is intended to be used like varnish which is expected to look "yellow" (golden, brownish, what ever...). I don't expect this house paint technique to win any trophies at the NATs. But, it is easy, quick (fewer coats etc.), light, and can produce a very reasonable finish.

Hofacker · Oct 03, 2003 07:36 AM

#4 source

>Interesting concept. You could try Nelson Hobbies water
>reducible polyurethane clear for your top coat. It's maybe
>a litttle pricey and there is a learning curve to using it
>well (I'm still learning) but it is a colourless (no yellow)
>clear that is very low VOC and cleans up with water.
>http://www.nelsonhobby.com/
>
>Best, Hoovie
>
>Life is simple. Eat. Sleep. Fly.

I picked up some of the Nelson Hobbies clear to try out. So far it seems very good. It sprays nicely and seems to behave much like thin clear dope. i.e. spray several light thin coats rathet than one thick one. And it is clear not yellow like the MinWax products... I haven't gotten to the point of trying to buff my test pieces yet, but the instructions say that sanding with 400 or 600 grit wet/dry sand paper just polishes the surface and to use 320 grit between coats. So, I'm hopeful that the clear can be buffed and polished similiar to a clear dope surface.