Cleaning off masking tape residue

Hi Guys; I know I have read this before somewhere, but can't remember. What do you guys use to take off the tape residue that does not come off with the tape when masking?

Rubber cement thinner. Won't even attack ink lines. Get at art supply stores.Wax and grease remover works also but not as well. I buy this at the PPG store and I use it when wet sanding also.
RO

3M makes an adheasive remover available at your local body shop supply store. I have never found anything better. I keep a quart at all times in the workshop.

>Hi Guys; I know I have read this before somewhere, but can't
>remember. What do you guys use to take off the tape residue
>that does not come off with the tape when masking?

Hi Jim; I use a product called Goo Gone, available at hardware stores and soem hobby shops. It's one of those citris based cleaners, and works well. Come in several sizes. I wonder if squeezing and orange peel onto a rag would work
Good luck and have fun,
Dan McEntee

Thanks Guys; I tried the Goo Gone and it zipped it right off. I use drafting tape instead of masking tape, as it doesn't stick as tight, and genrally don't have this problem, but my tape may be getting a little old. Thanks for all the help.

Mineral Spiirts, cheap.

Randy Ryan <><
AMA 8500
SAM 36
BO all my own M's

gasoline....cheap, effective, easy to find

Charcoal lighter fluid for the barbeque seems to work well for this too.

DON

Thanks Guys; Looks like a lot of different stuff works.It's really cool to post a question on here and see what you get. Saves lots of time rumaging through old magazines looking for info.

>Hi Guys; I know I have read this before somewhere, but can't
>remember. What do you guys use to take off the tape residue
>that does not come off with the tape when masking?

I have tried all of the above, but lighter fluid works best for me

Regards
Randy

www.aeroproduct.net

It should also be mentioned that naptha (lighter fluid) is a great wax and grease remover for paint prep, the active ingredient in commercial wax and grease remover is naptha.

Whatever you use, BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET IT BE IGNITED!

Randy Ryan <><
AMA 8500
SAM 36
BO all my own M's

Mineral spirits. Inexpensive, not very toxic, just a little smelly.

I removed some completely dried up masking tape from a ship, which was well over a year old. Just a little patience required.

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"The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on; it is never of any use to oneself." -Oscar Wilde

One caution. It depends on what you are taking the masking tape off of. For awhile I was using a 2 part auto finishing system. A urethane color coat and 2 part polyurethane topcoat. Just about all the products mentioned will remove urethane color coat (it has no stabilizer or binder). Even denatured alcohol. Getting tape residue off of the urethane color coat was an artform. You could use Isopropol Alcohol sparingly (don't rub too hard). Sometimes you can use dish soap and water or some cleaner I got from the art store, but it's pretty limited.

One of the major reasons I don't use it anymore.

without sounding like a smart alec, the best way is not to leave the adhesive there! Buy only good automotive grade masking tape that is designed for painting applications and you will not have the problems you are experienceing with adhesive

I will agree with you Mark, we used to use cheap tape only for priming etc. in the shop where I used to work, not only can you have tape tracks but along with that the finish might come off with the tape. I would imagine the automotive prep cleaners for wiping down your surface before you use a tack cloth might work, they seem to be okay over laquer primer and just about any thinner will attack laquer primer.

Mark,

I was trying to get off frisket paper adhesive. Not fun.

Randy,
yes to that I can relate, Frisket isnt as tightly monitored for adhesive stability as auto tape is generally. Though the good stuff is safe with laquers and such. You could always leave the adhesive and say its a new aero feature, turbalator texture to excite the airflow
Just one other note, be carefull with any solvent such as lighter fluid, and other non-solvents used as a solvent, they can contain petroleum procucts that can cause fisheye issues which is just what you would need after fighting the adhesive problem to then have to solve the fisheye problem!

Mark,

Well, that was the point. I couldn't use any sort of real solvent or the color would come right off. I could get away with Isopropol alcohol if I didn't rub too hard.

Sigh... so, it back to plain, old butyrate lacquer. That works just fine.