Everybody probably already knows this, but I am finishing up a Yates Dragon wing, and I still use pins to hold the sheeting down when gluing it on. I use masking tape some of the time, but pins seem to do the job better in some applications. The problem is, if you do a translucent covering job, the pin holes show up as little black dots. I take a very small paint brush, and just dab a little water on the pin holes, and they swell up and disappear. I am not sure this works if you use CA though, as I generally use thinned Titebond.
Jim Kraft
Nice tip. Thanks. My translucent-covered airplanes have been combat planes, so I hadn't noticed the problem.
Howard Rush
THat is a good tip.
I rarely use pins because they tend to cause alot of localized distortion in the sheet if not used in great quantity. Plus putting a pin into a 1/16 rib isn't so good anyway you look at it.
Weights of various sizes and shapes works really well for sheeting. CL Central sells set I think--but you can have your local steel center chop off a bunch of 1/2 sq or 1" sq bar for not much.
FWIW
Curt
I just use balsa coloured Micro-fill but I might try that out.
Thanks
Warren Leadbeatter
Port Stephens - Australia
AUS-14782
Don't remember where I heard this, when gluing top, bottom, or wing tip blocks etc, dampen both edges, then clamp,tape down, you will get an almost invisable glue joint.
Walter
I remember Bill Byles
Quilt makers pins from Michael's art supply (yellow head) are thinner, stronger and sharper than any hobby store variety I've seen.
I also use the water trick for eliminating pin holes, but they never seem to completely disappear.
Wayne
Spit on a finger works fine, but doesn't anybody SAND things any more?
If you want really fine pins go to a biological supply house and look at insect pins. If you want to go extra small look at "minuten nadelen". Think I spelled it right.
