Cockpit questions

I'm getting ready to do the cocpit on my CL-3 Chipmunk. Looking for ideas from you expert builders on techniques for wood removal of the solid fuse block for the interior of the cockpit. I know I can take my dremel and have at it but there has to be a neat way of doing it. Looking to do a nice job to install a pilot bust and instrument panel. Model is scratch built with the exception of the ribs which are from Sig's Super Chippy, "Itentical to the CL-3 Ribs"

Thanks!

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Mike,
Good looking ship. The cockpit can be done a lot of ways.
I'd make an effort to present a cockpit with the detail on top visible, like a pilot, seat beack, instrument panel, etc.
BTW, the acro Chipmunks like Skip Volk's and Art Scholl's had big engines and to counter the CG shift, they flew them from the back seat.
Chris...

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Were I to scratch build one of these, I would mold the top instead of carving a block. It is faster, lighter, stronger, cheaper--what more can I say. But since you have a block, you will need to hollow it as best as you can. Fit the canopy over the block before you cut out for the cockpit. Then cut out all the way around the inside of the canopy right up to the instrument panel which you should leave square. You may still want to hollow under this area and put a former in for the instrument panel. That would be simpler and stronger. Then you can add a floor in, either directly under this block, or all the way to the wing. It depends on how much detail you want and how far down you wish to go and how large your pilot bust is. Taking it just to the bottom of the block will still leave you room for a full instrument panel (of sorts), with a seat back behind the pilot with no other detail needed.

Although it might be fun, you don't need to spend a lot of time on detail here and, above all, keep it light.

Maybe the designer intended the top block to be STRUCTURAL, and cutting a hole in it might be bad bidness.

I'd suggest cutting the pilot figure so it sits on top of the block without cutting into it.

In the future, design a new plane with a genuine cockpit, don't try to back it in this late in the game.

>Maybe the designer intended the top block to be
>STRUCTURAL, and cutting hole in it might be bad
>bidness.(snip)



It's not structural


>I'd suggest cutting pilot figure so it sits on top of the
>block without cutting into it.
>
>In the future, design a new plane with a genuine cockpit,
>don't try to back it in this late in the game.
>


I don't understand your reasoning here. He built the plane, shaped the top block on the outside. When you are using a top block, that's the way you do it. Then you can either paint an outline or carve out a cockpit at your will. And since he is building a classic style plane, he built it (I assume) as it was originally built. Making a full blown cockpit would mean going into the wing and really tearing up the structure with a whole redesign. Leave that type of thing to the real scale buffs. It is not needed in a stunter.

Paul Smith,
Sheesh...

I appreciate the responses. I have no desire to get too carried away on the cocpit, just add a pilot bust and instrument panel. maybe a seat rest. My objective is to find the easiest solutions to carve out some of the top block to make room for these items.

At this point the top block is only tack glued on for the rough shapping. I have yet to hollow the block. I have been informed that possibly an exacto router blade might be the way to go.

This is the model I hope to have available for the classic stunt events. I have stuck to the plans. Only deviations are adjustable leadouts, tip weight and a wood cowl instead of plastic. This design use to be produced by Sig before the Super Chipmunk making it classic legal. I was fortnate enough to obtain canopies from Walter Umland and the correct wheel pants "plastic" from Larry Richards. I may still build wood pants however I'm not too thrilled with the plastic pants.

Hi Mike,

I understood your original question: "How do you remove the wood in the exposed area 'under' the top block which is a 'part of the top block'?"

Some people who read posts on the internet boards skim them and have very little comprehension of what is being said or asked. Being in education, I have seen a lot of studys that involve "conversations and communication"@ It has been proven that the vast majority of today's society does not "pay attention" to what the other person says, or writes. They are simply formulating their own response and waiting for their turn to present it.

The x-acto blades that are "hoop" shaped are the most generally used objects for this purpose of "hollowing out" blocks.

Big Bear <><
Character: It's what you do when no one else is watching.

Thanks Bill! Maybe I was not plain enough in describing what I planned to do. I will buy a set of router blades for the project. I have found a colored instrument panel for the Chpmunk on the net. Trying to figure out how to size it with Corel Draw, then print it out as a water slide decal.

Mike

Hi Bill
Boy, isn't that the truth!!! I have found the same response or lack of, in ordinary conversation. Email and forum posts only get worse.
Cheers, Roy