Rub on letters

Anybody use rub on letters anymore? Do the ones from Hobby Lobby work? Can you put clear dope over them? As you can tell, I have never tried them, but was wondering if they work, or if not worth the trouble. I remember years ago of guys using them, but at that time I believe they were called Letra Sets. Also, most of the ones I remember were only used for small lettering. What about like 2" numbers?

I had some custom ones made. The first guys I dealt with did a good job, but seem to have gone out of business. I got some from another source a year ago, but they were pretty thick and took a heap of dope to level out.

I did a Google search on "rubdown transfers" and came up with http://www.allout-graphics.com/docs/All-Out_PriceInfo.pdf , which looks pretty viable.

I don't know how the process works, but I get the impression that it doesn't take much to do these oneself. I'd be interested in learning more about the process.

I don't like decals, because the edge of the clear sheet upon which the decals are printed is visible. If anybody knows how to match the index of refraction of the clear sheet with that of a clearcoat, please tell me.

Thanks,
Howard Rush

You guys are in luck. Standby for the next Stunt News.

Curt

>I had some custom ones made. The first guys I dealt with did
>a good job, but seem to have gone out of business. I got some
>from another source a year ago, but they were pretty thick and
>took a heap of dope to level out.
>
>I did a Google search on "rubdown transfers" and
>came up with
>http://www.allout-graphics.com/docs/All-Out_PriceInfo.pdf ,
>which looks pretty viable.
>
>I don't know how the process works, but I get the impression
>that it doesn't take much to do these oneself. I'd be
>interested in learning more about the process.
>
>I don't like decals, because the edge of the clear sheet upon
>which the decals are printed is visible. If anybody knows how
>to match the index of refraction of the clear sheet with that
>of a clearcoat, please tell me.
>
>Thanks,
>Howard Rush


Ron B.
F4Fguy

Howard,

I agree, I don't use them (decals) when I can avoid it, but, when I do, I've had good success with the decal setting solutions used by "plastic modelers" (always wondered who molded them). "Solvaset" is a good one. These solutions are designed to plasticise and "suck" the decal to the surface. They work even over surface detail items such as rivets etc. The edges seem to disappear to the extent that, after a light dust coat of clear,a touch-up with 600 grit is all it takes. Further clear buildup completely seals the edge to invisibility. I've never tried it with an automotive catalysed clearcoat, so no guarantees on that front, but it works fine with butyrate or straight acrylic.

One other tip; always trim the decal to rounded edges(no sharp corners).

Ron B.

I think another term for these is "dry transfer". There are lettering sets and decals available from Woodland Scenics that are for model railroad use, and for boy scout Pinewood Derby cars. The ones for pine car racers and rain gutter regatta racing are pretty neat. If any remembers my old Yates Dragon, the dragon figure on the left ing was a Woodland Scenics dry transfer. The lettering can still be found at some office supply stores. Tom Lay had his lettering sets made by Letra Set. I think that was a brand name that just became synonimous with dry transfer products. They don't age well, and if you have soime old ones that don't want to rub off easily, try a little gentle heat. If I was putting on small letters, or on a difficult to reach part of the model, I put them on clear water slide decal paper first, then seal them, then cut them out and apply them to the airplane.
I don't know how they are made, but I'll guess it's a silk screen process. Would be nice to be able to "do it yourself" wit these.
Good luck and have fun,
Dan McEntee

Frank Carlisle
proud member of R.C.C.D

Here is a link to Tank's Hangar. They make stencils for painting that are as small as Letra-set.

http://www.tanks-hangar.com/Stencils/stencils.html

Tanks Hangar is the only place to go. He laser cuts a mask that I used to print the extra small letering on my scale ship. There is no edge to fight. Nothing else is worth the work. Google him and you will be very pleased.

Thanks for the input guys. Dan; I do indeed remember your Dragon. First time I saw it we were both flying Dragons at the Sig contest in 99. I thought yours was one of the coolest ones around. I just got done installing a new wing in mine, got it all painted, and trying to decide what to do for lettering and numbers. Had red tissue on it last time, and that may be what I do again. It does fade after a while, but is very easy to do. I just use a stencil to cut them out, and dope them on. Doesn't look to bad with my brushed on yellow translucent finish. Always looking for something better. Tried masking with contact paper once, but it stuck so tight I did not think I was going to get it off. Tried the low tack stuff, and it would not stick long enough to get stuff painted.

For large lettering painted on..get a vinyl sign shop to cut a reverse paint mask with low tack paint mask. Just prior to sticking it down, rub it across a pair of blue jeans to break the tack even further.

Once applied, seal around the edges with clear dope then paint.

I like to remove the mask while the paint is still "green" ie not fully cured.

Those small stncils are really excellent. The rub ons can be done in full four-color process though--its the only way other than having a commercial printer do a water tranfer where you can get white.

Curt

>
>Frank Carlisle
>proud member of R.C.C.D
>
>Here is a link to Tank's Hangar. They make stencils for
>painting that are as small as Letra-set.
>
>http://www.tanks-hangar.com/Stencils/stencils.html

Tanks stencils are the only way that I'd put lettering on my airplane. He prints letter stencils on frisket in any size or font you could want. He sends you a frisket sheet with your words and phrases. The frisket is sticky back. Cut out yur words, stick them on, squirt them with paint, pull off the frisket mask, stand back and admire.

Al Rabe

Actually you can buy waterslide, dry transfer, Inkjet and Laser papers from Decalpaper.com in inexpensive quantities. I just had the Dumas Gilmore Red Lion decaql sheet increased from a 30" wingspan size to 54 inches by taking inkjet paper to the local printshop who blew it up to the right size and lazer printed them for me. Came out perfect.A couple mist coats of lacquer and I'm all set to put em on. The paper does have a coat on it that will let you slide them off without overcoating but I too chicken to try it.
Jon Ramsden
<@_@>

one way of using rub on letters avoiding the risk of putting dents in the underlying sheet is to rub them onto transferdecal paper - the sort used for making decals using a home printer. Seal and float onto the model for a perfect, even lettering

Hello Jim Kraft,

For your info and all you others out there, Letraset is still in business and based out of the UK. You can go to their website and not only order "Dry Transfer" sheets in different sizes and styles as in the past but also in a few different colors.
There reasonably priced and you'll receive them in about a week.
There website address is: www.letraset.com
Remaining yours in STUNT,

Bob "Champione" Lampione

Bob Lampione
AMA 605
New York Stunt Team
Flushing, N.Y

Thank you Bob; I had not seen these for years, so did not know if they were still around. Guess I should have just Googled it. I just got back from their website, and they do have about everything covered. Thanks again;