Flite Streak ARF?

Thinking of getting one, since they are pretty cheap, and it's been a while since I've flown CL. I no longer have any non r/c engines, but I do have a Veco 19r/c, and a .40FP (r/c) Would one of these fly it ok? What length lines (and dia.) will I need? I know this is weak, but ARF's are about all I have time to build anymore. Looking for any suggestions...

The Veco should be a good match. Put some aluminum pads under the engine to spread the pressure out over the soft nose. Putting some pads on the other side and securing the bolts with nylon insert lock-nuts wouldn't hurt either. Replacing the lead-outs might also be a good idea. For line length I'd try 55-60 feet.

I'm using a Fox !5BB on mine with 52 foot lines. Flies great with this setup. Your Veco 19 should be fine.

For sport flying what they are telling you is fine, but if you want to get competitive, Dirty Dan has laid out a complete competition package based on the FSARF. Plus, here in SOCAL we fly it as the Doodle Streak with a much enlarged horizontal tail and reduced vertical tail.

Dan's power system coupled with our tail mod would be a fearsome combo on the Profile circuit.

Use the search feature in this forum to get more information than you ever could absorb on this fine ARF.

My own favorite power for the model is the Saito 30 with the tank mounted inboard of the nose. I got an 8-4-8 break in the engine with an awesome but smooth power surge in maneuvers.

Use the 19, it'll postpone the nose flying off. Plenty of power actually for this light plane. The picture hanging wire used for leadouts held up fine in my plane. My LA25 powered ARF Streak was revelation three seasons back, getting me through Beginner. DD recommends an FP20 setup stock, with a stock muffler. Excellent power. Problem is that the engine is long out of production. Parts no longer easily available. I used .015 60 foot lines. Possible to use shorter lines and .012s. But in my ignorance I used the longer heavier lines. The package pulled the load quite well. 55 foot .012 lines, probably better suited to the 19. I wouldn't use the FP40, unless you want to fly at slow combat speed. The soft nose won't hold up that long using an FP40. Possible to strip the fues and reinforce the nose, doing this and that. The main structure of the fuse is an assembly of hollow balsa. When the nose fell off my ARF Streak (after a season and a half of no fuss no muss flying -- hundred of flights) I pulled the fues apart and inserted carbon rods, epoxy putty etc. The result was a resonance that defied solution. Couldn't get an LA25 or an FP20 or 25 to behave. Run run runaway. Bad luck I guess. By that time the plane had been crashed once or twice. So I moved on to the world Twisters. Definitely a cult. Less and less attractive these days. Considering the prevalence of ARFs.

I'd bolt up the 19. Tack the covering down with a monokote iron. Remove any warps with a heat gun. (If needed.) Leave the fues alone and go fly. There's room for a 3 ounce chicken hopper. That might get you through the full pattern twice.

Make sure you ignore the CG stated in the instructions, You want to balance it about 1" to 1.5" or so in back of the LE.

I have one with an Irvine 25 on 60' lines...Way too fast. I think a 19 would be better. Fantastic plane to get you flying quickly.

Yes that is a good point, DON'T balance according to the instruction manual, but where "pferg" says. I'd go the 1" behind LE at first, you can always shift it farther back later.

I have 2 ARF Flitestreak's one with a Norvel 15 and one with a Norvel 25 all are great stunt trainer's ,and if you don't crash the plane will last. The covering at least stays on. See Ya NEAL

Ditto to all the good
advice already given .
It agrees with my experience
exactly.

Cheers!

If you are hoping for a long life replace the leadouts. If as a newbie you are just wanting to get in the air, mount the Veco 19 with the pads and go fly .012 by 52-60ft lines.

Balance as far forward as possible, will still turn more than you'll need. Another change is to either remove the landing gear over grass or change to two wheels over hardsurface. Put the tank it comes with in your box and use a larger uniflow unless you want to be limited in flight time and experience engine speed up during the flight (it also develops leaks easily).

Edit for non-working digits

>Make sure you ignore the CG stated in the instructions, You
>want to balance it about 1" to 1.5" or so in back of
>the LE.


So this quote is incorrect....."Make sure"???????????

The hollow fuse and light construction make the thing a bit too light..therefore twitchy with the CG at where the plans put them.I dug all the crap out of the fuse before installing the wing and filled it with 1/8" balsa sticks thruout, saturating with CA.It balances 1.5" aft of LE and flies perfectly with a .25.Oh,and the nose nose stays on,too.

I hope this is enlightening to anyone ready to buy one.

Where is the guy always touting Ukeys? The Ukey 40 is probably less work to get into the air (a couple of squirts of rattle-can paint extra, though) than any ARF.

The 40 FP propped back to 11-4 / 5 or so, maybe a bigger elevator / stab if you are ambitious, and you have a pretty decent 500 incher that will last forever, and do all the tricks.

Larry Fulwider

WOW thanks for all the quick replies! I had lots of 1/2a in the past, a Shoestring with a Stallion .35, but that was a LONG time ago. I just want something to get back started on, our field is grass, but I can come up with something to take off from (petra mat) I will probably be alone, so no one to hand launch for me, so convert to two wheels? Is there an easy way to convert the .19 over or just wire the throttle open? And what prop would this like? I would pass on doing this, but it seems like a cheap way to have some fun for now. My main interest is R/C (going fast, Pylon) but I also have a spot for CL, since it is where I started almost 35 years ago.

Probably wire the throttle 2/3 open at first, R/C engines tend to have larger venturi's than C/L flying can handle. You can open it up later if it has too little power. We need all the fuel draw you can get; R/C planes don't pull the G's we do, except, perhaps for the Formula 1 Pylon racers.

so convert to two wheels? Is there an easy
>way to convert the .19 over or just wire the throttle open?
>And what prop would this like?

The single wheel will work but doesn't land as easily. Conversion is easily done using 2 pieces of 3/32 (1/8) wire (single needs 1/8) held on with appropiate size nylon straps and screws passing through the fuselage. Use a piece of brass tubing and/or hardwood to keep the two pieces of wire from rotating in the soft whatever wood of the fuselage.

If I remember right the old charts showed 8/6 to9/6 props for 19 size engines. APC would be a good brand to begin with, cheap, accurate pitch, and well balanced.

The fuel you've been using for RC probably doesn't have enough oil the Veco needs 25+% oil by volume(some calculate using weight which results in a lower % oil than volume does), 50/50 castor/synthetic or closer to 100% castor, nitro in the 5 - 15 range.

OK, looks like two wheels, .012 x 55' lines. I forgot I also have an MDS .18(r/c) and an old green head .15. I think I'll use the MDS, since it has a muffler. Thanks again guys!

The "search" function will net you more information than would seem possible, but the basics are here:

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=203828&mesg_id=203828&listing_type=search

If looking for laughs, try a search with: flite streak dan 1.625. Go for the thread begun by BOB. Great fun!

For those both new and experienced it might be interesting to know that in surfing around a few months ago I discovered that "BOB" had asked the same questions--**before** he flew his new model--on another site. He got some good responses. Some even mentioned some of the things I have written. It would appear as if he ignored the advice he asked for.

And never try to tell me Tower's return policy is not liberal! The dude got a new model out of the deal, and I mention this as it just does not seem fair to the rest of us...

Dan

>The "search" function will net you more information
>than would seem possible, but the basics are here:
>
>http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=203828&mesg_id=203828&listing_type=search
>
>If looking for laughs, try a search with: flite streak dan
>1.625. Go for the thread begun by BOB. Great fun!
>
>For those both new and experienced it might be interesting to
>know that in surfing around a few months ago I discovered that
>"BOB" had asked the same questions--**before** he
>flew his new model--on another site. He got some good
>responses. Some even mentioned some of the things I have
>written. It would appear as if he ignored the advice he asked
>for.
>
>And never try to tell me Tower's return policy is not liberal!
>The dude got a new model out of the deal, and I mention this
>as it just does not seem fair to the rest of us...
>
>Dan
>
>



I also sent one back because CG flaws on the plans and received a new one in return. I sent them the crashed one in a bag.I want you to know that the other guy is not the only one out there that they helped out.How is a new buyer of the kit supposed to set the CG other than what they read on the plans?????.I just happened upon this thread and signed up to give my opinion.

>>The "search" function will net you more
>information
>>than would seem possible, but the basics are here:
>>
>>http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=203828&mesg_id=203828&listing_type=search
>>
>>If looking for laughs, try a search with: flite streak
>dan
>>1.625. Go for the thread begun by BOB. Great fun!
>>
>>For those both new and experienced it might be interesting
>to
>>know that in surfing around a few months ago I discovered
>that
>>"BOB" had asked the same questions--**before**
>he
>>flew his new model--on another site. He got some good
>>responses. Some even mentioned some of the things I have
>>written. It would appear as if he ignored the advice he
>asked
>>for.
>>
>>And never try to tell me Tower's return policy is not
>liberal!
>>The dude got a new model out of the deal, and I mention
>this
>>as it just does not seem fair to the rest of us...
>>
>>Dan
>>
>>
>
>
>
>I also sent one back because CG flaws on the plans and
>received a new one in return. I sent them the crashed one in a
>bag.I want you to know that the other guy is not the only one
>out there that they helped out.How is a new buyer of the kit
>supposed to set the CG other than what they read on the
>plans?????.I just happened upon this thread and signed up to
>give my opinion.
>


Yes, yes, the plans do indeed show the balance point in a position which results in rather sporty flying characteristics.

What mystifies me about all this is that the suggestions for the balance point in the ARF kits are *exactly* what was on the plans for many thousands of Flite Streak kits. I don't recall there being any angst and wringing of hands back then.

I don't begrudge you getting a new kit. But BOB was an old-school jerk, one who had indeed been given the chance to avoid all of his problems. He ignored the advice, in my mind removing himself from the list of freebie-grabbers.

But as you may noticed, I don't set policy for Tower Hobbies.

I hope your experiences turned out all rosy. I have had lots of good times with these old crocks, even in ARF form. Scratch that, possibly due to them being ARFs. Ya shoulda been in Vancouver, B.C. about a year and a half ago. Five or six of us flew Dirtmobile II. No appearance points. No practice flights. Bruce Perry won with something like 511. It was his *second* flight on the model...

Dan


Dan

"rather sporty" is putting it mildly.The "old" balance point is fine on the origibal FS kit, not the Chinese version with a hollow fuse and God knows what else in it that's out of kilter.I found it unflyable.

>"rather sporty" is putting it mildly.The
>"old" balance point is fine on the origibal FS kit,
>not the Chinese version with a hollow fuse and God knows what
>else in it that's out of kilter.I found it unflyable.

Huh?

The balance point on the old and new Flite Streaks are the same: 3.25 from the leading edge.

Tell me again how the construction of the ARF effects the flying characteristics.


Dan

After some engine/muffler swapping, I ended up with an ARF Streak with the CG at approximately the point shown in the ARF instructions. The airplane was certainly responsive (twitchy) with this CG location, but was certainly not unflyable. I am not an accomplished stunt flyer and am in my late sixties, so it was not my skill level that allowed me to fly it. Since I wanted to use it to learn the stunt pattern, I planned to add nose weight to move the CG forward to smooth it out. One of the local expert flyers convinced me to leave the CG in the aft location and reduce the elevator movement until I was comfortable with the airplane. It worked like a champ. The CG is still 3" aft of the LE and it is a real kick to fly.

Steve

You asked about props.... I have tried a few on 19 to 25 engines, mostly on a Peacemaker, I ALWAYS end up with 9x4 , I like Taipans but that may just be me....... NOT a guru.... but reasonable place to start

Huh?

...The balance point on the old and new Flite Streaks are the same: 3.25 from the leading edge...

Dan


Dan,

I just checked my Brodak kit plans and the CG is shown 1" back from the leading edge.

Experienced flyers apparently can handle the 3.25 inch (~ wing high point) but IMHO a newbie or retread may have better success at 1" on a stock plane.

...Dirtmobiles excepted...

George

Hey George,

My Streak was trashed after a season and a half of no hassle service. Happened a few years back. So I can't check the CG. Jack's still flying his Streak with a stock LA40 and muffler. Meaning, I guess, we came out somewhat nose heavy. My mild mannered plane had no trouble with the beginner pattern. I'd start someone off like that. Actually, an LA25 with muffler weighs similarly to an FP20 with muffler. The FP20 might even be heavier. No one's talked about sticking lots of weight on a Flite Streak tail until now.

Dee Rice was doing great flying a Ringmaster at the NATS in Classic. Doing great until he nosed over in the razor grass. So. We all know Ringmasters have their limits. True Expert fliers can look good, flying planes that are not the best for doing the full pattern. Dany B comes to mind.

Why stick with a Streak when going out to compete in the full pattern? If flaps are psychological barrier go to a Primary Force. Potentially a much better pattern plane than a Streak. Orientals, Noblers, Vector 40s a whole slew of superior stunt ARFs are out there now. Brett came up with the Streak/FP20 combo when there wasn't much choice out there for getting into stunt quick and dirty. Now we've got a preponderance of choices. When Ron (the Delie guy) Testa brought out a Vector 40 he skunked me good in Intermediate. Until then we were pretty close. Doubt he got that much better in two weeks.

Actually, a few years back at Brodak, you could see the shift big time, even in beginner. Looking at the line up of competition, Cardinals, Smoothies, Noblers, Pathfinders etc, I knew I was in for it using my ARF Streak.

I have absolutely no idea how I did it, but my post was, uh, posted twice. Sorry.

Dan

The single wheel works fine if you put tip skids or small wheels on the tips. I used 5/8" dia wheels with .055 wire struts about 2" long.

don Burke
Menifee, CA
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming, WOO HOO, What a Ride!

If you ever bust up (of course; this won't happen) the fuselage, try making a new fuse with solid balsa, and add 1" to the nose and 2" to the tail, and of course; use two wheels. I did this using a Fox 25 and was pleasantly surprised. A very "non twitchy" smooth flying airplane. Glen

Ya know, Dirtmobile II has lasted a good long time and I have the basics--another ARF kit--for Dirtmobile III. I'm thinking it might be fun to add enough lead to the tail of the former to get the balance point back to built-up kit and ARF specs.

I'll report back later, but for now I am predicting it won't be all that hard to fly. Okay, I do not expect it to perform even a mildly reasonable AMA Stunt pattern, but for show-biz flying it ought to be fine.

Uh, maybe.

Dan

Look, I flew my ARF Streak with an LA25, stock muffler. My friend flew his with an LA40 and a stock muffler. His was great fun, balls out, doing improvised non-sense. Mine got me through Beginner, no muss, no fuss. WE NEVER CHECKED THE CG.

>Look, I flew my ARF Streak with an LA25, stock muffler. My
>friend flew his with an LA40 and a stock muffler. His was
>great fun, balls out, doing improvised non-sense. Mine got me
>through Beginner, no muss, no fuss. WE NEVER CHECKED THE CG.



Could you check it and let Dan know. I don't want him to crack his model.

Glen,I like this idea.Will start to make a new sized fuz for when the inevitable happens.

Duane
See classifieds for a nice stunt ready FP 20. Perfect on a Streak or Ringmaster. Be sure to use muffler pressure-it seems to help with consistency with the FP 20 and 25's.
Jim

I will give a lot of credit to the Flite Streak ARF and LA 25 combo. A very decent flying airplane to get back into the air. I have had both the Ukey and Flite Streak ARF. The Flite Streak in my oppinion is definetely the better flyer though probably not as rugged. I never crashed either and ended up giving both away as I moved up the food chain. Getting booted up from intermediate to Advanced with the Flite Streak. Price and appearance by far go to the Flite Streak. You can pick up a couple of the Flite Streaks through Tower and use their stupid saver codes and end up with the planes for less then fifty dollars with free shipping. I saw a Flite Streak on Tower's Scratch and dent the other day for about 35 dollars minus the fuel tank which is junk any way. Use a GRW 3 oz
which is perfect for the LA 25 and APC 9-4 prop.

Yeah Mike I got the $36 scratch & Dent one. Should be here this week. It will be my 3rd FS ARF.I put a Fox .25 on one and loved it. I put an ASP .25 on another and it was great. Might try Dan's OS on this one.
David G. Miller
Pasco, WA

>Yeah Mike I got the $36 scratch & Dent one. Should be
>here this week. It will be my 3rd FS ARF.I put a Fox .25 on
>one and loved it. I put an ASP .25 on another and it was
>great. Might try Dan's OS on this one.
>David G. Miller
> Pasco, WA

David,

As to your last comment--Of course! I mean, both Brett and I have gone bald so great is the stress involved in promoting the 21FP!

Plus you have seen mine run! Yes, including the problems I had with an errant tune-up during the last Fall Follies. Anomalies, my man, nothing more...

Wait until you see the finish on my newest model, the world's second-best Flite Streak!

Dan

Bought it today, and some .018x52' lines, there wasn't just a lot of choice, no 55' or .012 stuff. I'll try the MDS .18 on it first, unless I find a nice deal on an engine Saturday at the swap meet in Weatherford (TX)

>Bought it today, and some .018x52' lines, there wasn't just a
>lot of choice, no 55' or .012 stuff. I'll try the MDS .18 on
>it first, unless I find a nice deal on an engine Saturday at
>the swap meet in Weatherford (TX)

It would be very much worth searching out some .015x60 lines. I think you will get a big improvement in performance over the super-short 018s. I don't know about the MDS 18 but the 20FP will fly the plane at really short lap times on 52' lines.

I use .015x60-62 foot lines on the Skyray (almost exactly the same drag, etc, as the Flite Streak) and it's doing about 4.6-4.8 sec. It pulls hard enough that I would be a little concerned about .012 in less-than-perfect shape.

Brett 

If I use something bigger than the .18, I'll get 60' lines, these were only $8.00 so no big loss.

>If I use something bigger than the .18, I'll get 60' lines,
>these were only $8.00 so no big loss.

Sure, might at well try it. But part of my point was that modern 19ish sized motors put out as much power as older 35s, so there's no need to go to such short lines just to get them to fly. I also flew the Skyray on a OS 15FP with acceptable results on the same .015x60 lines I had been using. The 15FP is a pretty mild modern sport motor, and it works about as well as a Fox 29, or something like that.

Brett

>>If I use something bigger than the .18, I'll get 60'
>lines,
>>these were only $8.00 so no big loss.
>
> Sure, might at well try it. But part of my point was that
>modern 19ish sized motors put out as much power as older 35s,
>so there's no need to go to such short lines just to get them
>to fly. I also flew the Skyray on a OS 15FP with acceptable
>results on the same .015x60 lines I had been using. The 15FP
>is a pretty mild modern sport motor, and it works about as
>well as a Fox 29, or something like that.
>
> Brett

I'd like to try a Skyray with an FP .15
Knowing how a light Ringmasters flys with one of these motors, I think most of us would be quite surprised. I think I would fly it on .012 lines (this is what I have been using on the Ringmaster).

Larry, NorCal Circle Jerks

If the modern engines put out more, and the .18 will fly this, I'll use it. It is a little narrow on the mount, but I think it will work. I was going to use this on an LR1, but I don't think it will be fast enough for me. If the 52' lines make me dizzy, I'll grab some 60's I don't think it will compare to my younger days of 1/2a stuff on 8-10' lines! I was younger then, I don't think I can turn that fast now... Thanks again for the advice, it's been a great help.

The very nice FP 20 is still available in the classified section.
My experience which is quite broad with these engines indicate the FP 20 is to be preferred over the FP25 and it's clones.
The FP 25 is simply too much horsepower for comfortable flight on Streaks, Ringmasters, etc. It's difficult to have too much power but in this instance, it is difficult to slow the FP25's down enough for comfortable flight.
Dee Rice and David Gresens blocked the boost port on their FP25s and restricted the venturi with multiple layers of panty hose on their remarkable ultra light Ringmaster S-1's. They managed to get a nice 4-2 break out of the 25's at reasonable lap times before switching to the Brodak 25's which are slightly lighter and will do the nice 4-2 run without excessive speed.
I found I could accomplish pretty much the same thing using the FP20, pretty much as Dirty Dan has described letting it run in a steady two stroke where it was most comfortable but still with reasonable lap times of around 4.8 with 60' of .012's and a 9-4 APC.
A great combo IMO with the Streak, Ringmaster, or any similar ship.
Jim

I just picked one up at one of the local hobby shops for 35.00.
I used to build these from scratch as a kid. I plan on putting a 35 FP on it and doing a little super slow combat. I've always just balanced it at the spar and they would fly just fine. I mount the engine last to avoid having to weight down the airplane.