Still building models in OZ!

Been a bit quiet lately but still chugging away building a new stunter. So many old designs still look great on the end of the lines doing their thing.

Always liked the Louis Grondal "version" of the "Nobler" when I first saw it in the early 60s. I decided to build another larger one for old faithfull MVVS 51 using the Russian (or is it Ukranian) pull-a-part techniques. This one was carefully designed by running Paul Tupker's plan through a plan printer at 118% making it just that bit bigger than the older one I had in 2000 at 115%.

Covering is Polyspan.

HH


Wing spar joiner

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Ready for dope and paint.

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The model broken down into bitsNpieces for transport. NO! The covering doesn't come off as well


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Hello Dallas
Nice machine work and plane.could you post pictures of the parts intalled in the wing? are they tied with thread to the spars?Thanks.
Juan

Pleasse tell more about the "pull apart" system. (how it works and where to get it)
Thanks
BTW, great looking plane.

GUY BLANKINSHIP
AMA 14272

>Pleasse tell more about the "pull apart" system.
>(how it works and where to get it)
>Thanks
>BTW, great looking plane.
>
>GUY BLANKINSHIP
>AMA 14272

Guy, Juan.

The mainspar joiner has the 3 parts machined from aluminium. The centre piece is trapped between the fuz sides as well as being held to a ply former with 4 screws. Top and bottom lugs protrude through the sides for the wings to attach with 4mm screws top and bottom. The wing has sub spars from spruce or similar timber around 10" long epoxied and wrapped with strong thread through the holes. The main spars are then glued on top of these sub spars. The wing is built with this centre section all together so it's just the same as building a conventional wing in one piece. The trailing edge is cut out when complete.

There is a smaller single trailing edge unit which has 3mm screws from the bottom of the wing to hold it in place.

The aluminium plate starts at 10mm thick and is machined to an "L" section of only 0,75mm thick except where the holding screws and bellcrank is.

WHERE DO YOU GET IT? Straight off my milling machine! If you know some friendly machinist over there they should be able to knock one up for you for a case of beer It takes a couple of hours for the whole thing on a manual machine.

Also, the whole control system is simplicity itself BUT you can't see it as some on here feel that only balljoints work I tend to like making everything myself as it gives just that bit more satisfaction when it lifts off that first time.

HH

Hi Dallas
What a great project!! Nice looking ship. Your machine work looks fantastic! Are you a machinist by profession? Hope you post additional information and photos. Is the tail also a take apart method with separate halves as well? or does it bolt on to the fuselage as one piece? Hope you'll post information on the control system itself including how you get it apart if not here then at another site.

Bet you'll feel a Great satisfaction when it lifts off for the first time.

Gary Akers

Superb work.

Mike! See you in a couple of months again. Hope you have ordered some good weather.

DH

With the help of Henk de Jong and LeRoy Black, we have submitted the AMA Special(ask Louis Grondal called it)/Grondal Nobler(as everyone else called it, to Flying Models for publication. Plans are CAD by Watt Moore of South Carolina.

Would be good to see a real size "AMA Special" Allen. Yes, that is the name I first saw it as and took a liking to it back then.

I built a couple of "something like it" ones in the mid 60s for Merco 35s but only from that little plan in Aeromodeller. I got hold of Paul Tupker's plan from Steve Blake (Maple Models, Luton) when I was in the UK in 1976 but never got past cutting the ribs (still have them!! Maybe next year!!). I think Steve Blake's "Starmaker" was actually a Grondal Nobler with a different cockpit/rear deck.

HH

Hi Dallas

Brian Turner was a friend of Steve Blake and they both flew Starmakers

Here are a couple of pictures of Brians - now getting a little long in the tooth (the model not Brian although.....)

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Lovely model. Lovely workmanship. Lovely engineering.

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"The expression of beauty is in direct ratio to the power of conception the artist has acquired." -Gustave Courbet

Hi Gary. Been away at a social "Veterans Gathering" a couple of hundred kms north of here. The wind was too much for much flying but plenty of "BS" went on and although we had our butts frozen off, a great weekend. I think it had started snowing another 300km north of where we were flying from some of the reports.

In answer to some of the questions:

Yes, I am a metal machinist. Spent most of the "real life" as a toolmaker in rail, aircraft and assosiated industries and then teaching the stuff for the last 28 years. Now happily playing on my own machinery at home making models and, at times, $$$$$ as the skills for this trade are disappearing due to manufacturing going off shore and there aren't many apprentices being trained anymore hence a shortage of skilled tradesmen .

The model:

The tailplane is one piece held in with 2 #4-40 screws. A 1/8" plywood piece locates it between the fuz sides.

The fin:

The fin is held in place over the tailplane with 2 #4-40 screws. The rudder has a 0.025" wire slipped through the Dubro hinges (pins removed of course!). The wire is held in place with the rudder offset linkage balljoint on the fuz.

Control system

The bellcrank is made from 1/16" gauge plate (carbon tool steel similar to drill rod) with bronze bushings silver brazed in position. Likewise, the horns are made from the same material. Balljoints? No, I don't use them. Maybe I don't do enough flying to wear the controls out these days. I do use a carbon fibre push rod between flap and elevator with spring wire keepers to hold them in place. Permanently fixed on flap horn on the new model (previously also clipped to flap horn as wing came out of the bottom of fuz) and by using a wire hook, the rod can be lifted so the tailplane horn can be slipped into place. All simple and effective, low cost and for the last 10 years, never failed!



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Tank:

May as well add the clunk tank again for those who missed it last time! Makes it easy to replace the tubing this way rather than taking the back out of the tank. At least this one can have that task done at the field.
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Will be around the UK/Europe from 20th July to 1st week in September but after that if you really beg Gary, I might make you a wing joiner!

HH

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A couple of clearer pics of the pieces lashed to the spars with strong thread.

HH

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Well I finally got it together with only the leadouts to be clipped in. Looks like about 58oz. Just have to wait for this %^&**! wind to stop for a few test flights now. Thought that since Allen Brickhaus riminded me that the old "Grondal Nobler" was first known to us as the "AMA SPECIAL" I'd better name this one that way with a + on it.

HH

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