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Ukey 40 Trimming Question

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Peter Hess · Jul 08, 2008 07:07 PM

#0 source
As you know, the Ukey has the bell crank mounted on the top of the fuselage with the lead-outs external on the top of the wing. The entire plane, except for the top portion of the vertical fin, is, therefore, under the bellcrank and trying to get anything resembling a proper vertical C/G is impossible. Even with 5/8 ounce of tip weight in addition to that which is built-in the outboard tip is still up in level flight.

To counter this condition it occurs to me that adding either a trim tab or the oft-mentioned piece of trailing edge stock on the top of the outboard wing might help. Does this sound like a reasonable thing to try? If not, do you have other suggestions or advice?

Thanks in advance for any help you might give.
Peter Hess
Canton, CT

Kim Mortimore · Jul 08, 2008 07:22 PM

#1 source
>As you know, the Ukey has the bell crank mounted on the top
>of the fuselage with the lead-outs external on the top of the
>wing. The entire plane, except for the top portion of the
>vertical fin, is, therefore, under the bellcrank and trying to
>get anything resembling a proper vertical C/G is impossible.
>Even with 5/8 ounce of tip weight in addition to that which is
>built-in the outboard tip is still up in level flight.
>
>To counter this condition it occurs to me that adding either a
>trim tab or the oft-mentioned piece of trailing edge stock on
>the top of the outboard wing might help. Does this sound like
>a reasonable thing to try? If not, do you have other
>suggestions or advice?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you might give.

Peter,
Have you flown it inverted? The high wingtip in level flight can be either a tipweight problem or a warp. I bought a Ukey once which had a wing warped so badly that I just put it back in the box. You can also sight warps very accurately with a method I can describe to you if you are interested. Also.....

Move the bellcank to the underside of the wing, where it is closer to the vertical CG (assuming you have landing gear) and is not as unsightly.

If I were using trailing edge stock, I would put it on the underside of the inboard wing. I always put it under the wing (less ugly), and I have had consistently great luck with this method.

Hope this helps,
Kim Mortimore

Jerry Eichten · Jul 08, 2008 09:08 PM

edited#2 source
From the FLYING NOTES section of my J & J Sales Ukey assembly instructions:

"If you find the outboard wing to be flying other than level, you can correct by adding a small 'flap' near the wing tip. Do this by slicing the wing core with a razor blade or other sharp blade to the depth of about one inch and four inches long. Do not cut the longer length all the way through the wing, only about an eight of an inch deep. Then gently pull the 'flap' up about 1/8" if the wing is riding high, or down if the wing is flying low. Place a small piece of balsa into the slot to maintain the angle, then seal the flap with clear wrapping tape or other self-adhesive type of tape. Fly again and re-adjust if necessary."

Larry F · Jul 08, 2008 10:25 PM

edited#3 source
Your analysis is correct. With the stock vertical CG you will never get it level upright and inverted with the speed variation during cornering.

Simply put the bellcrank on the bottom, and move the tip guide (a minor pain in the . . . neck)

Add an adjustable tab for fine tuning. Mine also took additional wing tip weight.

Larry Fulwider

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ryancompetition2 · Jul 09, 2008 09:59 AM

#4 source
Peter,
That is primarily due to the leadout tab being on top of the wing. Even the original Ukie, which I have in my garage, had that issue. The most effective solution is to drill the wingtip and put a guide in it so the leadouts come out on the center of the wingtip vertically. -Todd

Sportsman.29 · Jul 09, 2008 07:07 PM

#5 source
Hi Todd!

I have a Ukey .35 that I am going to fly with one of the NEW Enya .25's... so ... I was wondering if you could supply a pic or two of what you did with regard to the "leadout guide" set vertically? I will then make the appropriate mods. THANKS!!
Sportsman.29/Tommyp

Big Country Joe · Jul 09, 2008 07:50 PM

#6 source
If moving the BC and leadouts on the Ukey from the top of the wing to the bottom is so needed why are almost all speed limit combat planes made with the BC etc on top? At the Brodak Fly-In this year all I could see had the mounts and leadouts on top and they flew just fine.
Joe
Never Give up! Never Surrender!

Kim Mortimore · Jul 09, 2008 08:03 PM

edited#7 source
>If moving the BC and leadouts on the Ukey from the top of the
>wing to the bottom is so needed why are almost all speed limit
>combat planes made with the BC etc on top? At the Brodak
>Fly-In this year all I could see had the mounts and leadouts
>on top and they flew just fine.
>Joe
>Never Give up! Never Surrender!

No landing gear and (sometimes) no mufflers to lower the vertical center of gravity on a SL Combat plane. And it's more suggested than needed.

Kim

Larry F · Jul 10, 2008 08:19 AM

edited#8 source
Peter –

Probably no one has covered vertical CG in more detail than Al Rabe, because of his scale-looking, dihedral-winged stunters. Al has a simple, practical, test to find the correct leadout location in relation to the vertical CG:
>[photo not recovered: 27828.jpg]
This pic is from topic 301170, the entirety of which is worth reading. (that is not the only thread in which Al has discussed vertical leadout location, dihedral, and vertical CG – do a search if interested) Vertical leadout location is not too complicated if you think about it a moment. Al has shown this picture of other planes; the wings and wheels are always “parallel” to the vertical wall. As you can easily picture, when the plane pictured flies around the circle, the plane can fly with level wings both upright and inverted with the correct wing tip weight.

If you hang a stock U-Key against the wall as Al has done, the outboard tip will be further from the wall than the inboard tip. You can simulate the effect of additional wing tip weight (when flying upright) by pushing the outboard wing closer to the wall with your finger. You can simulate the effect of additional wing tip weight while inverted by pushing the outboard tip away from the wall! Whoa down! Clearly, you can’t get level flight both upright and inverted with additional wing tip weight – it helps to level the wings upright, and exacerbates the problem while inverted, and has a near zero effect overhead.

A trim tab alone will only sort of work. Since all the forces involved (aerodynamic pressure from the trim tab, centrifugal force, line tension, gravity) all vary with speed and orientation of the airplane in relation to gravity, you can get the forces in balance at one constant speed, line tension, and level flight both upright and inverted (a 1 g vector of vertical gravity either way) – that is, if you don’t do any maneuvers, the wings will stay level at that one speed during level flight.

The only true solution is to locate the leadouts in line with the vertical CG. Al accomplishes this by raising the leadouts using wing dihedral. He could have more easily left out the dihedral and simply put the bellcrank and leadouts on top of the wing – hardly an acceptable solution when building a world-class stunt ship.

There is no inherent (CG) advantage to a leadout guide in the wing tip, above the wing tip, or below the wing tip – it depends solely on where that leadout exit is placed in relation to the vertical CG. That is, Al’s stunters have a vertical CG location issue the exact opposite of the U-Key. So raising the guide is his solution. Lowering it is ours. If Al had a U-Key, I guarantee the leadout guide would be under the wing (or maybe he'd add anhedral ??)

Check this out by hanging your U-Key against a wall from various locations near the wing tip, then locate your leadout guide where it needs to go with 100% confidence the problem is solved.

Larry Fulwider

PS: My modified plane in post # 3 did in fact hang vertically in the "wall test" after re-locating the tip guide. As you can see in the center pic, the leadout guide is under the wing. It flew level in all orientations with the trim tab pretty straight after the final trimmming.

LF

Peter Hess · Jul 10, 2008 02:11 PM

#9 source
Thank you all for your observations, comments, and suggestions. Special thanks, however, to Larry for his pictures and the clear and helpful discussion. And, Joe: I agree with Larry that refining the vertical CG is a suggestion rather than a requirement, particularly for a hacker like me. The Ukey is a great contribution to C/L and I really enjoy both of mine.
Peter Hess
Canton, CT

Steve Helmick · Jul 10, 2008 03:00 PM

#10 source
With most desireing a 2 wheel gear and a heavy muffler, the bottom mounted bellcrank really makes sense. As does Todd's suggestion, regardless of where the BC is mounted. Routing the pushrod is simpler with the BC on top, however.

I wonder if the Jim Pearson produced Ukey's have revised LO positions, 'cause one of the standard fixes was to put the rear LO halfway between the holes on the J&J units.

Ideally, I'd mount a 2 wheel gear, put the BC on the bottom, put in about 3/4" dihederal, add an adjustable LO guide, and a carbon tube sheathed, straight wire pushrod to a horn on the bottom of the elevator, rigged front LO for up. You could add a tubular tipweight box real easy into the foam wing. [photo not recovered: sipcof.gif] Steve

Steve Helmick
Renton, Washington
USA

Kim Mortimore · Jul 10, 2008 03:10 PM

#11 source

Steve,

How would you add dihedral to a Ukey?

Kim Mortimore

Steve Helmick · Jul 10, 2008 06:03 PM

#13 source
>
>Steve,
>
>How would you add dihedral to a Ukey?
>
>Kim Mortimore

Well, you'd need to saw or sand a slight angle on the root of each wing panel, test fit it on the joiner dowels as usual, and then glue it up (one panel at a time!). Table saw or Radial Arm saw would be my choice. I think it would cut the spars ok, and melt its way through the foam and film alright. Might need to razor blade the film first.

If you decide to change to a bottom BC, you might want to saw/sand away the existing leadout guide before epoxying the panels to the fuselage, but mark where the LO's should go, before doing that, or install a new adjustable LO Guide on the opposite side of the tip.
Steve

Steve Helmick
Renton, Washington
USA

Steve Scott · Jul 10, 2008 07:12 PM

#14 source
>
>Steve,
>
>How would you add dihedral to a Ukey?
>
>Kim Mortimore

Dunno but my example seems to have dihedral (at least in the outboard wing panel). Looks a bit weird when flying but seems to fly OK.

GUY_B_JR · Jul 10, 2008 05:09 PM

#12 source
I have Jim Pearson's UKEY 15 and 40. The UKEY 15 has the bellcrank on the underside of the fuselage and flys perfectly level with a LA-S 15 on 52' lines. When I ordered my 40, I told Jim that the controls on the underside greatly enhanced its looks, let alone its flying habits. When I opened my box, jokes on me, the controls are on the top. Haven't assembled it yet. Will post how it flys when that time comes.

GUY BLANKINSHIP
AMA 14272

Peter Hess · Aug 11, 2008 02:52 PM

#15 source
Once again I would like to thank those of you who took the time to respond to my inquiry about overcoming the vertical CG problem with my Ukey 40.

Before taking the advice about putting the bellcrank on the bottom of the fuselage I did try taping a rather substantial piece of trailing edge stock on the top of the outboard wing near the tip. It did help and allowed me to remove some of the extra tip weight that I had added to counter the radically low vertical CG. However, and not surprisingly, Larry Fulwider was spot on when he said: "A trim tab alone will only sort of work." The plane started doing some very strange dances in hard outside turns,so that was not a fix.

So, I moved the bellcrank to the bottom of the fuselage and was able to retain the "horn" on the top of the stab. By golly, it worked. I was delighted with the flights I got after the change until, that is, this less than expert pilot forgot that the bottom of the second outside loop of the horizontal eights is supposed to be five feet above the surface instead of six inches below. But, it's a Ukey and it's tough: glue the fin back on and replace the NVA and it will be back in the air (unfortunately with the same less than competent pilot).
Peter Hess
Canton, CT