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My engine won't start.

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Gary Weaver · Jul 19, 2008 08:33 AM

edited#0 source
I am ready to do some tests. I am planning to use my leaf blower to supply 150 mph air to do my wind tunnel test on some streamline wing shapes. I spent 30 minutes trying to get the leaf blower started yesterday. Spark plug tests good and it is getting a good spark. Fuel tank is full on new gas. Gas or starting fluid in the air cleaner or spark plug hole and it will not fire. New spark plug, gas or starting fluid in the carburator or spark plug hole it still will not fire even though the spark plug is getting a good spark. I give up.

When I was a kid 45 years ago I remember I could put gas in an engine that had been setting round for years and it would start. The lawn mower would start, mini bike would start, go cart would start, spare engine that had been setting under the work bench for 5 years would start. Now days you use a lawn mower, weed eater, leaf blower, one summer then put it in the garage all winter and the next summer it won't start. I bought this leaf blower brand new last summer and used it about 5 times now it won't start after setting in the garage all winter. I have 6 weed eaters that won't start laying in a pile I bought an electric weed eater it still starts and runs fine every time. I bought an electric chain saw too it still runs great. I have 5 push mowers only 1 of them will start and run and the one that still runs sounds like a hit and miss engine it fires about every 2nd or 3rd stroke and blows black smoke out of the muffler. After taking the carburator apart and cleaning it out it still won't run right. There are no needle valve adjustments on carburators any more. This is making me mad. I bought a 30 year old lawn mower at a yard sale, I took it apart put in new rings and did a valve job now it runs excellent, much better than the new stuff. I am tired of the new junk that is for sale in the stores that is designed to be a throw away you can not repair or fix anything anymore. My grandfather had the same lawn mower for 20 years what every happen to quality made products?

rootbeard · Jul 19, 2008 08:55 AM

#1 source
My guess it because of it being a 2 cycle.
See if the muffler is full of crud? Maybe remove the muffler and see if it will fire. But don't run it without the muffler.

Just a thought.
Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

Check out my Blog@
http://rootbeard.rcuniverse.com
A link to a slide show of a fun day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-_sR0ZydSQ

rootbeard · Jul 19, 2008 09:05 AM

#2 source
On a side note, I have been using the same lawn mower for more than 16 years. Toro. 5.5 hp recycle walk behing mower.
I change the oil in it every year, clean or replace the air filter as needed. It still starts on the first pull every time. (one flip starts LOL)
The only issue I have had is, I needed to have the drive belt replace 2 yrs ago after going like 100k miles, and it is hard to change the drive speeds. But I keep it in 2nd gear so it does not matter.

I also have a John Deere rider that I got from my brother-in-law when he closed his lawn business. I have been using it for about 10 years. Nothing runs like a Deere.

Now a Warm or flooded C/L engine is a pain in the arsh


Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

Check out my Blog@
http://rootbeard.rcuniverse.com
A link to a slide show of a fun day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-_sR0ZydSQ

downunder · Jul 19, 2008 10:32 AM

#3 source
Try connecting another spark plug in series with the one fitted to the engine and see if it gives a good spark. If the ignition system is getting weak you can have a good spark with the plug out of the engine but compression puts more load on the spark plug. This simulates the old spark plug testers where the plug was screwed into a chamber which was filled with compressed air. I had an exact same problem with a weed eater and the "plug in series" proved the point where a specialist's testing machine failed to find it.

scooterjay · Jul 19, 2008 11:43 AM

#4 source
stuck reed. take the carb off, pull the reed cage out and clean it. reassemble and it will start. there were few reed valve 2 strokes around in the yard fifty years ago.
"i ain't got it! really, i ain't got it!!!"

GLBahrman · Jul 19, 2008 12:07 PM

#5 source
>stuck reed. take the carb off, pull the reed cage out and
>clean it. reassemble and it will start. there were few reed
>valve 2 strokes around in the yard fifty years ago.

Scooterjay has the right idea. The reeds get stuck from sitting and will not alow fuel to flow into the carb. A simple cleaning and you will be on your way.
Greg L. Bahrman

Gary Weaver · Jul 19, 2008 01:09 PM

edited#6 source
>>stuck reed. take the carb off, pull the reed cage out
>and
>>clean it. reassemble and it will start. there were few
>reed
>>valve 2 strokes around in the yard fifty years ago.
>
>Scooterjay has the right idea. The reeds get stuck from
>sitting and will not alow fuel to flow into the carb. A simple
>cleaning and you will be on your way.
>Greg L. Bahrman


Ok, stuck reed valve may be the problem. It makes me mad that I have to work on something every time I want to use it that is why I have 5 push mowers. I mow the yard one summer then put the mower in the garage and the next summer it won't start. New spark plug does not fix the problem, new air filter, change the oil, sharpen the blade.
I do NOT want to waste all my free time fixing stuff so I push the lawn mower out behind the garage and go buy another $139.00 lawn mower at Lowe's. Now I have 5 push mowers behind the garage, a pile of about 6 weed eater, 1 chain saw, and a leaf blower that won't run.

I did finally get my garden tiller to run after spending a whole day working on it. The push button gas primer no longer works, the choke no longer works, the rope rewinder no longer works and it won't run with the air filter attached. I think time would have been better spent to buy a brand new 5 hp briggs engine that would have been only 2 hours work compaired to the 10 hours I spent getting the original engine to run. The only lawn mower I have that runs is the 30 year old mower that I rebuilt it has a metal fuel tank and all metal parts. I would gladly pay a few dollars extra for a quality made product.
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Mt Carmel had another earthquake the other day 3.2 on the scale. That makes 40 after shocks according to the new paper. I guess the big city of Mt Carmel Illinois is not news to the rest of the country you never hear about it on TV news. Weather for cast for Mt. Carmel, Later tonight...DARK. Continued Dark all night. Then early tomorrow morning...sparsely scattered light, continued light all day.

Wingnut · Jul 19, 2008 01:11 PM

#7 source
Gary - - - I'll share some insight I've gotten over the years which
I think is the root of the problem.
I've always had a garage-full of engines, mostly motorcycles but
of course the necessary lawnmowers, weedwhackers and a generator set.
I *never* had any problems with any of these things sitting over a Winter until 2 things occurred.
1) Plastic gas tanks!!
2) MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether) added to the gasoline as an
"oxygenator". I firmly believe that this chemical leaches something
out of the plastic that gums up the jets in carburetors, float
valves, reed valves in the case of 2-strokes, and primer pumps
where applicable.
I had a Jacobsen snow blower until I moved to AZ 3 years ago. It was
a 1967 model, *steel gas tank*, and it would sit all Summer and most
of the year until that "big snow". Always started on the old gas!
Bought a Troybilt "Chipper/Vac", and every time I wanted to use it,
I had to take the carburetor apart and clean the crap out!
It had a nice big plastic gas tank!
I installed a fuel shut-off valve on it (like a motorcycle petcock)
and that helped - - - - most manufacturers are too cheap to install them at the factory.
If your non-starting leaf blower has a plastic gas tank, I'm betting that any fuel left in it over the Winter has reacted with the plastic
and gummed up your reeds and primer pump (if it has one).
Just my opinion - - - (your mileage may vary).
Dennis T.
Dennis A. Truxal

Alan Hahn · Jul 19, 2008 04:16 PM

#10 source
One related item in the gas now is ethanol. Most of us know that in Model flying that there is fuel tubing for gas type engines, and another for methanol (glow) fuel.

I think a lot of the problems we have with older 2-stroke powered garden equipment is that most fuel now comes with 10% ethanol, and I think this can cause the fuel tubing (and a lot of other plastic material) to fail, gumming up the carb and destroying the fuel tubing itself.

The new stuff (last 3-4 years anyway) seems to be made with materials that can tolerate the alcohol.
Alan

David Hoover · Jul 19, 2008 08:42 PM

#15 source
I think there's more in play here than a plastic tank. I have a roto-tiller that's now 8 or 9 years old equipped with a 5 horse Briggs & Stratton and a big plastic tank. Whatever gas is in the tank the last time I use it in the fall stays there until spring. In the spring I choke it and it starts on the first or second pull. Other than change the oil, I have done nothing to it - I may have changed the spark plug once, but nothing more.

I think that $139 for a mower says it all.

Best, Hoovie

Life is simple. Eat. Sleep. Fly

Bill Adair · Jul 19, 2008 01:16 PM

#8 source
"I am tired of the new junk that is for sale in the stores that is designed to be a throw away you can not repair or fix anything anymore. My grandfather had the same lawn mower for 20 years what every happen to quality made products?"


Everything is made in China now!

I bought a Sears lawn mower in 1963, and used it for almost twenty years! It had a Tecumseh two cycle engine, and a notched pulley for a starter rope. Wheel height was adjusted by removing the axles, and relocating them to other holes in the frame.

Amazingly, the engine never wore out, but the steel body of the mower started cracking across high stress areas, and I finally got tired of fixing them with bolts and big steel washers on both sides of the cracked areas.

That mower was one hundred percent American made, and possibly the best Twenty dollars I ever spent!

"Made in America" still means something to me!

Bill

Minnesotamodeler · Jul 19, 2008 03:43 PM

#9 source
Gary, as long as you keep buying $139 mowers, you will keep adding to your pile...double or triple that and get some quality.

Every Fall, I drain the tank and run the engine completely dry of fuel on my Lawn Boy 2-cycle mower. Next Spring, I fill it up, choke it and it starts first or 2nd pull. Been doing that for about 15 years now.

My snowblower has a plug-in electric starter that is the berries...it hand-starts fine when warm, but there's nothing worse than trying to start a cold snowblower in below-zero temps with nothing but a pullrope. Plug it in the wall, hit the button, let it crank 'til it fires, go blow the snow. If it stalls out in the driveway, it restarts easily with the rope because then it's warmed up. The guy that came up with that oughtta get a medal.

OS32 · Jul 19, 2008 04:46 PM

#11 source
Gary, any chance that it's flooded?
John Leidle

rootbeard · Jul 19, 2008 04:47 PM

#12 source
Everyone keeps talking about snow blowers. What are those things???

Man is it ever hot here in the south!!!
Whew!

Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

Check out my Blog@
http://rootbeard.rcuniverse.com
A link to a slide show of a fun day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-_sR0ZydSQ

Aerowrench · Jul 19, 2008 04:49 PM

#13 source
Try fresh gas.

Clogged carb., air filter or stuck reed as stated above.

"made in China" -the most likely culprit.

Air, Fuel, Compression, Spark - simple. It's one of these 4
-Doug

ama21835 · Jul 19, 2008 04:59 PM

edited#14 source
I had a similar problem with a Toro lawn mower that hadn't been run in five years.

The Toro chop recommended Ether starting fluid. I tried it. I liked it. A one-flipper.

russell shaffer · Jul 19, 2008 09:56 PM

#16 source
You might try some Sea Foam. It sounds like snake oil, but it has worked wonders for me. Wal Mart carries it in the auto department and so do most auto parts stores. Follow the directions on the label. It's about $6. What do you have to lose? If it doesn't work you can holler at me.
Russell Shaffer
Klamath Falls, Oregon
Just north of the California border on Highway 97

Circlepilot · Jul 20, 2008 12:05 AM

#17 source
I bought a new 14hp Craftsman lawn tractor for my business in 1996...I used it to tow airplanes (full scale) from Cessna 150s to 18 passenger Fairchild Metros...Yes! Metros and used it to cut the grass around my hangar. Ran it on straight 100LL AvGas, changed the oil on a regular basis, tires, spark plugs, belts and a transaxle. Used every weekday until 2005, at which time it finally threw a rod while "puffing" up a hill. All the new parts have been bought, just waiting for the motivation to put it back together. By far...one of the best mechanical devices I've ever bought. Gary...can you spell Jinx????
Norm
Circlepilot

Charlie Chan · Jul 20, 2008 12:25 AM

#18 source
I took my green machine 22,which I rebuild from commercial junk,
Pressed the primer bulb several times.
set the throttle,turned on the choke And pulled abou3-4 pulls .
I don,t even try to get a start the first couple of pulls.
About the fifth pull . it takes off and from then on its first pull
the rest of the day.
The same goes for my Echo blower.
My green machine hedge trimmer
My green machine trimmers (other two)
My huskvarna saw is different. I put choke on ,turn on ignition
and pull seven or eight times(it has no primer bulb).
At the first pop push the choke in an pull. Off it goes.

Why don,t I have problems ?
fuel mid grade
oil-most important Optimol is good; proper ratio
Follow starting instructions
Never try to start unit cold at W.O.T.
set at slight throttle opening.

How bout this
start grandson Honda quarter midgets (gx 120)
engines cold ,first or second try.
Without a choke or covering the intake with your hand
The choke is removed for performance reasons.
No squirted prime no nothing.
Don,t beleive it?
Come over and I,ll show you.
Charlie Pate