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Stooge Security

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Al Rabe · Jul 23, 2008 11:33 AM

edited#0 source
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I am extremely cautious about stooge restraint of my airplanes when flying alone, which is nearly always. The Snaggletooth and Cavalier Mustangs have Ro-Jett .76s. The Critical Mass and BBFB Bearcat both have Saito .91s. If any one of these carbon propped airplanes were to get loose from the stooge while I am kneeling in front of them there would be injuries, possibly so severe, that I might not be able to transport myself to a hospital. In short, there is a large element of unease and a very healthy respect for the damage possible when starting these monsters.

This is my system for tailwheel/stooge restraint. The photograph above shows most of the steps that I take to restrain stooge running airplanes.

First the tailwheel wire is .077" music wire. This is large enough for safe operation and thin enough to be flexible for shock absorption after the tail wheel touches on roll out.

The first add on is the stooge hook itself which I make from .047" music wire. It is laced to the tailwheel strut with copper serving wire. There is an extra precaution here. If you look close, you may see that the top of the stooge wire above the solder joint is bent to form a small "hook". The thrust of large engines and the day to day flexing of the stooge hook joint eventually breaks the solder joint between the stooge hook and the tailwheel strut. The soldered serving wire wrapping is unharmed but the joint is loosened enough that the stooge hook can rotate slightly around the tailwheel strut. The hook on the top of the stooge above the solder joint prevents the stooge wire from slipping down through the solder joint and getting loose. In practice, this happens with regularity and is considered safe for continued use to finish a flying session. The hook can rotate slightly but it can't possibly get loose. The repair is to simply reheat the solder joint when I get home.

The next addition to the tailwheel strut is a .035" braided safety wire (leadout cable) which is securely attached at it's top end to the tailwheel plywood mount inside the airplane. From the mount, the safety wire runs down the tailwheel strut, under the stooge hook soldered bindings, and is finally attached to the stooge hook itself behind the tailwheel axle. This safety wire is bound to the tailwheel strut at several places with a few wire wraps and soldered for appearance only. If the tailwheel wire were to break, this safety wire between the tailwheel mount and stooge hook would restrain the airplane. The tailwheel strut, stooge hook, and safety wire are all together in that main solder joint above the wheel axle. The safety wire and stooge hook are additionally soldered together behind the axle.

The safety device not shown is the tailwheel mount restraint which is part of the aircraft structure. Before the bottom sheeting is installed over the bottom of the fuselage, a foot long tow of Kevlar is wrapped several times around the tailwheel strut where it leaves the mount. The two 6" ends of this tow are run forward along the fuselage bottom longeron toward the wing and is glued to both the bottom longeron and sheeting. This is to insure that a structurally damaged tailwheel mount can not pull out of the fuselage. This feature weighs practically nothing as the sheeting has to be glued to the bottom longeron anyway, but add greatly to the ability of the tailwheel mount to resist the very strong thrust of large engines.

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LAST, AND MOST IMPORTANT! All of the safety devices in the world do absolutely no good if I fail to use them. The very first preflight step I take when arriving at the field, and between flights, is to attach the airplane to the stooge. Then the lines are attached and run out. The airplane fueled. Battery power is not applied to the plug until the stooge is visually checked while moving the airplane enough to insure that it is truly engaged. Then, and only then, power is applied to the plug and the starter picked up to begin another flight of a semi-scale stunt ship.

If your model flying is stooge based, appreciate that it is inherently dangerous, particularly with large, powerful models. Safe stooge operations can be routinely done with safety only when extreme care is used in installing a strong restraint system and adhering rigidly to safe operating practices at the circle.

When joined at my site by fellow stunt flying friends, I still prefer to stooge launch. My stooge has never failed, in many thousands of flights, to give safe and predictable launches. Launches by friends have not proven to be as reliable.

Al

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Randy Powell · Jul 23, 2008 12:17 PM

#1 source

Al,

You clearly have the wrong friends.

I use a similar system. Of particular use is the little hook at the top of the stooge wire. It's saved me several times.

Good article.

LeagueCityRalph · Jul 23, 2008 12:30 PM

edited#2 source
Really excellent description of Stooge Wire construction, Al. My only significant deviation from your setup is that I make the Stooge Wire the primary (continuous), and solder the Tailwheel axle to that. I consider the Stooge Wire to be more critical, because I only use it when flying alone.

Also, my first test of the Stooge Release for any new plane is done with a helper, who first releases the plane before I trip the stooge release. Just a savfety check.


Ralph Wenzel

4 shipp · Jul 23, 2008 05:18 PM

edited#3 source
My perfect stooge would have vertical posts that rotated from the horizontal to the vertical perpendicular to the fuse and just in front of the horizontal stab. They would look similar to the two-post stooges we've seen written about here before, but the posts would rotate to the sides versus forward. They would not be used for the actual release but as a safety stop that must be manually lowered prior to launch.

These posts would be in vertical position for starting and would prevent the plane from moving should the stooge or stooge wire fail. After the engine was started and adjusted, the pilot could move to the rear of the airplane and rotate them to the horizontal position. The airplane would then be free to release from the stooge in the normal manner. Best of all, the risk of an accidental release while the pilot is in front of the lane is greatly reduced.

perretar · Jul 23, 2008 06:17 PM

#4 source
I also fly solo more times than not and use a stooge a lot. I have gone thru several revisions on my stooge connection, making chages with each new model to keep the components light and bullet proof. On my latest design my goal was to eliminate the connection between the tailwheel wire and the stooge loop wire. My stooge wire is made from .039" but it is a double arrangement that goes all the way up to the structure independent of tailwheel wire. I have it wrapped (daycron thread & epoxy) to the tailwheel wire as a backup. Both the stooge double wire and tailwheel wire are anchored into a removable hatch that also serves as access to elevator horn connection and tailweight box. The hatch has a piece of 1/16" ply running its full length to carry the load to the two 4-40 mounting screws. The mounting screws mate into blind nuts also in plywood between fuse sides and then covered by bottom sheeting. The assembly you see in the pictures is 16 grams. I am happy with it for now, but I have a better idea for the next version that I think will both look better and reduce weight. Last thing I do before I connect the battery is to hook two fingers around prop blades and pull about 5-10 lbs. to make sure I am latched into stooge and nothing is ready to break. One additional precaution I take is to stake the control handle to the ground. I use a large screwdriver, stick it in ground at slight angle and put the handle's safety lanyard on it. With the lanyard on the down side of handle, should something fail before I get to the handle, this will keep model from going outside of circle and should also cause full down as soon as lines get tension; which will waste a prop for sure but should keep plane from getting airborne. No I have not tested that last part. Comments, suggestions welcomed.

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russell shaffer · Jul 23, 2008 10:25 PM

#7 source
That is a very good idea about staking the safety thong. I will start doing that. I've thought more than once about what would happen if the plane got loose on my way to the handle.
Russell Shaffer
Klamath Falls, Oregon
Just north of the California border on Highway 97

Larry Fernandez · Jul 23, 2008 06:46 PM

#5 source
I find it no fun at all to fly by myself. The Very best thing about this hobby, are the people associated with it.
I cant wait till Saturday morning.

Larry,NorCal Circle Jerks

Howard Rush · Jul 23, 2008 07:22 PM

#6 source
If I could just stop composing JCT poems, I might still have some friends. Looks like stooges for awhile, though.

Help the JCT
To spread the word.
If the first two are good,
You don't need a third.

Howard Rush
Bellevue, WA

Al Rabe · Jul 31, 2008 02:47 PM

edited#8 source
>I find it no fun at all to fly by myself. The Very best thing
>about this hobby, are the people associated with it.
>I cant wait till Saturday morning.
>
>Larry,NorCal Circle Jerks

Larry,

Nobody ever said that intensive practice for competition is fun. Its work. In fact, other flyers are in the way when you need to get in a specific amount of practice or putting up consecutive flights to diagnose and work around mechanical or trim problems.

Saturday flyers aren't usually competitive at the highest levels. I used to make my own fuel and used a 55 gal and 30 gal drums of methanol each year. You can't burn that much fuel taking turns on Saturdays.

On the other hand, now that I don't compete, I find that flying for fun is my only model recreation and have no objection to sharing the circle with friends. Its all a matter of goals and perspective.

Also, my parking lot is only 10 minutes away, and the pit area is in shadowed after about 6:00 PM by trees to the West. Local model flyers tend to congregate in Hobby Park 24 miles away and fly there early in the day before Texas heat makes flying unbearable. Since retiring, I don't do early in the day.

Since I fly mostly alone, my emphasis now is in making sure that I don't get hurt in the process.

Al

Chucky · Jul 31, 2008 05:24 PM

#9 source
I fly almost exclusively from stooge launches at my R/C club's control line circle and have experienced just about every kind of stooge and attachment point failure imaginable. Some great ideas have been posted, but nothing I've seen negates the fact that no human-made mechanism, no matter how carefully constructed, is fool-proof. Ask NASA how they know.

I believe that stooge launches are inherently less safe than a human-assisted launch and cannot be made otherwise. For that reason, there is no substitute for a thorough pre-flight inspection and test of the equipment. Size doesn't matter much. Sure, the big planes put more stress on the system, but you ain't gonna care when that 9x4 on that pukey profile is eating you alive.

Before each launch, take the brief time necessary to inspect and test the release system for proper operation. Lock the plane in the stooge, and pull test the entire assembly. Then test the release to make sure it is smooth and reliable when you pull on the lanyard. This will minimize the likelihood of getting into that hideous situation where you pull the release and nothing happens -- what do you do? Is it gonna let go while I'm walking back to the stooge? You don't even want to go there.

If anything about the release system is improper, don't risk the flight. If it can't be resolved at the field, get another club member to give you a launch or do something else. It's not worth it.
Chucky

Royde26434 · Aug 01, 2008 12:48 AM

#10 source
Well Chucky, you sure look a lot like De Hill!!!
Roy DeCamara

Chucky · Aug 01, 2008 07:33 PM

#16 source
Roy,

It's the closest thing I could find in the gallery. 'Bout the same age (give or take 10) and that's about all.
Chucky

floatplane · Aug 01, 2008 07:37 AM

#11 source
Maybe I'm a touch paranoid, but I do have concerns about depending on the sole security of a tail wheel assembly to retain the model.
The stooge I constructed is made on an old 'worn out' cutting board and some dowel, foam and hinges obtained from our local hardware store and secured to the ground by three 200mm tent pegs - and it works just fine, restraining the model via the tailplane assembly.
PS, this idea came from this "fine" forum.
Have fun, Tony.

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Ringmaster1947 · Aug 01, 2008 03:04 PM

#12 source
I use the same kind of stooge.

Mike

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Randy Powell · Aug 01, 2008 03:49 PM

#13 source
>>Its all a matter of goals and perspective.<<

Truer words were never spoken. I do both. Fly by myself when, as Al points out, I am trimming or preparing for a contest. And with friends on the weekend for fun.


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Some days it seems like a coin toss between George Orwell and Monty Python...

perretar · Aug 01, 2008 05:28 PM

#14 source
Looks like your set releases one side ahead of the other. Is that right, does that work OK ??

Allan Perret

Chucky · Aug 01, 2008 07:30 PM

#15 source
Floatplane, that's a great lookin' stooge. I totally agree with the idea of using existing aircraft structure to restrain the plane. As reported by our host in another thread, Windy uses a similar device when soloing. No aircraft mods required!

Thanks,
Chucky

Perry Rose · Aug 02, 2008 06:27 AM

#17 source
I have used all the above stoodge designs and settled on the loop around the tail. I didn't like carrying the extra equipment and setting it up. I fixed a short piece of aluminum channel to my field box and tied one end of the loop (550 cord or parachute cord) to an eye bolt screwed to the flight box and a loop in the loose end to be installed in the channel and held in place with a pin. I set up wide of the circle so I don't hit the box on landing.
Perry Rose