Wet Sanding rustoleum

I`m painting a slow rat racer with Rustoleum and is the first time I use this type of paint. I used SIG nitrate which I allowed to degass for a while and gave it a coat of painters touch white primer.I would like to know if there are any adverse effects to wet sanding the primer and later on the Rustoleum paint.They advise dry sanding for wood and wet for metal. I`m going to cover the wings with monokote.Thanks.
Juan

[photo not recovered: 29806.jpg]


[photo not recovered: 29807.jpg]

Attachment #1, (jpg file)
Attachment #2, (jpg file)

Juan,
I used the gray Rustoleum automotive primer and wet sanded it. That seemed to work fine, as long as I used fine enough grit so it wouldn't show thru the topcoat. I don't know if the white primer would work out the same. I let the sanded plane dry out thoroughly before applying the top coat. I didn't have much luck wet sanding or polishing the color coat. For my sport planes, I didn't need a perfect finish anyway. If you are going to try it, I suggest that you leave your painted plane out in the sun at least 3-4 days to really get a full cure first. You could mask off any MonoKote to protect it during this "UV bake."

I did not use dope underneath, so have no info on that aspect. I would take care to keep fuel and greasy hands off the paint, as the paint seems to loose the shiny finish after a year or two. The next step is that it can become somewhat gummy. This was on 1/2A planes using 25% nitro. The biggest durability issue is that you cannot let fuel get under the paint. The paint will then start to lift. The paint must be continuous or have sealed edges.

Nice looking plane. Good luck!

Dave Hull
LA_Flyer

I never use any type of dope under Rustoleum. I like to use a finishing resin or epoxy. I also like to film cover up to the fuselage so the fillet flows out over the film about an 1/8". Then the paint extends past the fillet about another 1/16".

Rust-o-leum is an enamel. They are hard to sand, not designed for it. You may be able to wet sand with 600-1500 grit paper if you need to remove a run or something. Progressively sanding going to as fine as 1500 grit should get it smooth enough for rubbing out and waxing.

Best bet is to get the plane scrupulously clean and apply the final coat to a thin, wet finish. Then hit it with a heat gun lightly as soon as the paint is on to get it to flow out. heating the can to 120 deg. F or so will help too.

Hello All and Thanks for the advice.I will stick to dry sanding and I will let it dry for about a week after I paint it.The temperature locally has been in the ninetys so I hope it will cure well. I`m not in a rush to fly the plane if I notice that the finish is sticky I will give it more time.
Juan

There are some good articles in archives re painting with Rustoleum. Basically, shake it a lot, shake it some more, then keep shaking. Also, it needs to go on warm. I use an oven that I am familiar and comfortable with but others use hot water, heat gun etc.
Rustoleum grey auto primer wet sands beautifully. This is over sealing/filling coats of nitrate dope and is ready to paint in an hour or less.
Two dry coats, 15 minutes or so apart, then a final cover coat being sure to let it flow together and gloss.
Curing in the sun helps to cut the final cure time of three days or so but do not put inside a vehicle in the sun during the hot Oklahoma sun. It will blister(also the vehicle will stink). Guess how I know.
Jim

I found that two weeks was needed for Rustoleum colors to dry before being set enough to not "creep" when handling or exposing to fuel. Ditto on the sanding the primer, works very well.

don Burke
Menifee, CA
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming, WOO HOO, What a Ride!