Returning to the air, any advice?

Hi everyone. Well, I haven't flown in nearly seven years, but I'll tell that tale later.

First, here is what I'm working with. I have a George Aldrich Special (Profile Nobler-ish) with a OS FP 35 on it. 50 inch wingspan with flaps. It has flown very well in the past and is (or was) fairly well trimmed. I've checked all the bolts, hinges, etc from nose to tail and everything is looking good. I flushed the tank with rubbing alcohol and made sure that I have no leaks and replaced the fuel lines. I have put a few drops of sewing machine oil in the motor and a fresh glow plug.

I *think* I'm good to go. I'll be burning a few tanks on the ground at first.

But, I have a few questions:

What is the recommended RPM range on the ground? For the life of me, I can't recall. Can someone give me a basic range assuming a 10x6 prop?

Also, any recommendations on refiring this engine after it has set idle for so long?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

Fuel tanks dont "store" well if not prepped properly. Flushing is good, but doesnot always remove all the "stuff".
Adding a filter to the fuel line is highly recommended.
Better yet, if not sure of tank condition, replace it with a new one (much cheaper than a new plane)

Thanks Roger.

I do have a filter in place.

The tank had to be hand made to accomodate the dimensions, so I'll hope for the best.

While I'm thinking of it, is the fuel pickup supposed to be a bit above or below the venturi? I think a bit above, right?

This ought to be interesting...

So many things to try and remember [photo not recovered: shocked.gif]

?
>
>This ought to be interesting...
>
>So many things to try and remember [photo not recovered: shocked.gif]


Tell me about it!! I have been away for forty years, so I have to unlearn some things, remember some things, and WOW, have I got a lot of new stuff to learn. But I'm ready,, come on Spring!!!



Rog aka: 66ragman aka: ROF aka: several other non endearing names per Mrs. 66ragman

What sort of ship are you going to fly in the spring?

As a new guy who returned less than two years ago the only thing I would recommend is see how long you can spin in circle and then only add enough fuel for that long of a flight! Basic flight did not leave me after a 30 year hiatus, but my ability to spin for 5-8 minutes did! LOL

And flush your filter after EVERY run with that tank that has been sitting or is brand new (I have had more junk come out new tanks as I have ones that sat in a drawer for 30 years)

"........ is brand new (I have had more junk come
>out of new tanks........for 30 years.

True!
New tanks can be very dirty.
Have had success filling new new tanks (before installing in plane) with acetone (also have used 50/50 acetone/thinner), letting them soak for about an hour, immersed in very hot water bath. Then shake hard and drain solution. You will be surprised at what comes out of a new tank (fl /) and ??. Repeat two or three times until drained solution is clear. I use an old syringe, real easy to look at the solution and see contamination if it is there. I then fill tank with fuel to get some "castor" on the inside surfaces, shake and drain and install on model. Always use filter in fuel line on model. Works for me!

>What sort of ship are you going to fly in the spring?


I have put together an armada of "Stuff". I should be able to get through a couple of weeks of relearning with:
1) Ringmaster (new style) with a Mac .35 RH
1) Shoestring (old kit) with Fox .29
1) Super Clown (old rebuild) Fox .35
1) Super Ringmaster (old rebuild) Torp .35
1) Magician 35 (old kit) Fox Rocket .35 RH
1) Modified Akromaster (new kit) Fox .19


Rog aka: 66ragman aka: ROF aka: several other non endearing names per Mrs. 66ragman

You might want to pull the back plate and make sure the rod isn't stuck to the wristpin. This is not uncommon in engines that have sat for several years. If it is stuck and you run the engine, the piston hole becomes the bearing surface and will quickly egg out.

If you heat the case with a monokote heat gun before removing the back plate you might even be able to save and reuse the gasket.

Don't fly into anything harder than it .
That includes pitboxes, fuel cans, trees, and anything else placed on or growing out of the ground- and the latter above all.


Jake

>Don't fly into anything harder than it .
>That includes pitboxes, fuel cans, trees, and anything else
>placed on or growing out of the ground- and the latter above
>all.


Heh-heh. I'll certainly keep that in mind.

I hope to fire the bird up later today and hit the flying field Saturday. Once I find one that is

Tom,

Are you the guy who flew at a very special place, covered in one of our favorite magazines?

I'd wondered where you'd got to...

WELCOME BACK!!, even if I guessed wrong...

>Tom,
>
>Are you the guy who flew at a very special place, covered in
>one of our favorite magazines?


Quilty as charged!

Hi Lou! Long story, but I'm baaaaaccckkkk...

My advice is do it but remember it is addictive. I am also now a slave to modeling

Personally, I would remove that fresh plug put in an old one that works. then fire up the engine and burn the preservative oil out of it, then replace the plug with a fresh one. No sense contaminating a new plug.

>My advice is do it but remember it is addictive. I am also
>now a slave to modeling

As one who in recent months returned to c/l I agree and will add this as my list:

1. Go Fly
2. Go Fly Often
3. Go Fly As Much As You Can
4. Go Fly
5. Buy your next plane (see advice in quotes above)


ps - no need to do the above in that order

>>My advice is do it but remember it is addictive. I am
>also
>>now a slave to modeling
>
>As one who in recent months returned to c/l I agree and will
>add this as my list:
>
>1. Go Fly
>2. Go Fly Often
>3. Go Fly As Much As You Can
>4. Go Fly
>5. Buy your next plane (see advice in quotes above)
>
>
>ps - no need to do the above in that order

Few things to add

>6. ask a bunch of questions
>7. read a lot of stuff

All kidding aside the thing that helped me the most and I mean this is finding someone who is an active c/l pilot to help me. Besides the aid he can give it is simply more fun to fly with someone else.

I don't have a .35FP, but I'd bet $ that a (any) 10-6 prop is NOT even close to ideal. Sorry I can't recommend something better. Maybe somebody else can suggest a better slicer & dicer? Then too, is the engine a stock .35FP, or maybe one of Leonard's SSW reworks? Those typically turn a 12-5...(!). Steve

Steve Helmick
Renton, Washington
USA

Magic prop--APC 10 1/2 X 4 1/2 Ground release rpm--10200-10500

The APC 10.5 x 4.5...Probably what I'd have tried, Gary. Thanks! That or a Thunder Tiger Cyclone 11 x 4.5 ...they work on lots of popular engines. The Cyclone is conventional looking, for those traditionalists who hate APC's dagger blades, pretty light, and inexpensive.

Most modern engines seem to like that 10k rpm range for our purposes, including .40/.46LA's, Magnum XLS .36's, and ST G.51's. A safe place to start, IF there is at least 1,000rpm extra to be had by leaning the NV. This means that you're not "bog lean", which would indicate that your prop is too much load. So, be prepared to clip the tips and rebalance. I like to try to replicate the OEM tip shape, which isn't all that difficult. All this suggests a tachometer is handy, which it is. I'm a fan of the Hanger 9 micro tacho...small, reliable and a good price at under $30 last I saw. Steve

Steve Helmick
Renton, Washington
USA

I do have a 35FP. If the plane is small, a wide blade 10-6 will work fine. They will turn a bigger prop if necessary.

as u can see by the responses u have come to the right place.there is a welth of knoledge here and these guys are very glad to share it.
tight lines
dave in ct.