Top Flite Tutor II

I ordered the ARF Tutor 2 last week, picked it up today. Price is right. Box was light. Then I opened it. Very well packed. Lots of plastic bags. Nice stick on decals if you like that sort of thing, I don't. I'll use them as guides for Japanese tissue trim.
The bicycle spoke push rods are a joke. Tossed them. Tossed the plastic clevises. First I pulled off the monocote off every thing. Good thing I did on the so called fuselage. The motor mounts are not hard maple. They aren't even hard. The outside ply doubler was not attached very well as I could slide,with no effort, my #26 blade under most of it. The motor mount was not epoxied to it either. In fact the bottom motor mount is sort of "just there". There is no balsa under the bottom motor mount, just air. Repeat, it is hollooooowww. ????. The fuselage balsa meets the mount, but is not glued to it. The top balsa on the motor mount is a series of four balsa fillers, none on which is glued to the other. Why?? I have never seen a profile quite like this. Even the Flite Streak is better than this, and it needs help. I have done or repaired three of those things.
The lead outs are heavy wire, looks like 7 strand .021". But the way they connected them leaves much doubt as to how long before they flex and break. They look like my first leadouts in 1954. Not very well done. Do replace these and use wire wrapping vs the crimping they come with. Bell crank looks OK.

The bare fuselage from the side appears to be a Warhawk P40 C minus a canopy. Big hint to make it a little different from a stock Tutor 2.
Just make a new Rudder/fin. Nice balsa in those, but too much off set in the rudder. Straighten that out. Stab is built up, very light. Elevators are solid but very light.
Everything looks true, straight, and it is light. A .35 would fly this thing. The motor holes are not all the way through, but are started from both sides and an OS.46 LA-S fits perfectly. They do reccomend a .40 or larger engine. I agree. I was impressed with the size of the wing compared to my only other Tutor I built in 1979 while at Memphis NATTC. Once I get it built, er, assembled and recovered in silkspan or polyspan, painted, etc I'll update these severe comments.
I like the plastic tank and the spinner supplied was a nice touch.

The wheels are best for grass fields, not unlike the biggies on the ARF Nobler.

I have mine almost done also, have the covering wrinkles taken out. used heat gun on whole plane along with heat iron. I ordered ball links for mine from Tom Morris. LA 40 you think ok for this plane ?
When mounting the rudder seems to need some beef-up back there just sort of glued on in 2 spots not much there, maybe some sort of small balsa placed along the edges where it mounts to the fuse ?

Steve

HI Steve. If you can peel some of the monocoat away from the stern post, you will see an insert. It looks like balsa ply, but the insert only goes into the tail about 1/4 inch. Rather different from anything I've ever seen. The rudder fin assembly is rather light. So I would just glue it on using Ambroid or Sigment and make two spares. That is why I also go by Rudderless, been there, done that. Ha. It might be best if the rudder just broke off in a rough landing and then you could just glue it back on. Don't use any CA here, as it makes it hard to reglue in the field. I would also make a spare stab/elevator assembly. These too are very light and prone to extreme damage. Very light and soft wood in them.
An OS .40 LA-S should do the job. Since you retained the monocote, it is a light plane. However, from my experience with thast engine and the .46 version, I'd much rather do the .46, unless of course you are flying in "P40" events. An 11 x 5 should do the trick, 10% nitro 22% oil (11% castor=11% synthetic) at 10,000 rpm at launch. I would use eye to eye, 65 foot .015 lines with the .40. I fly three profiles with this set up and I am doing much better in my pattern as I have full tension in all maneuvers, lap times are about 5.2 to 5.3 and I get through the pattern and about 8 laps after the 4 leaf. This is the way I do it and it works for me. Now one hundred guys will come on and do it different, but that's them. Your mileage may vary. ha ha.
The ball links are the way to go. Toss those silly plastic clevis units. I wouldn't even use them on 1/2A. Keep an eye on the bellcrank leadouts. The double wrap looks good, but I bet you will see them wear rather fast. Nice they put in an inspection hatch.

Hi
Did you change the bellcrank in yours ? As for the control wire, it does look pretty weak. I havent mounted the wing to the fuse yet, got as far as getting the monocote tight. I'll take alook at the rear fuse where the stab mounts. Does seem weak also. The ends of my leadouts I think should maybe be redone also, little fray ends hanging out. As for motor choice was tossing few choices out there, Have LA 40, OS FP40 and OS FP 35 hanging around for many years havent been run, except for the 35 ran maybe 2 flights and put it in the ground on a twister I had 15 years ago. Havent done any flying since. Trying to get going again, more time on hand now the older girls in college and other things. Son 10 wants to fly so trying to find something easy for him to learn on. I also have a ARF Nobler that has had the covering shrunk down. More to come on that plane.
You recommend 65 feet eye to eye ? Great I'll order some lines in such over next few days. Got lot of snow here last couple days so no flying around here right now.

Ty
Did you do anything different then what they tell you in the book with the gas tank ? Or is that ok like they say to set it up ?

HI Steve. I haven't ever read the book yet. Since I am making changes the book will not apply. Typical, right, who needs instructions LOL. I don't like the way the tank is supposed to be tie wrapped. That prevents any vertical adjustments. If it can't be moved, it will need to be moved. If if it can be moved, it won't need to be moved. Murphy law # 76. For info, I use a Sullivan 5 oz clunk tank, round, set up for uniflow, on my Imitation. Works perfectly. The OS .46 LA-S uses every drop and most flights are within a few seconds of 7 minutes.

I will be changing the leadouts. The installed bellcrank is ok, but needs to be bushed or the leadouts strung through brass tubes at the crank. I tossed the bicycle spokes and will be using carbon fiber tubes and ball links for the control system.
Of those three engines, I would use the .40 LA or the .35 FP. I'm not sure why, but two of use find the OS .35 FP to run better than the .40 FP. Might just be coincidence or better heat distribution due to the slightly thicker cylinder liner. Or we just got good .35s. If you can, have your son build a Top Flight Streak Trainer, now sold by Brodaks. It is a solid wing version, builds quick, great for primary flight. Then I would have him build either a Buster or Shoestring Stunter for advanced learning. These are also put out by Brodak and are much better versions then the early Goldbergs. RSM also sells a version called the Miss Sarah, which is actually a Goldberg Cosmic Wind. What ever one you choose, let him build them. I would not try him out on an ARF yet. Building skills and the satifaction of flying something he built is a great motivator. I did this with my three youngsters and they loved it. It was "their" plane and Dad didn't help much. I guided them, but they did 99% of the work. NOt a BOM thing, just the way I prefered they do it.

I changed the belcrank in mine and used sullivan leadouts. I used the stock landing gear and used my own pushrods. It flies pretty good with the LA40 but I like the 46 better. The leadout guides on mine were stuck and had to be freed up to adjust. I think I would rather build one than rebuild one. Nice plane though.

Hi, Guess I'll put my 2 cents here in regards to my Tutor 2. I'm a sport flyer who learned the pattern a few years back on the original tutor with a fox 35. When I downloaded the video of this model from the Tower sight, I knew I had to have one! I teemed it up with an OS 46LA. I removed the monocoat from the fuse and applied white dope. I also used an older style FP muffler, 1oz. lighter, with a 1/4 hole drilled in it to lessen back pressure. The rest is all stock, including the control system(ok, stop groaning now!!). I'll add a better pushrod setup down the road. 11-5 prop, 10% Omega fuel with castor added . 60' lines.
Off to the park I go for a few test flights. My first flight in a few years! No sun, No wind, No one to bother me!!! It was perfect!! As with my other OS FP engines, I was prepared to do battle to get a good engine run. Different glow plugs, props, mufflers, head gaskets, ventures etc. on hand.
The results, Unbelievable! In one word "user-friendly". That 46LA in one sweet running motor. I gave it about 4 tank fulls on the bench and it loosened right up. First flight, I had a one flip start in 45 degree temps. That was the norm for the rest of the day. I used the remote needle which gave a nice range of engine speed. Best of all, engine speed held constant throughout the run. Only minor problem is this engine is thirsty, don't know if I can get a full pattern in on 5oz.
As far as the plane goes, again user-friendly. Tip weight is about right, Line tension good all around. I used the suggested settings for the control system which seemed just about right. Overall a great flying plane. I did 6 flights and exceeded all my expectations. I did most of the maneuvers except the hourglass, vertical eight and clover. It seems I'm back in the saddle. Watch out Flushing, here I come!!
Chris

Chris glad to hear you are back, look forward to seeing you in Flushing.I have a Tutor II also.See YA NEAL.

My La 46 started thirsty also. It went from 5.5 ounces/pattern new to about 4.5 ounces when it had 25 flights on it. I ran a 12-4, a 11-5 and a 11-6 on it anf finally settled on zinger 12-4 as the "rigt prop"

Aircraft was a large profle with 650 square inches of wing.

Similar in size to a tutor II. Love that LA 46. Great engine for Tutor II and the Cardinal profile and similar sized ships.

Jerry Raimo

Hi Ty,

How does the flight characteristics compare to the TEOSAWKI and Imitation? I am guessing they are about the same "size".

Big Bear <><
Character: It's what you do when no one else is watching.

HI Bill. Sorry for the late answer, but missed the post. My Tutor 2 is still in the painting stage. Been flying my scratch or plans built Cardinal bunch. Found a twist in the fuselage of the Cardinal, causing a tilt in the stab. No wonder it flys like it did. Fixed that. I will be doing some painting today on the Tutor 2. Later, Ty

Today I was able to finally get in a test flight on my modified ARF Tutor 2. Wings covered in silkspan, OS .46 LA-S with an 11 nx 5 for first flight, 11 x 4 for second flight. .018 x 62' lines ,eye to eye. Once we gbot it airborne afeter the first attempt was a flip over in the too tall grass, (**&&^%), it was very strong on line tension, floated in the outsides, only did two, outboard wing hanging low while upright and high while inverted. Too much yaw, too fast in lap times. BIG inside loops.
Second flight, 11 x 4 to slow it down a tad, tweaked the flaps, moved the lines forward 1/4". Good thing I modified the leadout sliders so they could. Launched in the dead grass area, nice takeoff, much better insides and outsides. Still needs to have the lines a tad more forward. Boy does that thing pull. Pulls me off my feet, almost, and I weigh 200 +. (Don't ask). The fule tank is a uniflow steel wedge, 4.5 oz. Only used 4 oz for test flight and it still flew forever. Or so it seems. All i all, very nice. Not as nice as the TEOSAWKI nor the Imitation. But close. Once I get it trimmed, it will be up there with them. I would rate it, not being an advanced nor expert flyer, as 3 out of 3 I have, the Cardinal ARC 2, and #1 the Sig Primary Force. The Primary Force is smaller and lighter and out of the box the best of the three. BUT all three need to have their leadouts modified to make them last. That simple. No ifs, buts, what evers or howevers. Oh and it landed itself. I was so happy, as landings are not my thing.