I am presently in the middle of a TF Score for a customer and have some observations that may help you. As I complete the plane I will update this.
The first thing I do is look at the bell crank. The lead outs are too short to turn the bell crank around and put the up line as the lead line. It also has only a three inch BC and the instructions say to put the push rod in the far outside hole. Lead-outs are cable double wrapped through the bell crank and crimped. I don't think strength will be an issue. The lead outs are individually adjustable. The Bell crank is made of pretty hard material and is similar to the old Veco/Fox units with a brass bushing. It is mounted with a metric bolt about the size of a 6-32.
CA hinges are included in the kit but I updated to barrel hinges. I would have used the flap push rod but it is 3/8 inch too short. The wing also has stops that limit the bell crank movement and on this one you could get 30 one way and only 25 the other so I had to do some carving to get 30 both ways. The wing was straight and the flaps were also. The flap horn needed to be tweaked to have them in the same plane but it was very close as it came.
This plane is designed as a take apart but my customer doesn't want that. I did use the dowels and screws to test fit the wing and although it is close it is not as good as the Nobler. The clearance for the flap horn is in the wrong place and is too tight. I had to file about 1/4" notch to make that work smoothly. The bottom fuselage filler also does not fit perfectly and when test fitted was about 1/16th above the fuselage both in front and back. The fuselage to wing fitting has a few gaps but if you are going to glue it, it is acceptable. The bottom piece doesn't fit well at all.
Flap to elevator push rod is kind of a neat concept. Aluminum 3/8 tube with some kind of nylon/silicone/plastic insert. Push rods that are intended to be screwed into this are 1/16th and one of them is about 8 inches long. One is threaded one one end and then a Z bend on the other. The other is threaded both ends and intended for a clevis connection. This would allow for very easy adjustment of the elevator throw because the plane also has HUGE access plates under the stab. But I'm sorry, 1/16th wire for push rods is a bit much on this size plane. I put a ball link on the flap horn and made a carbon fiber PR for the elevator.
MM instructions: Beware!!! Follow the instructions. This is designed for engine offset. They use RC type beam mounts and they are cast/built to do just that. I am so used to building zero offset for mounting engines that I thought it was an error in the instructions. NOT! But is sure looks funny when you mark the holes.
The covering had some bubbles/wrinkles in it and I thought that would be no bigger problem than it was with the Nobler. WRONG! I did everything I know to do and actually wound up making it look worse. I can make my Nobler look pretty good but this one is not cooperating.
I am not slamming this kit/plane. I saw Mike Greb fly one last weekend at Houston and it performed very well. What I am trying to point out is that if you want a for sure competitive plane there are some things to watch out for. I think a newbie could put this plane together without a lot of problems and probably have a plane he/she was pleased with but the short flap push rod and 1/16 elevator push rod are issues that need to be addressed or you are going to have some big problems. (IMHO)
Finished up yesterday and was very pleased with the way the plane bolts together. Wing and Stab are perfectly aligned and I didn't have to do anything to get it there. Needed the Stock ST .51 muffler to make it balance at the suggested CG location on the instructions. All up weight RTF is 66 1/2 ounces which makes the wing loading 14.2 oz/ft.
Later, John
The first thing I do is look at the bell crank. The lead outs are too short to turn the bell crank around and put the up line as the lead line. It also has only a three inch BC and the instructions say to put the push rod in the far outside hole. Lead-outs are cable double wrapped through the bell crank and crimped. I don't think strength will be an issue. The lead outs are individually adjustable. The Bell crank is made of pretty hard material and is similar to the old Veco/Fox units with a brass bushing. It is mounted with a metric bolt about the size of a 6-32.
CA hinges are included in the kit but I updated to barrel hinges. I would have used the flap push rod but it is 3/8 inch too short. The wing also has stops that limit the bell crank movement and on this one you could get 30 one way and only 25 the other so I had to do some carving to get 30 both ways. The wing was straight and the flaps were also. The flap horn needed to be tweaked to have them in the same plane but it was very close as it came.
This plane is designed as a take apart but my customer doesn't want that. I did use the dowels and screws to test fit the wing and although it is close it is not as good as the Nobler. The clearance for the flap horn is in the wrong place and is too tight. I had to file about 1/4" notch to make that work smoothly. The bottom fuselage filler also does not fit perfectly and when test fitted was about 1/16th above the fuselage both in front and back. The fuselage to wing fitting has a few gaps but if you are going to glue it, it is acceptable. The bottom piece doesn't fit well at all.
Flap to elevator push rod is kind of a neat concept. Aluminum 3/8 tube with some kind of nylon/silicone/plastic insert. Push rods that are intended to be screwed into this are 1/16th and one of them is about 8 inches long. One is threaded one one end and then a Z bend on the other. The other is threaded both ends and intended for a clevis connection. This would allow for very easy adjustment of the elevator throw because the plane also has HUGE access plates under the stab. But I'm sorry, 1/16th wire for push rods is a bit much on this size plane. I put a ball link on the flap horn and made a carbon fiber PR for the elevator.
MM instructions: Beware!!! Follow the instructions. This is designed for engine offset. They use RC type beam mounts and they are cast/built to do just that. I am so used to building zero offset for mounting engines that I thought it was an error in the instructions. NOT! But is sure looks funny when you mark the holes.
The covering had some bubbles/wrinkles in it and I thought that would be no bigger problem than it was with the Nobler. WRONG! I did everything I know to do and actually wound up making it look worse. I can make my Nobler look pretty good but this one is not cooperating.
I am not slamming this kit/plane. I saw Mike Greb fly one last weekend at Houston and it performed very well. What I am trying to point out is that if you want a for sure competitive plane there are some things to watch out for. I think a newbie could put this plane together without a lot of problems and probably have a plane he/she was pleased with but the short flap push rod and 1/16 elevator push rod are issues that need to be addressed or you are going to have some big problems. (IMHO)
Finished up yesterday and was very pleased with the way the plane bolts together. Wing and Stab are perfectly aligned and I didn't have to do anything to get it there. Needed the Stock ST .51 muffler to make it balance at the suggested CG location on the instructions. All up weight RTF is 66 1/2 ounces which makes the wing loading 14.2 oz/ft.
Later, John
Later, John
