Questions on profile repairs and broken NVA

1) I snapped off a NV on a fox 35 stunt right as it exits the spraybar. There is nothing to grab. How do I get it out?

2) As I learn the pattern, I have been bashing my profiles and brarking them along the sheeting. What is the right way to repair them? It is difficult to splice sheet in righ up to the wing/fuse joint. They seem to break just to one side of the profile and end up along the wing joint. The wing joint is not broke. I have been smearing slow epoxy on the joint and pushing it together. Some of the sheet cannot be saved and the splice is nearly impossible to make. Should I pull the wing out and re sheet it? Is glass cloth a good idea?

I know don't crash will slove it all

Dave.

Personally, I really disliked using Fox NVA's, compared to the Austincraft type that Fox had used at the very beginning, and I threw dozens of Fox's assemblies away, literally, over the 40 years or so since I began keeping Fox engines (I initially would not buy them, and when I acquired them in trades, didn't try to keep or use those that passed through my hands, but that was only as long as I was still just a callow youth, and I eventually did learn that in spite of homeliness, the Fox was to be respected).

A quick fix for most NVA's with a stub broken off almost flush is cutting a slot with a Dremel cutoff wheel, the smallest size wheel, and then using a tiny "00" size screwdriver to unscrew what is left behind.

To force a profile wing to break outside of the sheeted center area, and thus simplify repairs, DO NOT glue the wing into the fuselage until you cover the wing. Covering products other than iron-on plastic will strengthen the sheeting, but you don't want the silk, silkspan, plyspan, polyspan, or Jap Tissue to start & end outside of the wing to fuselage joint.

Properly applied, some lightweight glass cloth beneath the wing covering will help make a semi-bulletproof center section (cut it in an oval shape), and is the only way to really strengthen that part of the wing when you do use an iron-on plastic film. There was a very informative thread on this subject here in this forum quite recently. You would be well advised to review the older threads to find that one!

(OK, you don't have to plow through the entire list after all! I have just located the thread in question. It's good stuff. Just point your mouse at the next line and click):

(http://www.clstunt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=783&forum=DCForumID1&omm=0&auto_sense=on)

Kiwi

Just get a cheapie set of jeweler's screwdrivers, grab the smallest one, push really hard on the needle stub that is left, and usually it will start turning.

Or just grab anything small, like a drill bit as Nils mentioned, and do the same as above.

Wish I had a dime for every time I had to do this.

The structures thread referenced by Kiwi addresses the issue of the lightest way to build wings to withstand flying loads. Crash loads and repairability are different problems.

However I hadn't though of trying to get the needles out - they came out real easy just by pressing the broken end of the needle into the soft flesh of my thumb and turning!

Brilliant.

Now I only need buy some new needles!