Fillet material

Still searching for a fillet material that spreads as smooth as Mrs. Moran's butter-cream frosting and is as easy to sand as contest balsa. To that end I tried a mixture of zinc stearate and West 105/205 epoxy. Heck, it works great in dope, why not epoxy? Because it won't cure, that's why. Tried two test batches and neither one cured. Does anyone know why this might be (you may safely assume I can mix epoxy properly)?
BTW, I have revisited the West 410 Microlight (phenolic) filler and find that I now prefer it to glass microballoons. The trick is to be certain the epoxy is well cured- at least 24 hours at closed-garage-in-the-summertime temperatures. It sands well, spreads better, has better thixotropic qualities (doesn't slump) and has a finer texture than microballons. With inadequate cure it's a gummy, leathery hassle.
On a slightly different, but related subject, I find that base finishing materials which have contrasting colors are a big help. Colored tissue or silkspan, pigmented filler, primer, etc. These allow you to more accurately gauge your sanding progress.
Derek Moran

Lots of folk are recommending AeroPoxy Lite, available from Tom Morris and Windy. I have a kit but haven't used it yet, so I can't say aye or nay.

LAST EDITED ON Aug-04-04 AT 00:28 AM (CDT)
 
Check this out, you will like it
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/9298.html#20

If you decide to go with the aeropoxy I will tell you where to get it at a resonable price.

After using Aeropoxy Lite I just forgot about other elixers!

When I first ordered mine I bought it from a commercial (Non hobby.) supplier and ended up with a 1 pound can of Resin and a pint sized can of hardner.

I'm still working out of those cans that I bought FIVE YEARS ago. The stuff has never seperated and sets as well now as it did the first day! I'm both amazed and pleased.

Try some. You'll like it!

Make sure you thoroughly mix the two epoxy components PRIOR to adding the 410 (or other filler).

The real trick is to put the fillets down so they only need touch-up sanding. Finish them off with a foam swab wet with alcohol or acetone. THen just a touch with 320-400 when they cure.

The way to go is "Super Fil" by Poly Fiber.

I had many problems with Aeropoxy including the fast setting time.

My friends in Ohio recommended the "Super Fil" and I now will use nothing else.

"Super Fil" is light weight, sands very easily, and has a much longer pot life. Prime it, and everything sticks to it just fine.

It is available at some airport supply houses, or you can get it from Aircraft Spruce (www.aircraftspruce.com)

Size is 1 qt, and larger, which will last a long time or you can share it with someone. It is a 2 to mix. It is a fraction of the cost too!

Everyone that I have recommended it to agrees that it is great stuff.

Like I said... I will never use anything else again!

>The way to go is "Super Fil" by Poly Fiber.
>
>I had many problems with Aeropoxy including the fast setting
>time.
>
>My friends in Ohio recommended the "Super Fil" and I now
>will use nothing else.
>
>"Super Fil" is light weight, sands very easily, and has a
>much longer pot life. Prime it, and everything sticks to it
>just fine.
>
>It is available at some airport supply houses, or you can
>get it from Aircraft Spruce (www.aircraftspruce.com)
>
>Size is 1 qt, and larger, which will last a long time or you
>can share it with someone. It is a 2 to mix. It is a
>fraction of the cost too!
>
>Everyone that I have recommended it to agrees that it is
>great stuff.
>
>Like I said... I will never use anything else again!

Ron B.
F4Fguy

I don't know "Superfil" it may be the best ever,but I've never had a problem with Aeropoxy.If you absolutely insist on something to schmear on, I'd recommend Aeropoxy,but the best,easiest,lightest,easiest sanding,best paint adhering,is still BALSA.

The Aero-Poxy Light works extremely well. At first it scared me as it did not seem to harden like other products I've used. But it does harden completely if mixed thoroughly. Sands and shapes well with plenty of time to work it. And it flows out better than anything else I've used, as well.

I guess the crux of my post is buried in the first paragraph. I was wondering why my properly-mixed high-quality epoxy would not cure when zinc stearate is added.
Ron, you have me well trained. I saw notification of your post and immediately thought "balsa"!
Derek

I to have had problems filet materials. But then a freind recommended Super Fil and it works fantastic. You mix it 2 to 1 and can thin it down with water,thinner,just about anyting. Cures in a couple of hours and sands easily. I buy mine at Spencers aircraft supply at the local airport. Cost is around $15 for enough to last a year or more. Ron C

What do you all think about the "leather" fillet material? I have never used it but am curious....
TIA,
Nick Vanmatre

>What do you all think about the "leather" fillet material?
>I have never used it but am curious....
>TIA,
>Nick Vanmatre

Ron B.
F4Fguy

It works. A lot of people love it. Weigh a piece of leather fillet material,then an equivalent volume of Aeropoxy,and a piece of balsa the same size. You decide.

I use it(them), leather fillets, exclusively on OTS and classics. Also on a few "modern" planes. One piece per wing. Quick and easy. No fumes, no sanding, no fuss, no reaction with dope or any paints. It takes me about three minutes to do one fillet. I preglue with Ambroid, cut the leather to length, add Ambroid in the fillet area, install and using my big fat thumb, smooth it into the fuselage/wing joint. Then I smear a generous film of Ambroid over the leather. Done. Smooth. Neat. Others may do it different but under no circumstances ever never ever use CA glue on leather fillets. Talk about future painting problems and sanding gaffs.

Hi Derek!

I've tried about everything. Aeropoxy is ok. No problem really, but I didnt' care for the consisentcy. But that's just me. A lot of people really like it. I always thought Epoxolite was way too heavy and a pain to sand. I tried a couple of products by tap plastics including Tap "500", a sort of Bondo stuff, but a lot lighter. It's OK, but can be really heavy if your not careful. I've also tried a couple of products based on acrylic lacquer and enamel. Compatabily problems abound. A lot of other stuff at different times, but there were always either consistency problems, adhesion problems or compatability problems to work around.

I have to say that I like the West Systems 105/205 with 410 filler about the best. It's pretty east to sand, easy to get right in the first place. And it's really very light. I use Dolphin Glaze (a catalyzed glazing compound) to fix any boo-boos along the way and have been very happy. I've had zero adhesion problems or compatability issues since going to this. Every thing seems to stick to it without problem.

It makes me happy enough.

Tried mixing zinc sterate with polycrylic? it makes an interesting mixture. Never really mixes completely (and I even tried using an old mixer), but if you can keep the stuff suspended long enough, it's pretty cool.