Decal Paper

Please refresh my memory.
I need decal paper for a printer to print some decals for a project. Too many choices, and he is a business, but he is out of paper. He is into HO RR so he has printed some very nice looking decals in the past.
Need water emulsion paper, and SEVERAL sheets. Also, one set of decals are mostly white markings. Any help there?
I need suggestions quick so that I can return the originals, and have lost all my bookmarks on decal paper.
TIA
Bill <><

Micromark.

Jake

Bill,

I use Micromark too. You can use the "fixative" spray they sell or just use an acrylic clearcoat.

LAST EDITED ON May-09-04 AT 08:42 PM (CDT)
 
http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm
http://www.decalpaper.com/
http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/decal_instruction.html
http://www.micromark.com/

Micromark decal paper work the best. I've use the Bel, but it tends to turn yellow after a while.

You can use Krylon Fixative rather that the one MicroMark sells. It's the same stuff and you can get it are most Art supply stores.

Thanks Guys!
Bill <><

Here's a few:

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/7436.html#9

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/8106.html

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/7385.html#4

Enjoy.

Cy.

I've had good results with decal material from the Bare Metal Foil Co. http://www.bare-metal.com/ It's available in both colourless and white and the white seems to take the ink even better than the other. Locally I find it at hobby shops that cater to the plastic scale model car hobby. I had a little problem with film from Walther, big in the model railroading field. I found that HP ink would not flow properly on it but just kind of ran together in blobs. Black ink was just passable but colour was hopeless. It might have just been local conditions but I'd be a little careful with the Walther material.

Best, Hoovie

I have recently started making decals and have been using the Beldecal paper. I have used both the clear and white and found that both make excellent decals as long as you don't forget the fixative. I only did that once (embarrassing). I use "Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze" (very good so far) The biggest problem that I have is getting light colors to have enough density to appear opaque over darker colors. AND the inkjet printer cannot make white marks on a clear background. Do you know of any tutorial or "Secrets of Decal Making" books or programs?

BLACK HAWK
I carry the paper in both white and clear, I also carry two size kits with the paper and the spray.
Starter kit $16.95
6 sheets
1 spray can
1 instruction sheet

Decal kit $24.95
10 sheets
1 spray can
1 instruction sheet

shipping $6.00

Decal sheets $2.00 each shipping $0.50 on total order.
(562) 728-5661

Can you put fuel proof clear over the fixative or do you need to ??

Sure. I have used clear dope and automotive clearcoat. On the dope, put a few dry coats on before the wet coat(s), or you might melt the decal. Also, I have found that it works best to not quite follow the directions. One set of directions I read said to dampen the surface of the model with the less-powerful type of decal solvent before applying the decal, to make it apply to the surface better, then use the stronger type of solvent on top after it is on. I have found that, for large decals, wetting the surface first will eat the decal from underneath, giving you a really crappy looking decal. Just apply it wet and make sure to work out all the bubbles. Then you can apply the stronger type after it is on and dry. For small decals, it doesn't seem to hurt as much. I think it is a matter of stretching the decal on the larger ones, along with the solvent eating them from underneath. Smaller ones seem to slide around easier. I would like to hear other people's observations on this.